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jaybro
Nov 8, 2007, 11:37 AM
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What a cool thread!
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edl
Nov 8, 2007, 4:10 PM
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grimpiperx wrote: Doesn't Matt Birch's Somewhere in Time count? Given V14 by Matt Birch and V13 by Daniel Woods.
Do you have any more info on this one?
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atpeaceinbozeman
Nov 8, 2007, 5:08 PM
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edl wrote: grimpiperx wrote: Doesn't Matt Birch's Somewhere in Time count? Given V14 by Matt Birch and V13 by Daniel Woods. Do you have any more info on this one?
check out http://socalbouldering.com/lowdown.htm
it has some info and a picture...
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grimpiperx
Nov 8, 2007, 8:30 PM
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edl wrote: grimpiperx wrote: Doesn't Matt Birch's Somewhere in Time count? Given V14 by Matt Birch and V13 by Daniel Woods. Do you have any more info on this one?
There was a video of it on http://www.momentumvm.com but it is not up any more although if you are a premium member you can watch it, and maybe it is on the first DVD.
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tomPR
Nov 8, 2007, 11:41 PM
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edl wrote: Oh yea, there is also The Red Snapper. This was originally done as a V13 sloper problem by Andy Reather (sick), but it is really a flared and traversing crack problem. If you do it as a crack it is around V8. That one is also in the new guide.
Yeah, that's typical! Some hardnut slopes it out and really, with a bit of flare-action and cunningness you can get away with sneaky jams!!
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edl
Nov 9, 2007, 2:50 AM
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tomPR wrote: Yeah, that's typical! Some hardnut slopes it out and really, with a bit of flare-action and cunningness you can get away with sneaky jams!!
It's true. I don't of course mean any disrespect to Andy, he just missed the beta on that one. What he did on it is impressive though.
Also, I was wondering about a couple crack problems myself, so I would love to hear any info about them. One is supposedly somewhere in Red Rocks, a Bachar problem I believe. Also, Curt once mentioned something about "The Nichole Crack" which is supposedly in J-tree. There is also supposedly some thirty degree overhanging ringlock crack above Big Bend Boulders somewhere, but who knows about that one. Sounds plausible though. Camhead? Anyone?
Also worth mentioning are two that a guy who posts under the name grateful joe on yourclimbing.com put up. One is a seventy foot offwidth roof in Hueco, and the other is some hard crack in the Happys or Sads outside of Bishop. He said both are 5.13. I don't know anything else about them, never seen them or anything.
Also, Tom, I never did The Cedar Eater. I haven't been to Yosemite in a couple years, and I didn't know where it was or who to ask when I was there. Really wanted to check it out though. Next time.
Keep em coming guys, one of my favorite topics ever.
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m-earle
Nov 9, 2007, 4:31 AM
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"There is also supposedly some thirty degree overhanging ringlock crack above Big Bend Boulders somewhere"
sweet...
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a.a.
Nov 9, 2007, 5:30 AM
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edl wrote: Also, I was wondering about a couple crack problems myself, so I would love to hear any info about them. One is supposedly somewhere in Red Rocks, a Bachar problem I believe.
There's a problem at Willow Springs that the little bouldering guide lists as an unrepeated Bachar crack problem. Unfortunately it's pretty much a closed seam that you face climb around. As far as I know, it hasn't seen a second ascent.
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tomPR
Nov 9, 2007, 5:23 PM
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edl wrote: Also worth mentioning are two that a guy who posts under the name grateful joe on yourclimbing.com put up. One is a seventy foot offwidth roof in Hueco, and the other is some hard crack in the Happys or Sads outside of Bishop. He said both are 5.13. I don't know anything else about them, never seen them or anything. Also, Tom, I never did The Cedar Eater. I haven't been to Yosemite in a couple years, and I didn't know where it was or who to ask when I was there. Really wanted to check it out though. Next time. Keep em coming guys, one of my favorite topics ever.
Yeah, I've heard of this huge offwidth roof as well in Hueco - dunno any details though. Maybe it's just an urban myth or someone distorting the story about something else we actually know about.
Cedar Eater is great - worth the trip to find it (about a hour of getting lost in the woods! Despite having the guide book) and certainly worth climbing to feel what it's like to sit-ups when your legs are numb...
I also know of an uber-project roof in Cali - I'll PM you about it.
I've been working on a horizontal 20ft roof crack for 4yrs now - getting close these days - guess it'll be V11/12 when it gets done. I can mail you a couple of photos if you're interested.
And - yes, this is the best discussion topic ever!!
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tomPR
Nov 9, 2007, 9:40 PM
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She's laybacking.... tut... tut.
Whatever next?! 
Nice video anyway - thanks for that.
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goodman
Nov 9, 2007, 9:49 PM
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Yo Petsfed - Justin got the 2nd ascent of Equilibrium - FYI.....
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goodman
Nov 9, 2007, 9:55 PM
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Edl - Pats Crack has a 2nd. I got back there a few years ago. Cloudwalker is a great finger crack roof problem!
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petsfed
Nov 9, 2007, 10:10 PM
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goodman wrote: Yo Petsfed - Justin got the 2nd ascent of Equilibrium - FYI.....
