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dfrancom
Nov 26, 2007, 8:45 PM
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Sometimes when climbing I see a stuck cam in the crack on classic routes. Many of them are rotated backwards, wondering how that happens. Does the cam actually break? and is this caused by a factor 2 fall?
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ja1484
Nov 26, 2007, 8:59 PM
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This is a result of microfractures, which can occur if you drop your cam from any height greater than two feet.
If you should drop a cam in this manner, immediately send them to me for proper disposal.
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coastal_climber
Nov 26, 2007, 9:26 PM
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dfrancom wrote: Sometimes when climbing I see a stuck cam in the crack on classic routes. Many of them are rotated backwards, wondering how that happens. Does the cam actually break? and is this caused by a factor 2 fall?
Why do you suck at trolling?
>Cam
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dfrancom
Nov 26, 2007, 9:29 PM
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Really, only 2 feet? Where exactly does the cam fracture from? because the cam appears to retain its original form, just backwards rotated?
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chossmonkey
Nov 26, 2007, 10:22 PM
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dfrancom wrote: Sometimes when climbing I see a stuck cam in the crack on classic routes. Many of them are rotated backwards, wondering how that happens. Does the cam actually break? and is this caused by a factor 2 fall?
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microbarn
Nov 26, 2007, 10:30 PM
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dfrancom wrote: Really, only 2 feet? Where exactly does the cam fracture from? because the cam appears to retain its original form, just backwards rotated?
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evanwish
Nov 29, 2007, 4:58 AM
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dfrancom wrote: Sometimes when climbing I see a stuck cam in the crack on classic routes. Many of them are rotated backwards, wondering how that happens. Does the cam actually break? and is this caused by a factor 2 fall?
One of my favorite trad climbs (one that requires many runners, often up to 5-6') has a few fixed pieces including a U-stem cam that's been flipped upside-down and is locked in place.
I placed 2 pieces above them, equalized them, and hung there for a while to remove it.. it really was an eyesore.. eventually i realized it wasn't moving.. pulled out my pieces, clipped it and headed on.
it was obvious that someone had placed it very deep in the crack where there was a hidden flare towards the back, when they clipped it without a runner, the rope drag flipped it and it must have been fallen on, because it was torqued in REALLY tight...
hope they learned to use runners on their cams...
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paintrain
Nov 30, 2007, 3:43 AM
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I have a 36 inch flat head screwdriver I have on a sling for all those cams seeking the american dream (Freedom, duh). I usually have a coalition of climbing partners who help me in these efforts who have like minded philosophies.
I set them free and have flowers thrown at my feet as I am greeted as a cam liberator. My policies liberate at least 3-4 oppressed camming devices a year.
The difference between me and those getting them stuck in the quagmire of overcammed crack is, I am smarter than Dick Cheney.
PT
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Kilgore_Trout
Dec 4, 2007, 5:56 PM
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Who isn't?
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dingus
Dec 4, 2007, 6:09 PM
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Many a cam has gotten stuck because the 2nd grabbed the piece and pulled the trigger and tugged down and out without first looking at the placement to determine how to clean it.
The urge is to clean first, look 2nd (if the 1st doesn't go so well). By then, sometimes, it is too late.
Subsequent cleaning attempts can lead to all sorts of configurations.
DMT
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jestering
Dec 4, 2007, 6:11 PM
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paintrain wrote: I have a 36 inch flat head screwdriver I have on a sling for all those cams seeking the american dream (Freedom, duh). I usually have a coalition of climbing partners who help me in these efforts who have like minded philosophies. I set them free and have flowers thrown at my feet as I am greeted as a cam liberator. My policies liberate at least 3-4 oppressed camming devices a year. The difference between me and those getting them stuck in the quagmire of overcammed crack is, I am smarter than Dick Cheney. PT
Seen on a t-shirt outside of Driggs:
"Dick Cheney Skis in Jeans."
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 4, 2007, 7:39 PM
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evanwish wrote: dfrancom wrote: Sometimes when climbing I see a stuck cam in the crack on classic routes. Many of them are rotated backwards, wondering how that happens. Does the cam actually break? and is this caused by a factor 2 fall? has a few fixed pieces including a U-stem cam that's been flipped upside-down and is locked in place. I placed 2 pieces above them, equalized them, and hung there for a while to remove it.. it really was an eyesore.. eventually i realized it wasn't moving.. pulled out my pieces, clipped it and headed on. it was obvious that someone had placed it very deep in the crack where there was a hidden flare towards the back, when they clipped it without a runner, the rope drag flipped it and it must have been fallen on, because it was torqued in REALLY tight... hope they learned to use runners on their cams...
It's your funeral
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paintrain
Dec 4, 2007, 9:10 PM
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- "Dick Cheney skis in jeans"
That is funny.
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jestering
Dec 4, 2007, 9:30 PM
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paintrain wrote: - "Dick Cheney skis in jeans" That is funny.
How about this one:
"Dick Cheney wears a helmet on toprope."
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shockabuku
Dec 4, 2007, 10:24 PM
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jestering wrote: paintrain wrote: - "Dick Cheney skis in jeans" That is funny. How about this one: "Dick Cheney wears a helmet on toprope."
Well, in Dick's favor, at least he does ski (and maybe climbs, I don't know).
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paintrain
Dec 4, 2007, 11:02 PM
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I doubt he does much of anything with his crappy ticker, but play with his oversized risk board trying to figure out what country to hurl bombs at next.
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onceahardman
Dec 4, 2007, 11:18 PM
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In reply to: I am smarter than Dick Cheney.
Dick Cheney takes shits that are smarter than you.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 4, 2007, 11:21 PM
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onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I am smarter than Dick Cheney. Dick Cheney takes shits that are smarter than you.
Maybe if he quit shitting out his smartness he wouldn't be such a dumbass.
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ja1484
Dec 4, 2007, 11:29 PM
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microbarn wrote: dfrancom wrote: Really, only 2 feet? Where exactly does the cam fracture from? because the cam appears to retain its original form, just backwards rotated? ja1484 was trying to be funny. Chossy's answer is the correct one.
I wasn't just trying, I was goddam hilarious and you know it 
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dingus
Dec 4, 2007, 11:57 PM
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onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I am smarter than Dick Cheney. Dick Cheney takes shits that are smarter than you.
So Cheney really DOES have shit for brains!
DMT
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evanwish
Dec 17, 2007, 9:48 PM
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onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I am smarter than Dick Cheney. Dick Cheney takes shits that are smarter than you.
end of story.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Dec 18, 2007, 1:51 AM
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evanwish wrote: onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I am smarter than Dick Cheney. Dick Cheney takes shits that are smarter than you. end of story.
This coming from a guy who can't even get the spelling correct in his signature?
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evanwish
Dec 18, 2007, 3:53 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: evanwish wrote: onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I am smarter than Dick Cheney. Dick Cheney takes shits that are smarter than you. end of story. This coming from a guy who can't even get the spelling correct in his signature?
comming from the guy named "Arrogant_Bastard"
wonder how you got that nickname?
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caughtinside
Dec 18, 2007, 3:57 AM
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evanwish wrote: Arrogant_Bastard wrote: evanwish wrote: onceahardman wrote: In reply to: I am smarter than Dick Cheney. Dick Cheney takes shits that are smarter than you. end of story. This coming from a guy who can't even get the spelling correct in his signature? comming from the guy named "Arrogant_Bastard" wonder how you got that nickname?
Now you've done it.
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