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CMTomasetti
Dec 21, 2007, 2:44 PM
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Just a heads up for anyone in the Pittsburgh area....
The University of Pittsburgh is having a bouldering comp on Feb. 16th and will be donating all proceeds to Conservacion Patagonica. This is a group dedicated to creating National Parks and Wildland reserves in patagonia.
This is a really cool cause and we'd love it is you came out to support it.
Check out there website:
http://www.patagonialandtrust.org/
Video about the project:
http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/patagonia.go?assetid=27528
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microbarn
Dec 21, 2007, 4:12 PM
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made clickable:
CMTomasetti wrote: Just a heads up for anyone in the Pittsburgh area.... The University of Pittsburgh is having a bouldering comp on Feb. 16th and will be donating all proceeds to Conservacion Patagonica. This is a group dedicated to creating National Parks and Wildland reserves in patagonia. This is a really cool cause and we'd love it is you came out to support it. Check out there website: http://www.patagonialandtrust.org/ Video about the project: http://www.patagonia.com/...nia.go?assetid=27528 |
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microbarn
Dec 21, 2007, 4:26 PM
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you could also probably get this listed in the 'events' section of this webpage. I think it will be displayed on the front page then. That should be some good publicity.
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charley
Jan 1, 2008, 12:20 PM
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Happy 2008 folks. It is twenty some degrees outside this morning with howling winds gusting as high as twenty five mph. That does not sound like a good day to climb. Have a great year.
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microbarn
Jan 1, 2008, 8:44 PM
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yes, happy 2008.
Anyone got any climbing in yet?
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truello
Jan 2, 2008, 5:44 AM
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I just spent 5 hours at Ralph Wilson stadium in Buffalo for the Winter Classic and then 6 hours driving back (it usually only takes 3.5 hours).
I just want to be inside and warm 
Oh yes and Happy 2008
(This post was edited by truello on Jan 2, 2008, 5:44 AM)
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mountainman
Jan 2, 2008, 7:49 AM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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My great Christmas ice climbing adventure
I haven't ice climbed since March, so I wasn’t in the groove. I had to really think about how to dress, and what to bring for the greatly varying conditions. I still screwed up. I should have taken my triple gore tex shell for the extremely wet conditions, but I lucked out.
It turned out to be unusually warm. The highs were in the thirties, and it was very wet. The ice was dripping. There were violent snowstorms.
Another problem was I hadn’t flown since September. I went out to the airport the week before to pump up the tires, top off the fuel tanks, check the oil, stick foam plugs in the vents and plug in the engine heater.
It was fairly warm for Christmas, and the day after I went out to the airport late morning. My forecast was good, and it was a Visual Flight Rule day. I loaded my gear, fired up, taxied out and off I went, into the wild blue yonder! In only 3.1 hours I landed in the very deep hole of Lake Placid, New York.
Thursday, December 27 was our first day. We drove towards Whiteface Ski Area. and hiked steeply through the snow and over giant boulders to the base of Multiplication Gully. The approach was pretty exhausting. We had to wait a bit for the guys in front of us, but soon made our way up the first pitch to the nice belay area. We had done this a couple years ago, when there was far more ice. The second pitch was very demanding, very steep and intimidating.
We’d only taken my 70 meter dry rope, so had an adventure descending, but we made it and hiked out. It was snowing very hard, but the temperature was above freezing, so it wasn’t stressful.
The rope fell out of my pack on the way down and I had to go back for it. Luckily it wasn’t far. We drove farther into the boonies and hiked through the snow to Chiller Pillar. There was only one line climbable, so we walked around and set it up. I used my X Monsters, but was really tired, and pooped out at the top. We got very wet, as the snow was falling relentlessly. We dragged ourselves out, and had a very slow trip to the Cascade Inn, as there were weenies going 15 MPH and a bad wreck also.
It’s always a joy to settle in to the Cascade on an ice climbing trip. Dry the gear out, cook dinner, hot showers, good sleep. It’s the place.
