|
raymondjeffrey
Nov 30, 2007, 9:04 PM
Post #26 of 60
(3840 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 361
|
that offwidthy section of Refried Brains Red Rock was really unenjoyable.
|
|
|
|
|
edl
Nov 30, 2007, 9:26 PM
Post #27 of 60
(3831 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 134
|
atpeaceinbozeman wrote: The popular season is usually April though October for most, but it really depends on what you view as climbable weather. Last winter I managed over 20 days out there. Alot of the climbing is on the east side of the Homestake pass, and the surrounding mountains draw the weather away; this creates a bit of a rain shadow. If it's over above 30 and sunny, it's usually pretty reasonable. Hell, I even camped 4 days out there last January. Lots of south facing stuff to do. I got stymied last weekend, but I plan to climb out there tomorrow or Sunday.
I will have to head up there at some point. Probably not till next spring though. Would one of you Butte fellows be willing to give a tour?
Also, m-earle, I'll take all I can get of the Circuis Trick variety of offwidths as well. There are also some combination ones that are fun though, such as Big Pink. On Big Pink you stack untill it gets too big, then you leavitate with armbars. Not quite blue collar and not quite a circuis trick, but pretty damn cool.
(This post was edited by edl on Nov 30, 2007, 9:28 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
graniteboy
Nov 30, 2007, 11:49 PM
Post #29 of 60
(3795 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
|
1) Midterm, Arch Rock, Yosemite. 10b
2) Pitch 4 SW face of Conness, Yosemite 10b/c
3) Hair shirt, Donner Summit, 5.8
|
|
|
|
|
evanwish
Dec 2, 2007, 6:46 AM
Post #30 of 60
(3732 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
|
ok so i've got to thank russ. i saw this thread a few days ago and really wanted to start trying some offwidths.
Today started out on a 10 foot 5.8
moved to a 25' 5.8+
then to a 30' 5.8+
ok ok they were only 5.8's but you got to start somewhere
[i can't wait to lead one of these!] [/image]
(This post was edited by evanwish on Dec 2, 2007, 6:53 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
salamanizer
Dec 2, 2007, 7:28 AM
Post #31 of 60
(3724 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
Well, you might feel better to know that when you climb that route (unconquerable) as a lie back, it's 5.8-. When you go right side in like that, it's probably more like .10. So congrats, you climbed a .10 OW.
|
|
|
|
|
evanwish
Dec 2, 2007, 8:04 AM
Post #32 of 60
(3719 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
|
salamanizer wrote: Well, you might feel better to know that when you climb that route (unconquerable) as a lie back, it's 5.8-. When you go right side in like that, it's probably more like .10. So congrats, you climbed a .10 OW.
haa yeah i did it first as a layback.. but i really wanted to try the offwidth technique.
Wow! I wouldn't have guessed.. [don't have anything to compare it to] lol
have you done "struggler" to the right of the Knobby wall? It's the one that starts off as an offwidth, to fists, and then to a layback..
|
|
|
|
|
TheDullEnd
Dec 2, 2007, 10:01 AM
Post #33 of 60
(3714 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 16, 2006
Posts: 21
|
Nice job! I've been doing that as an offwidth at the top lately. good outside feet!
I assert that offwidth is the S&M of climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
salamanizer
Dec 2, 2007, 5:07 PM
Post #34 of 60
(3689 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
Yeah I climbed struggler a few years back. I don't remember it going to fists and a lieback though.
...and I can assure you, it's no Moby Dick.
OW and squeeze chimneys arn't the S&M of climbing, just the S. You're the M.
|
|
|
|
|
mistajman
Dec 2, 2007, 6:28 PM
Post #35 of 60
(3669 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2005
Posts: 136
|
Does anyone know what the offwidth at the top of valley massif at Vedauwoo is?
It is the one that first comes into view after topping out the hand crack pitch of screw. It starts with good overhanging hands, turns into fists, then is a great offwidth size for about 30 feet to the top????
