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PatMcGinn
Dec 5, 2007, 10:05 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2007
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Other than push ups and using the hangboard, does anybody have any ways that they train for an upcoming comp?
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Myxomatosis
Dec 6, 2007, 12:25 AM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2007
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Perhaps deciding on what you want to train (most of us choose our weakest point and work from there).
Once you have worked that out, then you can use the search button and find a more specific answer for a very broad question.
But if you are training for comp's and have time limits, then choosing a training routine that lets you peak on the competition would be a very good idea.
Edit: And Push Up's and Fingerboard's I'd just forget all together 
(This post was edited by Myxomatosis on Dec 6, 2007, 12:35 AM)
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pseudolith
Dec 6, 2007, 2:14 PM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2005
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Train your core. Strong fingers are important, but a strong core often makes the difference between just hanging on a hold and moving off of it to the next one.
Train your lower body, too. Bodyweight single leg squats are pretty useful and applicable to clmibing. And don't forget your hamstrings. If you want to be able to throw a heel hook and really pull off of it, you have to get your body conditioned to do so.
Another exercise that I found really useful in preparing for the competition season is the hip adducter machine. You may not know it by name, but it's pretty much the gayest looking machine in the gym for guys to use. It's the one where you start with your legs spread as wide as comfortably possible, and then you squeeze them together against resistance. You may feel siily while you're on the machine, but you won't feel so silly when you use those hip adducters to pull yourself into a position to grab the finishing hold on the problem that puts you in first place at the comp.
And don't forget to work on your weaknesses. If slopers give you trouble, seek out sloper problems and work them like crazy. The more you try them, the better you will learn the proper body position to move to them and off of them.
Hangboard sessions, when done in moderation, may help you out wth contact strength. To get ready for this comp season, I did the intermediate hangboard workout on Metolius' website twice a week.
Good luck, and let us know how you do in the comps.
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c22
Dec 10, 2007, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2004
Posts: 195
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campus on 1/4" rungs.
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jto
Dec 10, 2007, 8:37 AM
Post #6 of 6
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 272
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first of all: what comp? bouldering, onsight, flash redpoint, push ups, running?
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