The next morning we headed down to Chapel Pond. It was even warmer, and I believe the high was 37°! We did the first pitch of Crystal Ice Tower again, then went over and did two pitches of Chounard’s Gully. It was wet, slushy and pretty easy. It would be tougher in cold conditions. We walked down and looked at Lions On The Beach and Hot Shot, but there were busloads of guides and noobies, all over the ice. We went to Pitchoff Right and did a couple lines until dark. They are nice and steep. Adam had forgotten his androids in the car, so he used my Hugh Banner Spitfires and pronounced them excellent. However, a violent rain storm with giant wind gusts came around midnight.
Saturday morning, Will came by. We drove down to Pitchoff Left and climbed a few lines. Since it had rained all night, the ice had been blasted down a bit, then went back to the car to eat a few sandwiches. It led to a talk about whether we should climb some more or hit the road, and me to the sky. We decided to leave, as we’d had two great days of climbing, and Saturday was pretty poor.
At the airport, Will used the tool to remove a little snow on my wings while I packed up. Due to the warmth, there wasn’t any ice to deal with. The clouds were at about 4000 feet, so I decided to take off under visual rules. I stupidly turned south into the mountains, as I thought I saw a clean line. I flew into a box canyon, and was just able to fly over the ridge without going into the icy clouds.
However, I kept going south without leaving the mountains behind, which I don’t understand, until I tried to go over a ridge and suddenly entered the clouds. I couldn’t see anything, so gave it full power and climbed, announcing to Boston Center that I needed an Instrument Flight Rule clearance. I didn’t crash into anything, but was really shook up, and after a few thousand feet of ice, was above all the clouds and into bright sunshine. I was in the clear all the way home, but I had 50 MPH of headwinds and it took me about 4.5 hours to get home. Luckily, the ice in the clouds had gone by the time I got to Pittsburgh, then I descended without picking up any ice and landed at Washington County without any problems.
I must admit, I should have gotten a IFR clearance before leaving Lake Placid, and not tried to kill myself, but I learned a lot from that experience.
(This post was edited by mountainman on Jan 2, 2008, 7:51 AM)
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charley
Jan 2, 2008, 1:23 PM
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Nice report. It is always nice when we can learn something and live.
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microbarn
Jan 2, 2008, 1:39 PM
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thanks for the detailed report mountainman!
Sounds like an excellent trip. Good luck having a few more trips like that this winter.
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migelpalmero
Jan 4, 2008, 12:58 AM
Post #1510 of 2156
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Registered: Dec 20, 2006
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referring to your december post Truello if no one told you Krahlick is currently closed to climbing... the area is owned by a lumbering company who has leased it to a hunting club that wants no one climbing on the rocks... I know several guys who belong to the club and they have confirmed that the crag is off limits until further notice... anyway no way you'd find the rocks with that map... lol...though the rocks are easier to find than the lost crag, cause they are right off the road! a rarity for sure...
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truello
Jan 4, 2008, 3:30 AM
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I wasn't looking for the rocks because I'd rather just climb somewhere where I'm sure not to have issues. However I was just curious for the accuracy of Jae's map. I am glad that it makes it difficult, er.. impossible, to find the locations as that's not really the point of it. It's mostly just a trip planning map.
Thanks for the information and post though. Doyle I dream for the day I can fly to my climbing destinations... I am so jealous 
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mountainman
Jan 4, 2008, 3:34 AM
Post #1512 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Fly me to the Moon
and let me play among the stars
Let me see what life is like
on Jupiter & Mars..
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HarklessDO
Jan 5, 2008, 12:56 AM
Post #1513 of 2156
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Registered: Jan 29, 2007
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Hey guys this is an aside to any discussion going on but I thought some may be interested. I am probably taking a trip out to State College soon to pick up some climbing holds from Jim at synrock. He basically gives me 30-40% off for picking them up. If anybody is interested in getting some let me know and I can bring them back this way and save you some shipping and savings.