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Dec 3, 2007, 3:57 AM
Post #36 of 60
(3639 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
mistajman wrote: Does anyone know what the offwidth at the top of valley massif at Vedauwoo is? It is the one that first comes into view after topping out the hand crack pitch of screw. It starts with good overhanging hands, turns into fists, then is a great offwidth size for about 30 feet to the top????
Not by name but it's been climbed. I can't remember but I think I may have done it (hazy memories. I know the exact crack you are talking about, I could even draw you a picture, but I can't remember if I climbed it. I think I soloed it and got beached on the top)
|
|
|
|
|
louisiana_climber
Dec 5, 2007, 4:16 PM
Post #37 of 60
(3544 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 7, 2005
Posts: 28
|
my three favorites are: dolphin 5.7- Joshua tree
water chute 5.10b- Joshua tree
7b off width boulder problem--- its around the troll wall in Norway. it would definitely fall into the circus trick category. its the nastiest most overhanging flaring ow I've ever laid my eyes on. oh-- the top out is quite tall too, and when you pull the lip to vertical, there is a lovely fence post there to catch you!
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 5, 2007, 5:00 PM
Post #38 of 60
(3536 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Favorite: Vertigo (Crescent Moon crack) on Cannon Cliff.
Pics:
Early in the crack...
And nearing the top...
Pretty sweet, huh?!
Second favorite: Moby Dick Center
Sorry, no pics.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
philbox
Moderator
Dec 6, 2007, 1:30 AM
Post #39 of 60
(3491 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 27, 2002
Posts: 13105
|
My all time fav offwidth is Cock Crack at Frog Buttress.
Venom spanked me no end, that climb is also at Frog Buttress.
Juggernaut is evil but a climb that draws me back time and again so this one also goes into the fav collection. Juggernaut is also at Frog.
Very wide stuff, hmmm, The back of Campbells Folly near Rathdowney on the Queensland NSW border. 50 metres of 2 and a half foot wide chimney, no it is not offwidth but it is something I really must go out and complete someday. It's just wide enough so you aren't secure in it and a terrible width to try to protect naturally.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Dec 6, 2007, 1:53 AM
Post #40 of 60
(3479 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
If I could tear myself away from the green and red camalots in Indian Creek, I suspect my favorite would be there, but barring much data in that location...
Generator Crack. It's a right of passage. Like first love. Doesn't need to be the best in some objective sense to always retain a special spark. (Most Likely to Repeat.)
Left Side of the Worst Error If chimneys count as ow's this is as spectacular as I've encountered. Three cheers for ropeguns who don't need no stinkin' pro. (Most Uninterupted.)
How 'bout the pitch above Peanut Ledge for unbelievable (unbelievably scary?) A1 ow? (Most Exposure.)
Best looking non-IC I've seen, but not tried that is not a 5.12 roof/overhang problem: Steppin' Out.
Best looking IC I've seen, but not tried that is not a 5.12 or 5.13 roof/overhang problem: Sucker Crack at Broken Tooth.
Best prospect for climbing an ow at present in spite of the spray: Uncle Fanny's Pantry. :-)
(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Dec 6, 2007, 5:46 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
jaybro
Dec 10, 2007, 4:45 AM
Post #41 of 60
(3385 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 441
|
ie valley massiff climb, The cooldown?, actually don't think it ever ahd a name.
Where, exactly is sucker crack, mel.. is it in blooms?
Scary to see so many of you over here, on this site, guesss i'm here too, though.
|
|
|
|
|
mistajman
Dec 10, 2007, 5:02 AM
Post #42 of 60
(3380 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2005
Posts: 136
|
Haven't climbed many, but I really like them. My three favorite are
Cadillac crack in Red Rocks
The start of Middle Parellel space at Vedauwoo
Mainstreet at Vedauwoo
(This post was edited by mistajman on Dec 10, 2007, 5:03 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
radioface
Dec 10, 2007, 5:23 AM
Post #43 of 60
(3368 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 14
|
Well, as far as my favorites go:
Galen's Crack (Tuolumne)
*Don't get down on yourself, Joe. You got up it and you drank respectably.
