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ggraham
Oct 21, 2002, 1:30 AM
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I thought it would be a good idea to try a 5.9 as my first Trad climb. The climb had a traverse about 1/3 of the way up. My inexperience with gear placement was obvious. The result was ending up 3/4 of the way up the climb with rope snagged on rock at the start of the traverse. So I had to down climb (BTW I can top rope 5.11a so I was not on the limit). Other than "try leading something more vertical/easier" what advice/straegies do you guys have for tradding traverses?
- Gareth
[ This Message was edited by: ggraham on 2002-10-20 18:34 ]
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rushjunkie11
Oct 21, 2002, 1:37 AM
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As far as the rope drag goes, clip your pro with long slings.
As far as other advice, remember that a fall on a traverse usually results in a pendulum swing, for you AND your partner. Place pro with both of you in mind and try to anticipate the direction a fall is going to swing you.
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madturtle
Oct 21, 2002, 5:01 AM
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Tradding a traverse eh ...
It is tricky sometimes, the most important thing is to plan ahead. Figure out where you are going to climb and where the protection is as early as you can, preferably when you are below the start of the traverse. You want to avoid running your rope at sharp angles so be sure to place long slings at the beginning and end of the traverse, that will round out the rope angles.
Also depending on how comfortable you AND your partner are with the difficulty level I try to run it out a little. If you place a piece 7-8 feet below the traverse then climb across 7-8 feet (or more) that significantly reduces the angle your rope runs at, thus reducing the drag. Same thing at the end, place your last piece well before you start heading upwards again and then place your next one as high up as you feel comfortable with. This will actually better protect your second since they will swing less in the event of a fall. You do not need a piece at the very end, it creates excess drag and makes your partner swing further if they fall.
You can also use double ropes so one rope isn't taking all the sharp bends and they both run a little straighter...or break the climb into more pitches...or just consider the rope drag training weight for pumpier climbs and up the grade a little.
Make sure you are placing gear before and after difficult moves on a traverse so you don't leave your partner out to dry swinging across the wall.
Another thing is try to make your last placement in the traverse multidirectional, not only for the swing but for upward pull. Stoppers have a nasty habit of getting pulled up and out when you start heading up after a long traverse due to the rope trying to straighten itself out rather than running the angles.
Congrats on your first trad lead. 5.9 is a stiff grade to start at no matter what you can toprope. Right on!!
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atg200
Oct 21, 2002, 5:48 PM
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repeat after me - TRAD IS NOT A VERB!
climb easier stuff until you are competent.
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jamison
Oct 21, 2002, 6:03 PM
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Madturtle hit the important thing...multidirectional. But do it more. When you start traversing, a piece that was set to take your fall when you are near it, will likely be pulled a different way by the rope if you fall on the next or later pieces.
Don't learn on traverses. Have someone teach you. Learn on straight up lines.
Have fun.
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cologman
Oct 21, 2002, 6:25 PM
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Everyone has pretty much hit it on the head. The only thing I would add is constantly monitor your rope. If it appears the rope is going to get drug into a corner or crack as you round soemthing manage it accordingly. A recent trip accross the "Vector Traverse" in the Black Canyon pointed this only to clearly when the rope after rounding the end of the traverse was inadvertently pulled into the crack followed by the traverse. Some minutes were spent freeing this. Only constant attention to slack and rope managementwould have prevented it. Sometimes it is just an, Oh well!
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billcoe_
Oct 21, 2002, 7:26 PM
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Everybody has this well covered, but it struck me that yesterday I was climbing with a guy I've climbed with almost 20 years, on an relatively easy (hard 5.9 crack) route we had each done years before. On the 3rd pitch (up 200+ feet off the deck) I advised him to check for rope drag twice in one pitch.
Sooo... adding to the advice: get an experienced partner. He-she would have
A) told you to get on an easier climb.
B) advised you not to do a traverse. - and -or
C) helped explain where the best pro was and when to runner.
Regards and BTW atg, is TRAD a Noun, adjective, adverb, preposition??? help.
Bill
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atg200
Oct 21, 2002, 7:43 PM
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trad is an adjective.
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stevematthys
Oct 21, 2002, 8:06 PM
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put long runners on the placements, and make sure you protect the traverse well for your second
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ggraham
Oct 21, 2002, 10:55 PM
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Thanks to those of you who gave positive advice. No thanks to the "Milk Monitor".
As I wrote in the opening comments, I don't need to be told to climb something easier. After that episode I'm well aware that I should have done something easier. No brainer really. Inexperience. I just wanted to get advice for some time in the future.
Thanks again....
[ This Message was edited by: ggraham on 2002-10-21 16:33 ]
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tanner
Oct 21, 2002, 11:33 PM
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Also since the second will be cleaning the gear. Try to place the gear in places where it will be easy to get the gear out. Because often time if it a muli-pich climb the second will have a pack on and it could increase there chance of a fall if there fittling with a nut that was placed in a poor stance. And a pack full of gear won't help much.
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joemor
Oct 22, 2002, 12:08 AM
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when you are about to start the traverse dont place a corner piece instead place a piece below where the traverse starts and just after it begins so th rope doesnt do a 90 degree turn, this will help dramatically.
joe
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greatgarbanzo
Oct 24, 2002, 8:20 PM
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Man... oozingpustule article looks great!!!
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