Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
equalette
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


8flood8


Dec 6, 2007, 12:23 AM
Post #1 of 11 (3032 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436

equalette
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

can i use 5.5mm titan spectra for an equalette?


Arrogant_Bastard


Dec 6, 2007, 12:23 AM
Post #2 of 11 (3030 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994

Re: [8flood8] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

It's your funeral


ja1484


Dec 6, 2007, 1:31 AM
Post #3 of 11 (3000 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: [8flood8] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

8flood8 wrote:
can i use 5.5mm titan spectra for an equalette?


Not really. Clove hitches tend to slip in tech cord.


erick


Dec 6, 2007, 1:34 AM
Post #4 of 11 (2995 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2005
Posts: 191

Re: [8flood8] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

how abrasive-resistant is it?


ja1484


Dec 6, 2007, 2:22 AM
Post #5 of 11 (2963 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935

Re: [erick] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

erick wrote:
how abrasive-resistant is it?


Plenty...what's that got to do with it?


Arrogant_Bastard


Dec 6, 2007, 2:22 AM
Post #6 of 11 (2961 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994

Re: [erick] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

erick wrote:
how abrasive-resistant is it?

7.4


Jbitz


Dec 6, 2007, 2:27 AM
Post #7 of 11 (2958 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2006
Posts: 124

Re: [8flood8] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Titan cord will work, I also find that the cloves can slip a little and more difficult to tie to a biner. You need to cinch them down good.

7mm nylon seems to have the better attributes for a cordalette according to the article below and also in my opinion.

Titan cord is a compromise. You are shedding some of the bulk and weight at the expense of maybe more desirable characteristics.



http://www.xmission.com/...gh_Strength_Cord.pdf


8flood8


Dec 6, 2007, 3:34 AM
Post #8 of 11 (2908 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436

Re: [Jbitz] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

right on.

i was ordering some of this to sling my big bros and i have to order it in 6m blocks, so i was just trying to figure out what to do with the rest of it.

right on i'll just get some 7mm stuffs. that makes sense.

thanks for the input


sky7high


Dec 6, 2007, 4:00 AM
Post #9 of 11 (2892 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 15, 2006
Posts: 478

Re: [8flood8] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The report above does say that titan is the high-strength cord to substitute cordalettes, but it also says that a standard 7mm cordalette is the best of all. Besides, cordalettes retain almost all of their strength when tied, unlike titan.
That, combined with the extra cost and shortened life, makes me think I wouldn't use it. Not that I use nylon cord anyway, I like extra long tied runners made from 1 inch nylon tubular webbing.


shoo


Dec 6, 2007, 4:25 AM
Post #10 of 11 (2877 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 22, 2006
Posts: 1501

Re: [8flood8] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

There's also the very important stretch factor. Titan cord is quite a bit less dynamic 7mm nylon cord. Dynamic cord will tend to load the points of your anchor less suddenly.

This also even more vital in non-self-equalizing configurations, such as the cordellete, in which the piece nearest the power point will take much more of the load than the others unless there is a sufficiently stretchy material used.

For more info, check out Climbing Anchors by John Long


(This post was edited by shoo on Dec 6, 2007, 4:28 AM)


Jbitz


Dec 6, 2007, 5:21 AM
Post #11 of 11 (2851 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 14, 2006
Posts: 124

Re: [sky7high] equalette [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes, if I was going to pick a high-strength cord to use for the equalette or a cordalette for that matter it would be Titan cord. I would not have a problem using Titan cord either way. But, again I feel that 7mm nylon is a better choice or even 6mm for my use.

Also, based on the data in the article regarding the knots Titan cord might be better suited for a Cordalette or a Quad then an Equalette.

Here is another link where an experiment on cutting various cords was performed. Not very scientific, but interesting.

http://www.swaygogear.com/hotknife/default.html


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook