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colatownkid
Jan 16, 2008, 12:56 AM
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Firstly, I apologize in advance for the troll-ish nature of this post, but maybe the use of decent grammar and capitalization will help make up for it (though no guarantees about spelling.)
My spring break is about two months away, so I thought it would be prudent to actually plan out my expected climbing trip for the aforementioned time. I attend school at the University of South Carolina in Columbia, so the bulk of my climbing is done in North Carolina. I am looking to take a trip to some place that isn't North Carolina. (Which is not to say that North Carolina isn't awesome; I'm just looking to expand my palate a little bit.)
I am looking for a place between 2.5 and 8 hours away by car. Further, camping is pretty much required since I lack the liquid reserves necessary to lodge in those "finer" establishments run by Paris Hilton's dad. Beyond that, any place with trad in the 5.7 to 5.9 range and sport in the 5.10 to 5.12 range would suit.
With that being said, I haven't been completely lazy about this whole thing. I've been considering the New River Gorge, Red River Gorge, or maybe Obed in Tennessee. If you have any information about the pros and cons of such places, I'd love to hear them. If you know of equally interesting places within 8 hours (or maybe even 12, if it's really interesting), I'd also like to hear about them. Alternately, should I just say fuck it all and shoot for the Gunks/JTree?
Thanks.
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potreroed
Jan 16, 2008, 4:01 AM
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Potrero Chico!!!
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moeman
Jan 16, 2008, 4:27 AM
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First: no need to apologize for the post; this is as good a question as any.
So there are two major pieces of information that we need to know:
What type of climbing do you wish to do? Sport, Trad, Bouldering, or some of each?
When is your spring break? Late march weather is a lot different from early march in some crags.
As to destinations:
Forget the Northeast. Gunks might be climbable, but they will probably be cold. You will get much better/more reliable weather if you stay in the South.
The good mid-atlantic crags such as Seneca Rocks and/or the New might have good weather (especially by late March), or they could be snowy. If you hit it right it would eb great, but it is a crapshoot. My advice? Stay in the South.
Where should you go to find good weather and a change from your NC (granite) staples? Southern Sandstone is definately the way to go. The RRG would be great. If trad is your game, check out the Tennesee Wall and other crags around Chattanooga. I haven't been there, but I hear reports of nice camping, good sandstone and splitter cracks.
-Jon
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dan4geng
Jan 16, 2008, 4:33 AM
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The Red is the place to go for spring break. Here's why...
The food - miguels pizza is awesome... no better than awesome and its a good price
Cheap camping - $3 a night @ miguels + free camping is close by if you cant afford miguels
The climbing - Quality + quantity of both trad and sport and there is no fee for climbing... and a little known fact is that some of the best cracks on the east coast are at the Red
The scene - ok so besides the "spraylords"/beta-mimers the crowd there is usually pretty awesome... good nightlife and its easy to find partners
Close by - at least for you and me = less gas$
You can climb in the rain - yea.. most crags are overhanging
The climbing - the combination of quantity, variety and quality of climbing @ the Red cannot be matched.
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glacierskilledmyclimbing
Jan 16, 2008, 4:40 AM
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I live in Chattanooga and go to school here as well and can definitely say that camping is good here, climbing is great (T-Wall & Sunset for trad) then about an hour away or so is Foster Falls for tons of sport and Leda is about 20 minutes outside of Chattanooga. Also there is great bouldering at Little Rock City and Rocktown (both within an hour from downtown) hope that helps... good luck!
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glacierskilledmyclimbing
Jan 16, 2008, 4:41 AM
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P.S. the RED is also awesome for spring break, Great climbing and killer parties...
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mushroomsamba
Jan 16, 2008, 1:50 PM
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gunks may be a little far for you. but it has great trad...
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dlintz
Jan 16, 2008, 3:01 PM
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potreroed wrote: Potrero Chico!!!
Hell yeah, can't wait.
d.
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texasclimber
Jan 16, 2008, 4:07 PM
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dlintz wrote: potreroed wrote: Potrero Chico!!! Hell yeah, can't wait. d.
I love EPC as much as the next climber, but I think it might be a little more than 8 hours away by car. From Houston I remember it being quite the drive.
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zenelky
Jan 16, 2008, 4:36 PM
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I second Ed, EL POTRERO CHICO!!!
I got to help Ed last year when I was there over spring break. Goes to show that you never know what's going to happen in Mexico.
Ed, I really hope that you're feeling better and have been able to get back to bolting and climbing.
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colatownkid
Jan 16, 2008, 5:10 PM
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moeman wrote: When is your spring break? Late march weather is a lot different from early march in some crags.
My spring break is March 10-14, which makes it a little early. However, from what I can tell, Red River Gorge and New River Gorge are at roughly the same latitude. Wouldn't they both be equally likely to have poor weather?
moeman wrote: What type of climbing do you wish to do? Sport, Trad, Bouldering, or some of each?
I'm looking for moderate trad (5.7-5.9) and tough(ish) sport (5.10-5.12) Would I be correct in assuming that either Red River Gorge or Foster Falls/Tennessee Wall would fit the bill?
As for the Portrero Chico suggestions...thanks, but I'm pretty sure I'd be driving at least two days one way, and I'd rather not spend literally half of my break in a car.
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