Have a good winter
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mountainman
Jan 5, 2008, 2:05 PM
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Registered: Jan 29, 2003
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Friday, 4 Jan 2008, a cross country ski day
Rayman & I drove up from Connellsville on 711 to 653, then up to the top. It was my first visit to the cross country ski area there. It costs $6.00. Mostly skiers were skating, but I used the track to kick and glide. The snow was pretty fast, the sun was out and as my body warmed up, it wasn’t so nippy. We were back by noon, so Rayman suggested we go to another place.
We went to the Bear Run Nature Reserve, on 381, 3 1/2 miles north of Ohiopyle. There wasn’t quite enough snow to cover all the rocks. We went up the wagon trail to ridge, then took the Rhododendron trail. The ground was too warm, and our skis were sticking badly. We bailed by taking the tree trail back, and headed to Ohiopyle.
The ski area there is off the Deer Lake road that goes out to route 40. We skied the Sproul Trails: 3.7 easy miles. These five interconnecting loops are just north of the Kentuck Campground, near the second overflow parking area outside of the campground.
This is fantastic terrain. Big drops and climbs, with extensive views and lovely views. As the day warmed, we ended up walking the last little bit out. Three big loops in a day. I felt it too.
Who knows what this thaw will do?
(This post was edited by mountainman on Jan 5, 2008, 2:11 PM)
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microbarn
Jan 5, 2008, 2:14 PM
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no room in an apartment for a wall. I will have to pass on the synrock for a few years.
I am very jealous you got out cross country skiing. I was STRONGLY debating heading out this morning, but you already said there wasn't quite enough on the ungroomed trails. I have been to the place you pay at, but I am tired of being around skate skiers when I am a kick skier. I also prefer the to visit someplace new to me when possible. I would gladly go out with you on a future weekend if you wanted to get in touch. Let's cross our fingers for more snow.
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chronicle
Jan 7, 2008, 3:13 PM
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Registered: Sep 26, 2003
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I tried to find Lost Crag on Sunday. We wound up walking all over the mountain and not getting any climbing in. We found some nice rock, a lot of needed to be cleaned, no bolts anywhere. Saw lots of ruffed grouse and after a while was wishing I had my shotgun instead of climbing gear.
http://www.climbpa.telerama.com/lostcrag.html wrote: Just before that building, take the gravel/dirt road to the right (the entrance has been narrowed down by using guardrail and is hard to miss). The dirt road will continue to follow Dunbar creek. Follow it approx. 1 mile to a large gravel parking lot on the left. Park your vehicle in the back right corner of the lot facing the large stones and the gas line. Time to hike: Get on the gravel/dirt road to the right of your car (the right of the 2 gates) follow it up a short steep hill and continue at a lesser grade for approximately 3/4 mile. Cross the wooden bridge. After the bridge, take the first road to the right. Hike up past the small animal food plot on your right until you come to a grassy field on your right. In the back left corner of this field you will find an old logging road. Hike up the logging road following the orange surveyors tape through several intersections. You'll climb over an old, LARGE, dead tree lying in the middle of the road. Continue up the hill until the road veers left and starts to parallel the hill. Hike apprx. 100yrds parallel to the hill and watch for a large stone carin on the right. At this carin you will find a short trail to the right. This trail leads directly to "Entrance Block". You are now at the Lost Crag.
Does anyone have any better directions to Lost Crag? Or can someone show me the best way in? We parked in the lower lot and couldn't figure out which grassy field the directions were talking about (we tried 7 different grassy fields).
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mountainman
Jan 7, 2008, 3:21 PM
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You tried to go the lower way. We used to go that way, but it's been a while. I'm not sure I could find it going that way.
Now everyone goes in the upper way, which start a few miles farther up the road. I don't think anything less than a guide will suffice to find it.
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truello
Jan 7, 2008, 3:48 PM
Post #1518 of 2156
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You may have found what some people call "Glacier Den." Tim had never heard it called that before when I asked about it, but I forget what he called it. I've never been there, but from what I've heard its similar to Lost Crag without bolts, but ~1.25 miles directly west of Lost Crag. I wouldn't doubt that there are other areas similar, also.
