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estwing
Oct 19, 2002, 2:31 AM
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Registered: Mar 24, 2002
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Hi, how would you use this device to bring up your second? Would you run the rope through your anchor, and belay off your harness? Would you clip the controller to the anchor and belay off that, is it impractical to have to lock it off by pulling up? Or would you skip the controller altogether and just use a munter off the anchor?
Thanks for the help,
Sam
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stevematthys
Oct 19, 2002, 6:55 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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what is a "variable controller"?
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genlock
Oct 19, 2002, 7:37 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2002
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bringing up a second using a variable controller (ATC style), you`ll have to run the rope through the anchor, and belay from the harness. If you go buy a Reverso from Petzl, it works the same as the ATC plus a feature, another loop (rigid) on it`s side in fact, that let you hang it from the anchor and belay from it, and it gives you an auto lock mode.
- Genlock
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stevematthys
Oct 19, 2002, 7:41 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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oh ok, yea. unless you have something with a auto-locking function on it, you should run the rope through the anchor and onto the belay device on your harness. if you have something like a grigri then you can belay off the anchor
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rushjunkie11
Oct 21, 2002, 1:39 AM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2002
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I've brought up the second directly off the anchors a few times, but only when they are totally bombproof and i have no doubt in them at all. (usually bolts or a tree).
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lobito
Oct 26, 2002, 12:58 AM
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Registered: Sep 22, 2002
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Some time ago a climber told me how to bring up a second with just some slings and a biner. You'd have to pull only half of the weight - I think the setup was something like this (assuming you belay off your harness facing away from the rock, but it can be modified for other setups I guess):
Tie a runner to the strand of rope that goes to the second with some kind of friction knot (klemheist). Attach the other end of the runner to a biner. Now girth hitch another runner to your harness and pass it through the biner. Pulling on the other end of the runner you can bring up the second, using a force equal to half his/her weight (ignore any friction between runner and biner). This also gives some slack that you then pull through your belay device, lock, push the knot farther down and repeat.
Does this method work? Is is ever used? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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farmerc
Oct 26, 2002, 1:46 AM
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Registered: May 3, 2002
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What you are describing is a hauling system, for a second that can't get past a section of the climb for whatever reason, and you pull them up the climb. When others say "bringing up" they mean belaying the second as he or she climbs up.
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