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CINCH modif for SOLO
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drclimber


Dec 3, 2007, 3:49 PM
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CINCH modif for SOLO
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Hey, I was thinking about applying the concept of the "Death GriGri Modification" for solo climbing, to a Trango Cinch.

Obviously the 2 devices are very different in parts aspect, for example, the GriGri uses a spring inside the cam, and it has 2 covers on the sides, the Cinch have none of this attributes.

So, before I wreck my Cinch, I was wondering if someone has done something similar that have worked.

Thanks...


moose_droppings


Dec 3, 2007, 4:08 PM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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drclimber wrote:
Hey, I was thinking about applying the concept of the "Death GriGri Modification" for solo climbing, to a Trango Cinch.

Obviously the 2 devices are very different in parts aspect, for example, the GriGri uses a spring inside the cam, and it has 2 covers on the sides, the Cinch have none of this attributes.

So, before I wreck my Cinch, I was wondering if someone has done something similar that have worked.

Thanks...

Go, ahead and be the 1st one, let us know how it works.


Tuwie


Dec 3, 2007, 9:23 PM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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maldaly wrote:
Gang,
We can not, under any circumstances, recommend the Cinch for soloing, either TR or lead. We've done an enormous amount of testing on it, all to get it dialed for belaying and lowering rock climbers. We haven't spent one second testing it for soloing. So, if you do try it, AMFYOYO.

Here's the way my lawyer wants me to say the same thing...

The Cinch is not designed or approved for solo or self belaying under any circumstances. Using the Cinch in this manner can result in death and/or serious injury. The uses for the Cinch that are being discussed on this site have not been tested and are not approved uses. The Cinch was not designed as a self belay device and such improper use is potentially fatal. The Cinch is designed, sold, and approved for use only as illustrated in the pamphlet that the Cinch is sold with.



Use of the Cinch in any manner not illustrated in that pamphlet can result in death and/or serious injury. The user is responsible for learning the correct way to operate the Cinch and operating the Cinch correctly. The user is responsible for any and all death, injury and/or risks arising out of his or her use of the Cinch. If you do not accept this responsibility, do not use the Cinch. THE MANUFACTURER AND RESELLERS OF THE CINCH EXPLICITLY DISCLAIM ANY AND ALL RESPONSIBILITY AND LIABILITY FOR ANY DEATH, INJURY OR DAMAGE TO ANY PERSON OR PROPERTY THAT MAY OCCUR THAT IS RELATED TO THE USE OF THIS PRODUCT.

Mal


By doing a quick search I found this.


xtremst80


Dec 3, 2007, 9:32 PM
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Re: [Tuwie] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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Does that answer your question??


drclimber


Dec 3, 2007, 11:33 PM
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Re: [xtremst80] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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Nop, it does not.

Im not looking for warnings, Im looking for Ideas that could complement my Idea.

Im aware of the Cinch purposes the way was designed, and, as Mr. Daly says in his advertisement: ¨The user is responsible for any and all death, injury and/or risks arising out of his or her use of the Cinch¨; just as people who has modified their GriGri must be too.

As climbers we should know the risks associated to our hobie, as well as the risk implicit in looking an alternate use to one of our tools; this is one of the ways new tools emerge. Who knows, maybe because of this Trango could design in the future a certified solo belay device.

By the way, I pretend testing it in a Maniqui before trying using it in the field.


billcoe_


Dec 4, 2007, 2:40 AM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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drclimber wrote:
Hey, I was thinking about applying the concept of the "Death GriGri Modification" for solo climbing, to a Trango Cinch.

Obviously the 2 devices are very different in parts aspect, for example, the GriGri uses a spring inside the cam, and it has 2 covers on the sides, the Cinch have none of this attributes.

So, before I wreck my Cinch, I was wondering if someone has done something similar that have worked.

Thanks...

I don't, but what were you thinking to do to your cinch? If you look at the handle of each, you will quickly see that the gri gri would be superior as it is less likely to get accidentally opened.


joeforte


Dec 4, 2007, 4:26 AM
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Re: [billcoe_] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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billcoe_ wrote:
I don't, but what were you thinking to do to your cinch? If you look at the handle of each, you will quickly see that the gri gri would be superior as it is less likely to get accidentally opened.

I don't see how a cinch can be opened any easier than a grigri, please explain.

To the OP, the cinch does not have to be modified to feed smoother, which is the whole purpose of the grigri death mod. In a grigri, the rope makes a tight bend, which is why it is so hard to feed. In a cinch, the rope follows a straight line, which allows it to self feed with as little as just the weight of the rope below it.

This is also why the cinch can be loaded on a weighted rope, which is also not possible with a grigri. This is one of my favorite things about the cinch. It makes it real handy for rescue and rigging situations.

What would you modify anyway? You still haven't mentioned that.


jmvc


Dec 4, 2007, 5:20 PM
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Re: [Tuwie] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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maldaly wrote:
can result in death and/or serious injury.

