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gblauer
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Nov 8, 2007, 2:08 AM
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We just donated our gear and we are now in the market for a new 70M bi pattern rope and new sport draws.
We use the 70M and the draws for sport climbing (Mexico, New, Red)
What do you recommend? We want a bi pattern rope. Our last rope was a mamut duodess, we found that it seemed to get "fatter" the more we used it.
Thanks for your help...
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carlos_a
Nov 8, 2007, 2:31 AM
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As far as the rope goes I think most company's make a 70M Bipattern, however if you have trouble finding one, I know for sure that New England Rope Company company makes one. As far as draws go, Id say it depends on what your looking for from a draw. Super light, handles well, price, etc etc etc. However if your not picky, then the draws you buy should not require to much thought.
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supersonick
Nov 8, 2007, 2:40 AM
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My favorite two sport ropes are the Mammut Infinty 9.5 and the Maxim (NE Ropes) Pinnacle 9.5. Not sure if they have bi-pattern, but the center is clearly marked on each rope. Do you really need bi-pattern? Anyway both ropes are durable enough for a season of dogging your projects and minimalist enough for hard redpoints.
Draws - hard to do better than Petzl Spirits but everyone's tastes are different.
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omalavet
Nov 8, 2007, 2:46 AM
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the new madrock draws are great not that long but really really lightweight and inexpensive
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thewyseclimber
Nov 8, 2007, 3:29 AM
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I really like my new DMM Prowires. Super light, really nice to clip. A downfall I see is that they snag more easily than some when cleaning, but the nose profile is real slim, so it sort of depends on the bolt hangers. My $.02.
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flint
Nov 8, 2007, 3:36 AM
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Sterling 9.8 bicolor velocity... Amazing rope, great handling, wears like steal cable (last seemigly forever) and if you need customer help, you can not beat the sterling company.
Draws = make you own. I prefer to use the BD keyless Position or Petzl spirt straight gate with a BD Hotwire. I know they make a draw with the BD set up, but I prefer those cheep fatty nylon dog bones they make for my sport draws. Those skinny runners just don't do it for me.
j-
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shockabuku
Nov 8, 2007, 3:48 AM
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Petzl Spirit Express draws in both lengths are my favorite. No snag, very well made, stronger than most other biners although they are considerably heavier than the lightweights out there it probably doesn't matter too much for sport climbing in my opinion.
Ropes I don't know, but I'd stay away from the stolen (steal) ones.^^^^^
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gunkiemike
Nov 8, 2007, 11:03 AM
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If you've been sporting long enough to wear out a set of draws, then you should have developed a preference for draws. The fact that haven't (apparently) tells me that you don't really care what the biners & bones are. In which case my serious answer is "It doesn't matter".
The rope OTOH seems to matter to you. I have had similar experience with the ever-expanding Mammuts. I've enjoyed a BW Lightning 9.7. I love my 9.7 Lanex but I don't think it's available any more.
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gblauer
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Nov 8, 2007, 12:34 PM
Post #10 of 19
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gunkiemike wrote: you don't really care what the biners & bones are. In which case my serious answer is "It doesn't matter".
In a draw I am looking for smooth gate action, non snagging nose, lightweight. The question is do I want the fat spectra dogbones or the dyneema type? Does anyone have an opinion? (My dyneema slings tend to show wear quickly, already replaced quite a few from my trad rack.)
(This post was edited by gblauer on Nov 8, 2007, 12:35 PM)
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Carnage
Nov 8, 2007, 4:04 PM
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gunkiemike wrote: If you've been sporting long enough to wear out a set of draws, then you should have developed a preference for draws. The fact that haven't (apparently) tells me that you don't really care what the biners & bones are. In which case my serious answer is "It doesn't matter". The rope OTOH seems to matter to you. I have had similar experience with the ever-expanding Mammuts. I've enjoyed a BW Lightning 9.7. I love my 9.7 Lanex but I don't think it's available any more.
lanex ropes are now marketed as TENDON's. From looking at the website, they seem to have some quality gear, really low impact forces and high # of falls held. Im interested to see what someone who has owned one will say about em
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vegastradguy
Nov 8, 2007, 4:29 PM
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flint wrote: Sterling 9.8 bicolor velocity... Amazing rope, great handling, wears like steal cable (last seemigly forever) and if you need customer help, you can not beat the sterling company.
bingo- this is an AMAZING rope. my Velocity has been absolutely abused this year and shows no signs of wear. i had expected about 12 months of use before retirement, and i now expect at least 24....
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murph24
Nov 8, 2007, 5:04 PM
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Go with the DMM Shadow Quickdraw, strong, light and notchless, the gate is more bent than other draws making it easier to clip
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snowboardercolo
Nov 9, 2007, 4:03 PM
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I made my own draws with Mamut wiregates it looks like they 26x8.x10 kn so they are strong and light! Plus I haven't seen better prices if you shop around Campmor has them on sale now.
As far as the rope goes I love my Beal Edlinger 10.2 70M Golden Dry 10.2 I have used it a half season and it is still as new looking as the first day.
I am not sure about the Sterling 9.8 bicolor velocity
A friend of mine bought a Sterling Marathon Pro 10.1 and she has worn it out in a season. I climbed on it the first part of the season and it was great! She showed it to me after her trip and is is done. Maybe the velocity is a better rope?
The best prices I have found on both these ropes is at Backcountry. I picked mine up for $97 on their sale. It is Bi-color but not center marked. I think it is going for $139 right now but there is always someone on here with a 20% off coupon for Backcountry.
Good Luck
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ghisino
Nov 12, 2007, 8:22 PM
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if you want something that will last long
Petzl Spirits. The Porsche 911 of quickdraws heheheh
But they're soooooooooo expensive.
if you want something that lasts decently and it's easy to handle, BD might be a good choiche. I really like the positrons...
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shockabuku
Nov 12, 2007, 8:38 PM
Post #16 of 19
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murph24 wrote: Go with the DMM Shadow Quickdraw, strong, light and notchless, the gate is more bent than other draws making it easier to clip
Good luck finding them; if you do, let me know where, I'd like to try one out.
Edited for: Oh, and wow! they're expensive.
(This post was edited by shockabuku on Nov 12, 2007, 8:43 PM)
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shimanilami
Nov 12, 2007, 8:53 PM
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ghisino wrote: if you want something that will last long Petzl Spirits. The Porsche 911 of quickdraws heheheh But they're soooooooooo expensive. if you want something that lasts decently and it's easy to handle, BD might be a good choiche. I really like the positrons...
Agreed. You really can't beat the Petzl's.
As for cost, they're what, $5 more per draw? Considering that they're so nice to use and that they'll last you for many, many years, $5 is well worth the price, IMO.
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ghisino
Nov 12, 2007, 11:49 PM
Post #18 of 19
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shimanilami wrote: ghisino wrote: if you want something that will last long Petzl Spirits. The Porsche 911 of quickdraws heheheh But they're soooooooooo expensive. if you want something that lasts decently and it's easy to handle, BD might be a good choiche. I really like the positrons... Agreed. You really can't beat the Petzl's. As for cost, they're what, $5 more per draw? Considering that they're so nice to use and that they'll last you for many, many years, $5 is well worth the price, IMO.
oh well...here in europe they just cost twice any other draw
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murph24
Nov 13, 2007, 1:32 AM
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shockabuku wrote: murph24 wrote: Go with the DMM Shadow Quickdraw, strong, light and notchless, the gate is more bent than other draws making it easier to clip Good luck finding them; if you do, let me know where, I'd like to try one out. Edited for: Oh, and wow! they're expensive.
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