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jcpace
Nov 13, 2007, 12:23 AM
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Anyone else think the rating on Hot Tuna is a little off? V5? I would say that there are at least two V5 moves on that long route. Sure there are good rests... and with those damn polished holds covered with paint...
Any thoughts?
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ksolem
Nov 13, 2007, 12:53 AM
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V5 should be what, 5.12b or so? There are no 5.12 moves on Hot Tuna. Sorry dude.
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Muad_Dib
Nov 13, 2007, 1:31 AM
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This cracks me up. I sent that thing after quite a bit of practice a few months ago. I was so proud. Nice work if you did too. Hot Tuna is a perfect example of flaws inherent to the V grading system. Look to posts about "The wheel of time" for more information.
I agree with ksolem, I think the hardest move on the problem is only V2/V3, the last dyno might be a tad harder if you're short. I could do all the moves on this problem when I first started climbing, I'm tall so that helped with the last move. But it took 2 yrs to get the strength/endurance/ motivation to send that beast - from all the way left to finish up the crack on the right. I also have a friend who has sent many 6's and a few 7's at Stoney and he still can't do it, in fact I know a few. So there you have it, the V scale comes up short when grading this problem, as it does with many others, but really who cares. It's just one hard sweet problem.
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sportclimber45
Mar 9, 2008, 3:40 PM
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don't go grade every thing stony's soft enought
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tuna
Mar 9, 2008, 7:10 PM
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so yall think I'm hot and over rated do ya.
Well get over it cuz it's not true
the over rated part that is
wel maybe a little bit but the hot part is true
ciao
Santana aka Tuna
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jcpace
Mar 20, 2008, 9:26 AM
Post #6 of 11
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Registered: Jun 24, 2003
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sportclimber45 wrote: don't go grade every thing stony's soft enought
what this utterance means I cannot even begin to understand...
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jcpace
Mar 20, 2008, 9:27 AM
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I think v5 is pretty accurate grade for the climb.
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dta95b7r
Mar 20, 2008, 1:29 PM
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I wish the community would just stop using the v grading system.
(This post was edited by dta95b7r on Mar 21, 2008, 2:15 PM)
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wilson
Mar 21, 2008, 1:22 PM
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Registered: Nov 22, 2002
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who are 'they'? further, how would 'they' go about tossing the v-scale? it assumes there is some international panel of climbing culture appropriateness that can simply pass down the order:
"That's right Bob, the v-scale is out, and why we're at it we've decided to ban the word 'brah' and the wearing of beanies in temperatures over 58 degrees."
-t
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socalbolter
Mar 21, 2008, 2:33 PM
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V5 seems fair to me also. The amount and quality of the rests on the traverse bring the overall difficulty rating down to the hardest single moves and none of those are harder than V5.
Kudos to bringing the question to the community. Best way by far to achieve the consensus you'll want in your guide.
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mattocrc
Nov 13, 2008, 3:17 AM
Post #11 of 11
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Registered: Nov 13, 2008
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Hot Tuna is great traverse. (Pure Monkey strength.)
V ratings ( who cares just climb whatever and whenever.)
Mr wilson( kamp's also carried a crash Pad.)
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