News to me that you can have an accident and end up dead, but not seriously injured.


healyje


Mar 15, 2008, 12:23 AM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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In case someone finds this thread with a search...

---------------------------------------------------------------------

Malcolm Daly of Trango discussing soloing on the Cinch...

http://www.supertopo.com/...msg=556841#msg556841


(This post was edited by healyje on Mar 15, 2008, 12:24 AM)


climbryn


Mar 19, 2008, 8:15 PM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Hey, I was thinking about applying the concept of the "Death GriGri Modification" for solo climbing, to a Trango Cinch.

Obviously the 2 devices are very different in parts aspect, for example, the GriGri uses a spring inside the cam, and it has 2 covers on the sides, the Cinch have none of this attributes.

So, before I wreck my Cinch, I was wondering if someone has done something similar that have worked.

Thanks...

The cinch does not require moding for TR soloing, because the rope lays flat in the device just weight the end of the rope with say a full water bottle, place the device on the rope, clip it to your harness and climb away. The weight should allow the device to slide up the rope freely, and it "should" lock when you weight the device with downward force. I have used my cinch for TR soloing and it works OK, you feel the device pulling on you a little, and it slips alittle before grabbing (if it grabs at all) I would recommend always having a backup system in place, or even better consider the cinch the back-up system. The more weight at the bottom the easier it will slide up, but the more likely it will slip when holding your fall. I've switched from the Cinch to teh petzl Basic, runs smooth and always grabs...


drclimber


Mar 20, 2008, 1:18 AM
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Re: [climbryn] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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My intention was LEAD rope soloing.

I found a way to do it without modifying the device, also needs a chest harness, but the issue is that each backup system I have added needs manual rope feeding.

In result Im using it without the backup, so it can freely feed, but only in easy face bolted routes for endurance practice.


reno


Mar 20, 2008, 4:58 AM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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drclimber wrote:
Nop, it does not.

Im not looking for warnings, Im looking for Ideas that could complement my Idea.

There are none.

Does THAT answer your question?


drclimber


Apr 1, 2008, 9:59 PM
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Re: [reno] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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Notice I reply a post previous yours saying that I found the way to do it, so your comment is just meaningless.


Partner j_ung


Apr 3, 2008, 8:06 PM
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drclimber wrote:
Nop, it does not.

Im not looking for warnings, Im looking for Ideas that could complement my Idea.

Forgive me for making an assumption about your assumption, but I think you're assuming (heh) that Mal's warning is the same-old-same-old ass covering you get from pretty much all climbing gear makers. If that's the case, then at least be an informed gear misuser. Here's a clip from my review of the Cinch:

In reply to:
And I’ve learned that using it properly might not include using it for roped soloing. AMGA guide Mark Beverly recently performed several dynamic drop tests on Cinches and other belay devices, and Cinches displayed surprising results. They broke.

However, and this is a big HOWEVER, I have some reservations about the way in which Beverly tested his Cinches. He attached one Cinch to the ground and one to an 80kg test load. He then full-on, UIAA-high-factor dropped that sucker and observed the aforementioned results. The problem is that Beverly also tied stopper knots right up next to both Cinches to completely eliminate the chance of rope slipping through the devices from either end. The Cinch, it turns out, is designed to allow slippage at 7kN. Deprived of its design-given right to relieve a few thousand Sir Isaacs, the test left 7kN in the dust and the Cinch attached to the load end of the system broke.

While it’s worth noting that every device Beverly tested was subjected to the exact same rigors and that only the Cinch broke under them, there is some debate over whether or not it’s fair to test a device in a way that specifically prohibits its intended function.

It is also worth noting that a stopper knot right next to the device and a device attached to a falling load – not a belayer – most closely resembles what one might rig for roped soling, hence my previous point. If you decide not to heed my and Trango's advice and you do use a Cinch for roped soloing, you must refrain from tying stopper knots within a few feet of the device. It must be allowed to relieve tension as designed.


chadnsc


Apr 3, 2008, 8:39 PM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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drclimber wrote:
Notice I reply a post previous yours saying that I found the way to do it, so your comment is just meaningless.

Notice that you think you have found a way that appears to work but others with actual first hand experience say it won’t.

Your comment is just meaningless.


drclimber


Apr 7, 2008, 3:32 PM
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Re: [chadnsc] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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Making a Storm in a cup of water...


chadnsc


Apr 7, 2008, 3:42 PM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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Well you keep stirring that cup of water will ya!

How's your modified Cintch solo going? Sly


healyje


Apr 7, 2008, 4:40 PM
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Re: [drclimber] CINCH modif for SOLO [In reply to]
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Well, that is the beauty of soloing of any kind - it's about making your own informed choices. And like any other set of human activity, there's probably a bell curve of some sort which describes the quality of those decisions that looks a lot like an inverted tea cup.


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