Ahab (Yosemite)
Self-Abuse (Sugarloaf)
Traveler's Buttress (Lover's Leap)
Not Worth It (RRG)
Reed's Direct
As far as offwidth being sadistic and masochistic, just sadistic or masochistic, or neither, I'd have to agree with TheDullEnd. Admittedly, I initially disagreed with his assertion that offwidth is the S&M of climbing and that by logical extension we ought to be doing these things with gimpsuits (for maximum abrasion protection) and ballgags (for comedic effect).
But really, I think he's right on. Ask yourself: how do offwidth ankle gashes, back scrapes, and elbow goobers make you feel? Personally, they make me feel real good. Let's be honest; we really have to hate ourselves to put ourselves on these runout flared thrashers with any frequency. And unless (sometimes even if) your second has jumars, its highly sadistic. What about our poor seconds? There has been more than one instance that I've felt like a jerk for making somebody suffer up the wide, albeit on toprope. Then again, some people are into that sort of thing....
|
|
|
|
|
lithiummetalman
Dec 10, 2007, 8:30 PM
Post #44 of 60
(3324 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 28, 2004
Posts: 286
|
In reply to: There has been more than one instance that I've felt like a jerk for making somebody suffer up the wide, albeit on toprope. Then again, some people are into that sort of thing...
As Emily Dickonson kindly puts it
"I like a look of Agony, because I know it's true"
& Naomi Wolf:
"Pain is real when you get other people to believe in it. If no one believes in it but you, your pain is madness or hysteria"
So I say share the pain with your seconds, partners, monkeys, etc, and watch them flail, swear, curse and bleed, cause I know deep down, I KNOW that you folks (and you know who you are) are enjoying the spectacle as much as I am!
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Dec 10, 2007, 8:40 PM
Post #45 of 60
(3318 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
iamthewallress wrote: Generator Crack. It's a right of passage. Like first love. Doesn't need to be the best in some objective sense to always retain a special spark. (Most Likely to Repeat.)
Almost entirely #2 camalots. Kinda impossible to call that a OW. Ok, there's a pod just off the ground. It's just a flared hand crack. If you've got tiny hands, it's a flared cupped hand crack.
In reply to: Best looking IC I've seen, but not tried that is not a 5.12 or 5.13 roof/overhang problem: Sucker Crack at Broken Tooth.
But it still has a roof. You should have gone around the buttress and checked out Mondo. It's big #4 friends most of the way, I bet most women would find that an OW.
For the best non-12 OW in the creek I'd vote for either "Have a cow" on the Sacred Cow Wall. It's about 80 feet of old #4 camalots during the meat. About 11c.
Or just to spray, this sucker is pretty cool. The only 5.11 I've ever had to throw a foot over the head on. That's me on the FA.
Best prospect for climbing an ow at present in spite of the spray: Uncle Fanny's Pantry. :-)
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 10, 2007, 9:31 PM
Post #46 of 60
(3300 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
angry wrote: Or just to spray, this sucker is pretty cool. The only 5.11 I've ever had to throw a foot over the head on. That's me on the FA.
You sure it's a 5.11, then?
Either way, it *does* look pretty cool.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Dec 10, 2007, 9:35 PM
Post #47 of 60
(3296 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
Oh, and easiest OW I've ever been spanked on: Unnamed(5.10+) on Blue Gramma. Worked me to the bone. That crack found and exploited every size I suck at.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
lemon_boy
Dec 10, 2007, 10:11 PM
Post #48 of 60
(3281 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2002
Posts: 287
|
hey john, did you have to invert on sucker crack? i had to. it still felt pretty hard (to me, i'm not that great at inversions) for 10+.
indeed, have a cow is probably the best non-radical (ie sub 12, non-circus trick) OW at the creek. absolutely stunning. it is kind of the logical progression of big guy, big baby, and then have a cow. i kept thinking i might get a knee in it, but kept getting hosed. amazing line.
mondo is awesome as well. it was mostly too big for my fists, so i had to OW a lot of it. it was a good size (tight) for arm locks and stuff, so it wasn't too bad up there.
some of my favorite OW's:
South Platte:
Harvey's Crack on Scorpio Dome. 4 Pitches of grinding.
