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knieveltech
Jun 28, 2007, 7:05 PM
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microbarn
Jun 28, 2007, 7:11 PM
Post #77 of 144
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that is some cool looking rock!
location???
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knieveltech
Jun 28, 2007, 7:13 PM
Post #78 of 144
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microbarn wrote: that is some cool looking rock! location???
That it definitely is. Given the URL for the image is
http://www.canyoneeringusa.com/utah/intro/0012x.jpg I'd have to assume it's somewhere in Utah but couldn't say for sure, I didn't take the photo.
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salamanizer
Jun 29, 2007, 6:19 AM
Post #79 of 144
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I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough".
Someone should definately replace it ASAP though.
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knieveltech
Jun 29, 2007, 1:37 PM
Post #80 of 144
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salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though.
RIP
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salamanizer
Jun 29, 2007, 8:19 PM
Post #81 of 144
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knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP
What is that,
Rapping on
Inadequate
Protection?
You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"
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knieveltech
Jun 29, 2007, 9:08 PM
Post #82 of 144
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salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"
True dat. Personally I'd pluck the damned thing out, clip it to my harness, then find something totally unrelated to rap off of.
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ja1484
Jun 29, 2007, 9:22 PM
Post #83 of 144
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knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"True dat. Personally I'd pluck the damned thing out, clip it to my harness, then find something totally unrelated to rap off of.
Yeah...if you're going to bother backing it up, rap off the backup. I've left plenty of webbing/rings on rap stations that already had both, because I dunno where that stuff's been, and my life is worth more than ~$5.
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the_climber
Jun 29, 2007, 9:39 PM
Post #84 of 144
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salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"
You'd also be surprized how forces on the rap anchor can be much higher than body weight... Now I'll be the first to admit I've had to rap off of som enasty ass mankers, but rapping forces aren't just body weight. Direction of pull is quite important too.
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thedesertnomad
Jun 29, 2007, 10:30 PM
Post #85 of 144
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The canyoneering world tends to use anchors that climbers freak out on. It's amazing what a VERY controlled rap added with friction (especially. sandstone) will support. It's not nearly as scary when the rap is only 15 to 20 feet and the penalty is stinky water or possibly a carcass.
These are ones that even canyoneers don't like...
Those last ones are a joke obviously, I am surprised Rob was even able to girth that bad boy without breaking it!!!
When we use dubious anchors we tend to have a "meat anchor" back up for everyone but the last man (typically the best climber). We also tend to use lots and lots of partner assist down climbs.
B
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al_piner
Jun 29, 2007, 10:40 PM
Post #86 of 144
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Known as the Crusty Pizza Cheese anchor .
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thedesertnomad
Jun 29, 2007, 10:52 PM
Post #88 of 144
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the_climber wrote: thedesertnomad wrote: [image]http://canyoneeringusa.com/rave/0512freeze/nk08.jpg[/image] AAAAWWWWWWWwwww Hell no! not on that rock
Yeah, that was an ACTUALLY USED anchor!!! Thankfully there was a pothole lip below that added a little friction. I didn't meet the "user" of that anchor, but I certainly hope that he weighs about 65 lbs!!!!!
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ja1484
Jun 29, 2007, 11:03 PM
Post #90 of 144
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the_climber wrote: thedesertnomad wrote: [image]http://canyoneeringusa.com/rave/0512freeze/nk08.jpg[/image] AAAAWWWWWWWwwww Hell no! not on that rock
No kidding. I did a double take when I saw that.
"Is...that...sandstone?"
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salamanizer
Jun 30, 2007, 12:46 AM
Post #91 of 144
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the_climber wrote: salamanizer wrote: knieveltech wrote: salamanizer wrote: I wouldnt want to take a leader fall on that thing, but for rapping, if backed up probably would be "good enough". Someone should definately replace it ASAP though. RIP What is that, Rapping on Inadequate Protection? You'd probably be suprised what can hold body weight. But I did say "Backed Up"You'd also be surprized how forces on the rap anchor can be much higher than body weight... Now I'll be the first to admit I've had to rap off of som enasty ass mankers, but rapping forces aren't just body weight. Direction of pull is quite important too.
Na, I wouldn't be suprised. I've been the anchor in one particular situation. Talk about mank...
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the_climber
Jul 3, 2007, 4:39 PM
Post #92 of 144
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salamanizer wrote: Na, I wouldn't be suprised. I've been the anchor in one particular situation. Talk about mank...
Been there myself before too! It really sucked. On the upside, for my partner at the time, I'm a heavy MoFo.... But I will say it was one sketchy downclimb I had to do after... the joys of zigging when you should have zagged while caving
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kobaz
Jul 7, 2007, 11:09 PM
Post #93 of 144
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Not as manky as some others, but a nice and old piton in the gunks.
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knieveltech
Jul 17, 2007, 8:51 PM
Post #94 of 144
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Damn that thing looks crusty.
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marvinz
Dec 6, 2007, 6:20 PM
Post #95 of 144
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shrug7
Dec 6, 2007, 8:44 PM
Post #97 of 144
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Came across this top rope anchor while hiking out one day...
(This post was edited by shrug7 on Dec 6, 2007, 8:45 PM)
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billcoe_
Dec 6, 2007, 8:53 PM
Post #98 of 144
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It looks like some of the mank you find in Australia.
I have the queezy feeling I may have rapped on that one.
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hanginaround
Dec 6, 2007, 9:35 PM
Post #99 of 144
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Found at a undisclosed crag in Baja - be sure to notice the open chain link
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raymondjeffrey
Dec 6, 2007, 9:58 PM
Post #100 of 144
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Posts: 361
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That rusted anchor (as in the anchor of a big friggin boat) is funny. Very 'Far Side' like
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