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notapplicable
Nov 26, 2007, 9:49 PM
Post #26 of 111
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Registered: Aug 31, 2006
Posts: 17771
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Damn, alot of very productive work going on. Especially ZealotNoob, thats one hell of a first full season as a climber, congrats.
My year started off on a F'd note to be sure. In between kids, Iraq deployments and injuries I lost all of my regular partners for anything other than the gym and a little sport climbing.
As a result my soloing took a big step forward or more accurately, began in ernest, especially in the onsite category. Actually I roped up very little this year and I'm sure my redpoint level actually went down. My head is leveler than ever though and the endurance is way up. Lots of miles put in at Seneca, Old Rag and Hidden Rocks mostly consisting of 5.8 and under 40% or more being onsite. Hardest onsite being 5.8, hardest altogether being .10b.
I am looking for new partners for gear routes but have kind of found a groove that will probably carry over into next spring at the least. Its getting cold so I guess I'll being seeing you guys and girls in NC soon.
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vegastradguy
Nov 26, 2007, 10:02 PM
Post #27 of 111
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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It's been a pretty weird year for me, but fairly productive nonetheless...
I finally broke into .11 on gear this year- flashed a few .11a's, got on some stuff up to .11c with no falls on TR. I've also managed to solidify myself on 5.10 for the most part- even led some 5.10R's in RR this year....
Started projecting some .12a's on bolts in the spring, but then I managed to injure my shoulder, effectively ending my sport climbing this season.
Went on a 6 week roadtrip this summer, stopping at Paradise Forks, where I ticked off a few .11 testpieces with no falls and learned how to effectively jam green camalot sized cracks.
Then spent a week in the Valley, not doing much. Got spanked on half dome partly because of my shoulder and partly because i was in over my head.
Went to Squamish for two weeks and ticked 72 pitches, including the Grand Wall with no falls, Angel's Crest, Diedre, the Snake, and every 5 star at the Smoke Bluffs .11 and under. That was a great trip and I found my new summer destination!
Still nursing my shoulder, my fall started off a bit rough, but still productive. I've climbed more this year than any other, despite not having regular partners.
Two months into the fall season here at RR and i've managed to beat my personal best on Solar Slab twice, my CTC is now under 3hrs.
I've also returned to the FA arena, ticking off a pair of new routes on Jackrabbit Buttress, and a cherry line about 50' left of Crimson Chrysalis- an 800' crack system that I named the Disciple.
I'm finally back onto easy .11s on sport- but the overhanging routes still kick my ass once its over .11b or so- too hard on my shoulder.
A weird year, but the season has just started- lots of time to climb still!!
(This post was edited by vegastradguy on Nov 27, 2007, 5:55 PM)
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jmeizis
Nov 26, 2007, 10:07 PM
Post #28 of 111
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
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Let's see:
Met goal of onsighting 5.8 trad (upped it to 5.9 and didn't quite get it).
Onsighted a 5.10b and redpointed several other 5.10's sport.
Climbed many multi-pitch climbs, several grade II and first grade III.
Just got back from a sweet trip to HCR and managed to climb outside almost every weekend and then some in places such as Cannon, Cathedral, Whitehorse, Gunks, Rumney, and the Adirondacks.
Bouldered a V2 (I'm not much of a boulderer)
Climbed ice for the first time and probably before almost anyone else in New England did. Also summited Mt. Washington.
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chossmonkey
Nov 26, 2007, 10:20 PM
Post #29 of 111
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
Posts: 28414
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I mEATBOMBzed the talus and walked away from it.
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mushroomsamba
Nov 26, 2007, 11:12 PM
Post #31 of 111
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Registered: Apr 24, 2006
Posts: 389
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climbed my first 5.12 top rope
learned to lead trad
built my rack from the ground up
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angry
Nov 26, 2007, 11:21 PM
Post #32 of 111
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Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
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Ice/Alpine:
In January I climbed ice for the first time. In a few months I'd been to several places in CO and had my first lead too. I was also soloing the Clear Creek ice after work about once a week too.
In June/July I went to Peru to climb. I ended up getting up Alpamayo on July 4th and rejected twice on Hauscaran Sur due to wind, weather, fatigue, and blindness (of course all at the same time).
Rock
Teh Desert:
I was very psyched on Indian Creek this year. No real sends. I climbed multiple 5.13's with one fall but never redpointed one of them. I did add several more 5.12's to my onsight and and redpoint list. Some towers too. Replaced a handfull of anchors. Just good stuff.
California:
Spent a week or so in the Needles, got on a ton of stuff. The trip ended with me tearing something in my arch stemming the 4th pitch of Romantic Warrior. A week later and feeling better we did a one day ascent of the Regular Route on Half Dome. To make it better, I did it in the same pants I'm climbing Bellyfull in on my profile. Got some great looks from the tourists on top.
Trench Warfare:
I spent a few days working this beauty. My friend I was with sent it, fucking incredible. I got all the way to the end and was just too damn tired to pull the lip (way past the crux) so came off. This is equivalent to the "stepping off" send it got it's first two ascents with. I say it's not a send and need to come back and do it right.
Wyoming/Colorado:
Got into the Black Canyon for the first time. Epic times ensued. Finally got on Medicine Man at Co Natl Monument. It's the softest 12c in the world. An easy onsight. Started sport climbing a little. Nothing of note but I actually clipped bolts on multiple occasions this year. Did an FA in the Splatte that is pretty cool. Finally pulled all the moves clean on my Ultra Project and haven't been back since. I see it happening in the spring or sooner if we get some warm days.
Employement:
I quit my job as a teacher and have just been working random part-time gigs for just enough money to keep climbing. It's not sustainable but I'm so incredibly happy with the situation right now.
Health:
About 2 weeks after I got home from Peru I got floored by a mysterious fatigue. I've never been so exhausted in my life. I was falling and struggling on 11's I'd easily done years ago. I could not get my shit together. Other than the occasional burst of send, I was about a 10d climber from August-Sept. It was incredibly frustrating. I'm back to where I was before I got "tired" but it means I spent the fall chasing previous high points, not getting better.
On the plus side, climbing with no energy or strength greatly improves footwork. I'm strong again so that's good.
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scotchie
Nov 26, 2007, 11:29 PM
Post #33 of 111
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Registered: Jul 31, 2004
Posts: 261
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First time climbing in Red Rocks, Cochise Stronghold
First 5.9 trad lead (done several now)
Several clean 2nd's of 5.10 crack pitches
First 5.11 sport redpoint and onsight
Struggled to the top of a couple more 5.12- topropes
Intro to the art of moving quickly on multipitch
Started learning finger jams
Longest climb yet (9 pitches, 960ft)
Got a dog
Got a girlfriend
Got my first 2 overuse injuries from climbing
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pwscottiv
Nov 26, 2007, 11:31 PM
Post #34 of 111
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Registered: Jul 8, 2007
Posts: 157
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JREECE wrote: i introduced my mom into climbing and since then we have been on many trips she loves it and so do i
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uhoh
Nov 26, 2007, 11:46 PM
Post #35 of 111
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Registered: Mar 11, 2007
Posts: 2281
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sevrdhed wrote: Reached my goal of climbing over 500 different problems in LCC. Found and sent a bunch of projects. Found some more to send next year. Today is possibly the last day of the season (50% chance of snow tomorrow), so hopefully I'll add one more send to the list. If not, oh well!
What the fuck kind of attitude is that? Chance of snow means chance of ice climbing!
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tallmark515
Nov 27, 2007, 1:28 AM
Post #36 of 111
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Registered: Oct 2, 2006
Posts: 281
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Onsighted my first .10a (Trad)
Led my first .10b (trad)
Snake Dike (Yosemite) Onsight. Did it in a day, Camp 4 to Camp 4.
Won a union organizing campaign at a hotel that I have been working on for over 4 years.
Spent way to much money on some really cool gear.