As in he did it again? Otherwise, you might want to tell him that first, because he's the one who claimed it.
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goodman
Nov 9, 2007, 11:00 PM
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I have spoken with him in regards to the history.
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petsfed
Nov 10, 2007, 1:10 AM
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Cool. Who got the FA then?
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edl
Nov 10, 2007, 4:00 AM
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Yo goodman. Glad to get your input on this thread. Good work on Pats Crack, that thing is amazing and hard.
I think you are thinking about The Crap Artist, which is kinda near Nats. I put that up on Mountain Project, gave you credit on the FA too. I can change the name to whatever you like if you want. Equilibrium is a super painful fifteen foot sixty degree roof at the base of Holdout. If you did that one too, good work. Also wanted to mention that I went back to Deliverance and sent without dabbing. Did it twice back to back just for good measure. Good problem.
One last thing, Where can we find The Karate Flare up by Gray Rock. I'm sure you told me but I have forgotten by now. I remember you said it was very cool bad flared hands.
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edl
Nov 10, 2007, 4:54 AM
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camhead wrote: I've heard of this crack, but never been on it or seen it. If it's the one I'm thinking of, it's around v5 or v6. May have to go exploring in the next few days.
The guy who told me about it said it was way up and to the left of Big Bend if standing at the road and looking at the boulders, near a prow on the cliffline. Let us know if you find it.
Also, I for one wont laugh at you for mentioning Enchanted Rock, that place sounds cool, and your not the first person I have heard talk about it. If it wasn't in the heart of The Land of the Longbelts I would have already checked it out by now. Is it worth the trip for a guy who lives in Wyoming? Also, where could I get info about the routes, besides the ones you listed? Sounds similar to Mt. Woodson.
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camhead
Nov 10, 2007, 6:47 AM
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edl wrote: camhead wrote: I've heard of this crack, but never been on it or seen it. If it's the one I'm thinking of, it's around v5 or v6. May have to go exploring in the next few days. The guy who told me about it said it was way up and to the left of Big Bend if standing at the road and looking at the boulders, near a prow on the cliffline. Let us know if you find it. Also, I for one wont laugh at you for mentioning Enchanted Rock, that place sounds cool, and your not the first person I have heard talk about it. If it wasn't in the heart of The Land of the Longbelts I would have already checked it out by now. Is it worth the trip for a guy who lives in Wyoming? Also, where could I get info about the routes, besides the ones you listed? Sounds similar to Mt. Woodson.
cool, I'll have to check that out. Although unfortunately, I will only be in Moab for another couple weeks.
There's a bouldering guidebook out for E-rock called "The Little Dome Driver," by Scott Steiner. However, even that guidebook doesn't have much in the way of hard cracks. I actually don't know of that many cracks at E-rock that are harder than 12b or so.
A trip to E-Rock and the Wichitas in OK (they're about 6 hours apart) would be worth it from Wyoming, without a doubt. Those two areas have a combined lifetime of bouldering. And you could always take the long way home and hit Hueco.
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edl
Nov 11, 2007, 4:44 AM
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Just thought of another one: Robbery Train (V9) at Mt. Evans put up by Cameron Cross. Never been on that one either. Why is it so hard to get people to go up to hard cracks? There used to be a video of it on climbing.com, dunno if it's still there. Splitter fingers and tight hands out a roof, looked sweet.
Camhead: Those two places are now definitely on my places to see list. Thanks.
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yuiruprup
Nov 29, 2007, 3:26 AM
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sammmy wrote: Commando Crack, V3 Grandmother Mtn.
Dude, I have done commando crack and I boulder v6 on my best day.
It is definitely harder than v3 though.
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sammmy
Nov 30, 2007, 10:58 PM
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knieveltech wrote: FTW you don't have to worry about getting Dean Milton's panties in a bunch because there's a non-local in the area. Edited to add: Uh...yeah...wrong problem. My bad. Reading comprehension and all that. Carry on.
Bwaahahahha! Seriously? That's funny if so. (If there's a) Next time, ask him where he's from.
Wait, actually, yea, locals only brah!!!!
yuiruprup wrote: sammmy wrote: Commando Crack, V3 Grandmother Mtn. Dude, I have done commando crack and I boulder v6 on my best day. It is definitely harder than v3 though.
(not quite sure what your point is, but)
Ok... 5.10+ then.
Edit: Blue Moon at Asheboro is my new nominee then, since Commando Crack isn't V2.
(This post was edited by sammmy on Nov 30, 2007, 11:00 PM)
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knieveltech
Dec 1, 2007, 2:07 AM
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sammmy wrote: knieveltech wrote: FTW you don't have to worry about getting Dean Milton's panties in a bunch because there's a non-local in the area. Edited to add: Uh...yeah...wrong problem. My bad. Reading comprehension and all that. Carry on. Bwaahahahha! Seriously? That's funny if so. (If there's a) Next time, ask him where he's from. Wait, actually, yea, locals only brah!!!!
Not likely. Last time I checked there where only a couple problems out there I was interested in ticking anyway and with Ashboro open, eh, he can keep Grandmother. It's not like it's dry half the time anyway.
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