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sumo
Dec 15, 2007, 9:19 AM
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Registered: Feb 28, 2005
Posts: 176
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Hello there island climbers
At the beginning of the year I will be moving to Oahu for a new job. I am looking to meet some regular climbing / training partners. I am open to anything and all types of climbing.
Thank you,
Sumo
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USnavy
Jan 10, 2008, 9:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
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I go climbing four times per week here on Oahu. We have top rope, sport and trad routes ranging from 5.6 to 5.13 to climb.
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theKeywork
Jan 22, 2008, 9:30 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 4
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Ah,
I have been looking for someone who lives in oahu. I am planning a trip right now for the end of february. Do you climb mainly at mokuleai? Hows the weather in feb? will a 60m rope be enough? (seems like a big wall) Any camping recommendations? I'm looking at the camp mokuleai place but would prefer somewhere more...secluded i guess. Is it crowded during the week? Any other advice or recommendations on spots to climb, hike, see would be great!
THANKS
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USnavy
Jan 26, 2008, 10:47 PM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
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I mainly go to the Moke because it has the best climbing. A 60m rope will be fine. The longest route requires about 55m of rope for top roping. The weather is fine year around here. You can climb in shorts and a short sleeve shirt any time of the year. You can camp on the beach if you want. People do it all the time. The beach is right next to the trail that leads up to the wall. The climbing area is not crowded during the week. Generally there is at most 4 people up there at a time during the week. Most people go out on the weekend. I have seen up to about 20 people on the weekend before. On average there is about 8 - 15 on Sunday and about 6 - 12 on Saturday.
I can show you around the climbing sites up there if you would like. I am free for climbing all the time.
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theKeywork
Jan 29, 2008, 5:51 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2008
Posts: 4
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Thank you for the advice. We will be in Oahu feb 23-mar 1. We'll probably hit the wall on sunday the 24. I'm shooting for at least 3-4 days at the moke and 1 day bouldering at waimea, interspersed with some r&r. If you want to hook up any of those days i'd definitely be down for some local advice, esp about the anchors and how to string the top ropes. What are the sport anchors like, just 2 bolts or do they have a slingshot style lowering chain? We have a lot of gym experience but absolutely no outdoor climbing experience (except some solo) and are hoping to learn a lot on this trip. Also is there a guidebook or route topo available online, or do i have to wait and see whats in the box? Any other advice on gear to bring or places to see?
thanks again,
-justin
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USnavy
Jan 30, 2008, 1:18 PM
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
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No there is not a guide book available but I can tell you the name and grade of any route out there (it’s listed on the route itself anyway). Every established sport and trad route is also set up for top rope so you can rap down using the top rope chains. The top rope anchors consist of two or three bolts with two or three chains leading to a large rap ring for a smooth decent. The climbing at the moke is quite "user friendly" so the transition from indoor climbing to outdoor climbing shouldn’t be too difficult. In many outdoor climbing areas you have to know how to do some anchor rigging and lots of other stuff but that is not really the case with the moke for you can string your rope up through the top rope anchors from the ground using a string system that has been put into place at the moke.
As far as gear goes, bring 12 quickdraws (the longest route has 11 sport bolts) (plus any you need to tie yourself into the anchors at the top), your slings, and any trad gear you might want to use if you do trad (some routes are mixed sport / trad), harness, 60m rope, exc. You don’t need any special rigging gear and anything you may forget or don’t have, I have.
I will be available to climb on the 24th, 25th, 26th, and part of the 29th.
Also I believe there are some other out-of-towners that will be up there around those dates. The beach is 1500 feet from the climbing area and you are aloud to camp on it if you wish. That’s where I would probably camp myself if I were to camp there. You are aloud to start fires on the beach too.
Plus a night swim in the Pacific Ocean right after climbing is very refreshing.
You can view a bit more info on the topic here: http://www.rockclimbinghawaii.com/
If you click my profile and look at my climbing log you can get somewhat of an idea as to what type of climbs we have. About 95% of the climbs in my log are from Hawaii.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Feb 2, 2008, 6:39 AM)
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