West Face of Cynical Pinnacle. another long one.
Bishop Offwidth. Leaning and harder than it looks, but if you figure out the trick it isn't too bad.
Lumpy Ridge:
Crack of Fear. the benchmark for 10d OW. also, the first pitch is a good benchmark for 9 OW.
Wolf's and Tiger's Tooth(s)
Gollums Arch
etc, etc. lumpy has a lot of greal OWs at all grades.
Indian Creek
Have a cow. awesome route, requires patience.
Sucker crack. adequately named as i've seen a lot of people underestimate it and get shut down
French fried, res wall, good long 4 camalot flake. never a line on it.
Big guy, pretty line, straight forward, not too difficult. good beginner OW.
Caterpillar, cat wall, fun OW, nice line, never a line.
Dancing shoes, the wall, goes from 00 metolius to 5 camalot. good little route.
etc, etc, creek has a lot of them.
Escalante Canyon:
Braveheart, splitter hands to fist, goes to OW corner and out a 15' 45 degree OW roof. strenuous.
Amplitude, FA did triple alternating inversion. angry got second ascent, but i think he tackled it straight on. complicated 4.5 camalots out a 6' or bigger horizontal roof. a total gut buster. you have to try pretty hard. totally killed me.
Reptilian Credential Check. another bombay out a big overhanging flake. strenuous and technical.
(escalante is the vedauwoo of the desert, but a lot looser, dirtier, and more rattlesnakes)
Vedauwoo (where to begin?):
Jay's Solo, the ultimate route to sandbag someone who thinks they are a solid 5.10 climber. even better if they think they are an 11 or 12 climber.
Bad Girl's Dream, this one really puzzled me. cool route.
Big Pink, the ultimate route to shut pretty much ANYBODY down. this thing is the definition of motherfucker. i haven't seen anybody send this, despite watching guys who onsited Lucille and other horrific routes try it. this one erased my left nipple.
etc, etc, etc. vedauwoo has removed a lot of my skin and a lot of my pride over the years.
some other ones i remember.
ixtalan (3rd pitch), red rocks, good splitter ow with good position.
traveler's buttress, lover's leap. good beginner ow as it has a lot to work with and isn't too difficult.
split beaver, squamish, fun OW without too much complication. good one for learning 4 camalot techniques.
etc etc etc. i love ow's. hard to pick 3 favorites.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Dec 11, 2007, 1:04 AM
Post #49 of 60
(3268 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
angry wrote: iamthewallress wrote: Generator Crack. It's a right of passage. Like first love. Doesn't need to be the best in some objective sense to always retain a special spark. (Most Likely to Repeat.) Almost entirely #2 camalots. Kinda impossible to call that a OW. Ok, there's a pod just off the ground. It's just a flared hand crack. If you've got tiny hands, it's a flared cupped hand crack.
If Generator is 2 camalots then I'm really, really....really tiny.
For other little people like me looking for some microscopic knee-chimney action, I recommend Bridalveil East. You know the pitch.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Dec 11, 2007, 1:15 AM
Post #50 of 60
(2742 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
jaybro wrote: Where, exactly is sucker crack, mel.. is it in blooms?
It's to the left of Rock Lobster at Broken Tooth. The guide calls it "Pussy Wuss Crack" which I hate and evidently issn't the name anyway (nor is sucker). Here's a post from the FAist (Jim Howe) copied from mountain project.
"Tommie and I put that route up. I Intended to continue to the top but a chopper flake sits up there, and I never went back to it. It is definitely a sandbag. Quinlan and Jim Olsen did the second ascent and asked what I rated it. Under the influence of a superbowl tequila bash I said 10+,..It ain't. Where the name "pussy wuss" came from I have no clue. For me it was "the Incisor". up front and gnashing."
I thought it was amazing looking b/c of its curves. Didn't even notice the roof.
|
|
|
|
|
|
