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euphoricclimbing
Jan 8, 2008, 7:03 PM
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I recently had a friend give me a duffle bag full of old climbing goodies(my friend doesn't climb). His uncle bought and used the equipment only once in the late eighties - 1987. A receipe from REI was inside the bag as well. Anyway, the most interesting itmes are 2 ropes. Mammut and chouinard - both coiled and look to be in perfect condition. I inspected them by uncoiling and recoiling, checking the rope for sheath damage and/or core damage. They looked perfect - no dirt on my hands at all. I thought of using them for gym climbing and maybe toproping. What do you think??
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sspssp
Jan 8, 2008, 9:13 PM
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Certainly the safest thing to do is to throw the old ropes away (and never rock climb again ).
Climbing gear manufacturers are always very conservative in their recommendations (and why shouldn't they want you to throw gear away and buy something new?).
However, if it is a thick rope (10.5+mm) and there appears to be no damage to the sheath and no soft or flat spots when you run the rope through your hands, then I personally wouldn't have a big problem using it for a toprope (I wouldn't lead on it, even in a gym).
However, there are certainly plenty of climbers who would absolutely refuse to do so and will give plenty of dire predictions about the results. Most would probably also point, reasonably enough, is saving the cost of a new rope really worth it?
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stymingersfink
Jan 8, 2008, 10:15 PM
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euphoricclimbing wrote: What do you think??
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billcoe_
Jan 8, 2008, 11:03 PM
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euphoricclimbing wrote: I recently had a friend give me a duffle bag full of old climbing goodies(my friend doesn't climb). His uncle bought and used the equipment only once in the late eighties - 1987. A receipe from REI was inside the bag as well. Anyway, the most interesting itmes are 2 ropes. Mammut and chouinard - both coiled and look to be in perfect condition. I inspected them by uncoiling and recoiling, checking the rope for sheath damage and/or core damage. They looked perfect - no dirt on my hands at all. I thought of using them for gym climbing and maybe toproping. What do you think??
Do whatever you'd like, it's a free country.
I wouldn't climb on them.
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coastal_climber
Jan 8, 2008, 11:24 PM
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sspssp wrote: new?). However, if it is a thick rope (10.5+mm) and there appears to be no damage to the sheath and no soft or flat spots when you run the rope through your hands, then I personally wouldn't have a big problem using it for a toprope (I wouldn't lead on it, even in a gym).
Either it's safe enough to use for all climbing, or don't use it at all.
>Cam
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chossmonkey
Jan 8, 2008, 11:41 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: Either it's safe enough to use for all climbing, or don't use it at all.
I would probably use those ropes for TRing or for rapping and cleaning new routes. Ropes mostly loose their dynamic properties as they age. They are probably much fatter than ropes of similar diameters and possibly shorter than when they were cut in the factory because of the fiber tightening.
If you have doubts don't use them.
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coastal_climber
Jan 8, 2008, 11:58 PM
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Rope, being one of the only non-redundant pieces of gear we use should be well looked after and retired when appropriate.
My thoughts, but I think they are pretty good.
>Cam
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euphoricclimbing
Jan 9, 2008, 12:10 AM
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Alright, I am definitely not climbing on them, but the rope rug might work? Thanks, Ryan
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Adk
Jan 9, 2008, 12:29 AM
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Well it is 20 y/o rope and probably will not catch you quite like a new rope. Not saying they won't work though.
I wouldn't use them because I know it hurts when you deck!!
I would use them for other non-climb projects. They make great clothes line in an attic, hang deer wonderfully and are great when you just need a rope to tie stuff down in a tornado. (never been in a tornado though)
You see where I'm going...
It's all about trust when if comes to gear. If there is a question, in that there obviously is, then you should not use it. IMO
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knudenoggin
Jan 11, 2008, 8:28 PM
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In another current thread there is the report cited by UIAA's Pitt Schubert
saying that old ropes (even) don't break in use, and can be safely used
for TR until the sheath wears through. I think your idea of limited use
is right on.
As for that assertion of "either <all or none>",
note that "static" ropes have been used well for a long time for TR,
and certainly aren't used for leading.
*kN*
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texasclimber
Jan 11, 2008, 8:54 PM
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knudenoggin wrote: In another current thread there is the report cited by UIAA's Pitt Schubert saying that old ropes (even) don't break in use, and can be safely used for TR until the sheath wears through. I think your idea of limited use is right on. As for that assertion of "either <all or none>", note that "static" ropes have been used well for a long time for TR, and certainly aren't used for leading. *kN*
Read the thread I started called "rope Breakage". The article from the UIAA should help you decide what to do with ropes that are merely old, but in good shape.
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gunkiemike
Jan 12, 2008, 3:15 AM
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Euphoric - check your PMs.
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jt512
Jan 12, 2008, 3:42 AM
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euphoricclimbing wrote: I recently had a friend give me a duffle bag full of old climbing goodies(my friend doesn't climb). His uncle bought and used the equipment only once in the late eighties - 1987. A receipe from REI was inside the bag as well. Anyway, the most interesting itmes are 2 ropes. Mammut and chouinard - both coiled and look to be in perfect condition. I inspected them by uncoiling and recoiling, checking the rope for sheath damage and/or core damage. They looked perfect - no dirt on my hands at all. I thought of using them for gym climbing and maybe toproping. What do you think??
No way would I climb on them; not even on toprope. One useful thing you could do with them would be to donate them to someone with drop-testing equipment. A perennial question is how safe are old unused ropes, and little hard data on the subject exists. You have an opportunity to help answer the question.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Jan 12, 2008, 3:43 AM)
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jermanimal
Jan 12, 2008, 4:18 AM
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jt512 wrote: euphoricclimbing wrote: I recently had a friend give me a duffle bag full of old climbing goodies(my friend doesn't climb). His uncle bought and used the equipment only once in the late eighties - 1987. A receipe from REI was inside the bag as well. Anyway, the most interesting itmes are 2 ropes. Mammut and chouinard - both coiled and look to be in perfect condition. I inspected them by uncoiling and recoiling, checking the rope for sheath damage and/or core damage. They looked perfect - no dirt on my hands at all. I thought of using them for gym climbing and maybe toproping. What do you think?? No way would I climb on them; not even on toprope. One useful thing you could do with them would be to donate them to someone with drop-testing equipment. A perennial question is how safe are old unused ropes, and little hard data on the subject exists. You have an opportunity to help answer the question. Jay
I second that.
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