I sent you a PM with upper lot directions.
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chronicle
Jan 7, 2008, 4:04 PM
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Thanks for the PM. I'm going to try again this weekend, if the weather is decent.
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microbarn
Jan 7, 2008, 4:04 PM
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chronicle wrote: I tried to find Lost Crag on Sunday. We wound up walking all over the mountain and not getting any climbing in. We found some nice rock, a lot of needed to be cleaned, no bolts anywhere. Saw lots of ruffed grouse and after a while was wishing I had my shotgun instead of climbing gear. http://www.climbpa.telerama.com/lostcrag.html wrote: Just before that building, take the gravel/dirt road to the right (the entrance has been narrowed down by using guardrail and is hard to miss). The dirt road will continue to follow Dunbar creek. Follow it approx. 1 mile to a large gravel parking lot on the left. Park your vehicle in the back right corner of the lot facing the large stones and the gas line. Time to hike: Get on the gravel/dirt road to the right of your car (the right of the 2 gates) follow it up a short steep hill and continue at a lesser grade for approximately 3/4 mile. Cross the wooden bridge. After the bridge, take the first road to the right. Hike up past the small animal food plot on your right until you come to a grassy field on your right. In the back left corner of this field you will find an old logging road. Hike up the logging road following the orange surveyors tape through several intersections. You'll climb over an old, LARGE, dead tree lying in the middle of the road. Continue up the hill until the road veers left and starts to parallel the hill. Hike apprx. 100yrds parallel to the hill and watch for a large stone carin on the right. At this carin you will find a short trail to the right. This trail leads directly to "Entrance Block". You are now at the Lost Crag. Does anyone have any better directions to Lost Crag? Or can someone show me the best way in? We parked in the lower lot and couldn't figure out which grassy field the directions were talking about (we tried 7 different grassy fields).
Last time I went there was 3 years ago. So, take my directions with a grain of salt. When I went the lower way I didn't find the food plot. Just after the wooden bridge and following the next road to the right, we went into the first field on the right. I remember we had to walk up a short 4-5 foot incline to get into the field. The logger trail was actually easier to find in the back right corner of the field, but the trail boarders the field. So, you can catch it at the upper left corner of the field too. After you get on the correct logger road, it was easy to follow. The orange tape was still there at that time. Also, there seemed to be some guys putting in a pipe of some sort on the same trail. So, they had machines on the trail at the time. Lost Crag is essentially at the peak of the hill.
Too bad the peak is kind of a large flat area or you could just walk uphill and find it. This worked for Rob's Knobs.
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truello
Jan 7, 2008, 4:42 PM
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The "animal food plot" is that first marshy field you get too after turning right after the bridge. It confused us the first time we went too. We ended up bushwhacking straight uphill until we got to Lost Crag (GPS pointed the direction).
On the way back we realized that WAS the plot and we were just too anxious to find the next turn (usually the case). There used to be animal feed in that field when the original directions were written, but is long gone.
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chronicle
Jan 7, 2008, 5:31 PM
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I know the field you are talking about. We passed that and went all the way to the top without thinking twice. On the way down we saw that field again and thought, "Maybe this is it." But at that point it was late, and we were worn out from going up/down too many times.
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thewyseclimber
Jan 13, 2008, 7:02 PM
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Yesterday dvs and I took a friend of mine to Breakneck. 45 degrees and sunny, except I forgot that the main cliff faces primarily north. So much for comfortable temps in the sun. The rock sucked heat from our fingers faster than we could climb the super-short pitches. Nonetheless a good day. It had been since my last trip to the New, in November, since I had touched rock. All in all a good day. I discovered it's only an hour's drive from the East End, and we got a person out for the first time in PA. dvs was gracious enough to put off his hard NRG sending to burn some short routes with us lesser climbers.
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truello
Jan 13, 2008, 10:12 PM
Post #1525 of 2156
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Out of curiosity, other than being cold was it dry?
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