Excommunicated myself from sport climbing. Devoted my future climbing career exclusively to trad.
Had such a great time climbing in 2007, I decided to take 2008 off and climb my way across North America, sampling it's fine selection of rock types.
-mark
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camhead
Nov 27, 2007, 1:54 AM
Post #37 of 111
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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ok, ok, I'll spray...
The year got off to a good start in the winter as I met my awesome girlfriend and avoided schoolwork; Hueco, Cochise Stronghold, Red Rocks, and Joshua Tree. The highpoint climbing was definitely an onsight of Rainbow Wall in Redrocks.
Then some medical shit happened in the spring, I almost went blind and my back got really fucked up. It got tough to get psyched for climbing, and I fell into the worst shape I've been in for a couple years. I managed a trip east to the NRG and Horsepens in May, but the psych to climb hard was not there.
River stuff faired a bit better; I did both Grand Canyon and Cataract on the Colorado, both of which were incredible. But other than sporadic cragging days around Moab, I did very little this summer.
After a terrible start-off to the desert crack season this fall, last week I finally began getting into a little better shape. Did a bunch of lesser-known multi-pitches at Indian Creek, onsighted a few 11+/12- cracks, and finished off the desert season with a blast sending Primrose Dihedrals in Canyonlands.
But the year is not over yet. Planning a few weeks in the Southeast at T-wall and the Obed in december, which should be way fun.
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potreroed
Nov 27, 2007, 2:14 AM
Post #38 of 111
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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Injured my shoulder and didn't climb for 7 months which was a bummer 'cuz I had a trip planned to the Italian Dolomites--went anyway and did some good hiking.
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m-earle
Nov 27, 2007, 2:48 AM
Post #40 of 111
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Registered: Apr 3, 2007
Posts: 36
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Out of all the hard pitches, walls, problems, cracks, i will only spray about one send... "Brother from Another Plantet." by far the raddest thing i've done.
07 was a good year for me. I began climbing religiously at the creek, learned some tricks. spent the spring/summer in yosemite. Worked at a gift shop. Hopefully i'll get my act together and get some shit done before the year is over...
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binrat
Nov 27, 2007, 2:50 AM
Post #41 of 111
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Registered: Jul 27, 2006
Posts: 1155
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Well,
For me going from workaholic to enjoying more climbing. For the last 3 years working a part time job in the winter (ski patrolling supervisor at night) and a day job, plus climbing / guiding.
Now changed my day job so I have more time for climbing, cut back on the number of days guiding for climbing days. Been on the rock or plastic at the least 3 times a week since March. A few roads trips to the new with friends.
Put in a new route at my closest crag (5.6 mixed with an overhang).
Oh, getting in shit from the GF for guess what.............climbing
Binrat
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climbsomething
Nov 27, 2007, 2:51 AM
Post #42 of 111
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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I graduated and got a grown-up job with a Tuesday-Saturday schedule. But I'm actually stronger than I've ever been because all I can do now is boulder at the gym.
I flashed an orange problem. It was bitchin.
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erick
Nov 27, 2007, 3:51 AM
Post #43 of 111
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Registered: Aug 12, 2005
Posts: 191
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the biggest highlight for me was learning trad. Even led a couple easy pure trad multipitches, which was a dream come true.
I'm so stoked to see what next season will hold as i further explore trad climbing.
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donald949
Nov 27, 2007, 6:59 AM
Post #44 of 111
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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Got back into Rock Climbing after about a 7 year lay off. My old climbing bud invited me out so we could show some gym climbers how its done. Climbing close to my old level.
In addition to hitting the local crag, we did a couple of multi pitch routes back in the late spring. Happy about that accomplishment.
Introduced two friends to climbing this fall, and they've done well on a couple of trips. My 6 yo tried to climb also, he got about 10 feet up, at the crux, and just wanted to hang. Not go up or down, just hang in the harness. Good enough for the first time out for him, hopefully more to come.
Took the boys out canoeing. Wife and I did a little kayaking.
