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ilikerock13
Nov 20, 2007, 8:12 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2005
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Hello Hello, I have put together my tick list for my next rip to Red Rock NV, but i just wanted some feed back as i always pick routes that look good to me and my wife usually hates them; too steep or too powerful. So...i was looking for good techy/thin 10d, 11a's or 11b's. She really liked the 11's at sweet pain two years ago. Are there any suggested routes that are similar. Anywhere in the park is fine. I would also take any input on the best high ten low elevens in general, if you are so inclined.
I thank you for your feed back!
berto
(This post was edited by ilikerock13 on Nov 20, 2007, 8:14 PM)
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bandycoot
Nov 20, 2007, 8:29 PM
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Registered: Nov 25, 2002
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You could use a little bit of gear for this one for about 30', but I thought Unimpeachable Groping was really fun at 10d. It's multipitch, but gets early sun and is easily doable in a day.
Josh
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mwunder424
Nov 20, 2007, 9:07 PM
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Registered: Jun 28, 2006
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Nine Lives is graded 11d but I thought it was lighter than that... more like an 11a/b. But it was not too burly or pumpy... more technical moves in a corner. And it was directly to the right of a fantastic 10a or so... cant remember the name... but that wall only has 3 or 4 climbs there.
(This post was edited by mwunder424 on Nov 20, 2007, 9:08 PM)
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raymondjeffrey
Nov 20, 2007, 9:18 PM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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Try these routes..
The Fox: 5.10d
The Gambler: 5.11a/b
Prince of Darkness: 5.10c
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ilikerock13
Nov 21, 2007, 12:14 AM
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Thanks
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vegastradguy
Nov 21, 2007, 1:20 AM
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
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the Fox = .10+ gear. :) full double rack to #5 C4! yowsers!
sport routes at that grade:
The Gambler for sure, that's a really nice route. The two routes to its right are also very nice (and long!).
Nightmare on Crude Street, .10d (Black Corridor)
Rebel Without a Pause, .11a (Black Corridor)
Totally Clips, .11a (Panty Wall)
the .10d slab @ the Panty Wall is sweet, but a little heady if you're shorter than 5'10".
The Gallery- pretty much any of those routes. Yaak Crack is .11d, but its a jug haul and lots of fun. You may take the whip, but its all air.
Under the Boardwalk, .11b (the Pier)- a really nice route- mostly fun jugs with an inobvious crux.
One Eyed Jack, .11a (stratocaster wall)
Marshall Amp, .11b (stratocaster wall) crux roof to 70' of 5.fun above. a 70m rope is really nice for this, but a 60m will work just barely. Also, the route immediately to its left is fun as well- the start is...unique!
Red Sky Mining/Red Storm Rising (Holiday Wall) One is tougher than the other, but both are sweet.
When the Cat's Away (Holiday Wall)- a beautiful line that screams to be climbed with a a definite pump clock!
Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10d - 6 pitches up the east face of Ginger Buttress....all bolted and supposedly quite good at the grade.
PoD will be cold, cold, cold now- no sun at all in the back of Black Velvet- not a good time for the crimpfest that it is.....
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raymondjeffrey
Nov 21, 2007, 2:55 AM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2004
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Yea, just take vegastradguys advice. I always forget that it's gonna be cold as shit in BV this time of year.
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ilikerock13
Nov 21, 2007, 3:35 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2005
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you rule vegastradguy! That is a lot of help
b
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