Not this year, but late last year, we had our third, finally a girl for the wife.
Lost 25 pounds, and got my triglycerides back down to well with in normal.
Next year is my 20th anniversary. Of climbing that is. Would love to repeat a bunch of climbing I've done in the past. Jtree, Devils Punchbowl, Pt Dume, Sespe Gorge, Dome Rock(Needles) and then top off the year climbing Yosemite.
;Don
Edit, forgot to include took my older son Snow Skiing for the first time. After two lessons he was going great and I have a new ski partner. D
(This post was edited by donald949 on Nov 28, 2007, 12:31 AM)
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climbsomething
Nov 27, 2007, 7:21 AM
Post #45 of 111
(1084 views)
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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Actually... I graduated and started my career in mid-2006. But I didn't really notice until this year ;)
I also started doing drive-bys in the BET.
I think I'm a Donny.
Donny-something!
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gblauer
Moderator
Nov 27, 2007, 12:38 PM
Post #46 of 111
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
Posts: 2824
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potreroed wrote: Injured my shoulder
That's an understatement Ed!!!
One week before our regular February Potrero trip, I was dropped in the gym by my belayer, hit the deck from 30+ feet and broke my back. I was released from the hospital in 2 days and began climbing within a week. Trained hard to recover my strength and my head.
The outdoor season came and went before I could meet all of my 2007 goals. I did break into Gunks 5.8's on lead, I lead all of the money pitches on Snot Girlz in EPC, I organized the first ever Birdsboro Climb and Clean, participated in 2 rescues at the Gunks and got close and personal with a tarantula in Mexico.
I fell more in love with Mitchal and I laughed an awful lot with my very best training partner, Jen.
I hit the half century mark.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Nov 27, 2007, 12:54 PM)
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johnwesely
Nov 27, 2007, 1:19 PM
Post #47 of 111
(1046 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
Posts: 5360
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Redpointed 12a on sport
Flashed 10ds at the red
bouldered v7(only one)
Got outside a whole lot more than I did last year.
Got a job that lets me take off work to climb.
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ericbeyeler
Nov 27, 2007, 1:37 PM
Post #48 of 111
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Registered: Jul 12, 2004
Posts: 160
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Put up my first FA
Trip to Eldorado Canyon & Boulder Canyon in 100 degree weather
stitches in my leg
Trip to Gunks in 30 degree weather (I'll take 100, thank you very much)
TR-belayed my 4 year old son
climbed with two new partners
called it quits on a side business making hot sauce
(This post was edited by ericbeyeler on Nov 27, 2007, 1:38 PM)
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stymingersfink
Nov 27, 2007, 5:12 PM
Post #49 of 111
(1001 views)
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
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uhoh wrote: sevrdhed wrote: Reached my goal of climbing over 500 different problems in LCC. Found and sent a bunch of projects. Found some more to send next year. Today is possibly the last day of the season (50% chance of snow tomorrow), so hopefully I'll add one more send to the list. If not, oh well! What the fuck kind of attitude is that? Chance of snow means chance of ice climbing!
Most of my accomplishments for the past year have been in this arena...
Lead the whole of the Talisman during the Ice Fest, paving the way for me to solo comfortably without leashes on some WI5 around Provo Canyon.
My reg. partner was working in Montana all summer, so much of the summer was spent climbing well below my OS ability with newb-ish partners. A side benefit was plenty of opportunity to free-solo some old familiar routes (up to 5.8).
Got back on the ice last weekend, gotta get the lead-head back up to its previous level and see where it goes from there.
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reno
Nov 27, 2007, 5:29 PM
Post #50 of 111
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
Posts: 18283
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Climbed very little, comparatively, but had my neck surgery in June and am recovered. Trying to get back into climbing shape, and still having trouble finding a regular partner.
But I've managed to slog up a few climbs, mostly in Arizona, but a few routes in Red Rock Canyon, JT, and Colorado.
Winter season approaches.... JT trips, ice trips, and Vegas trips.
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