|
mauiwater
Jan 15, 2008, 2:33 AM
Post #1 of 7
(903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2008
Posts: 7
|
We will be in Thailand and SE Asia and looking for good routes for a new climber. Is the Railay area good for a 5.7 - 5.9 climber? We are looking for something on the beach and easy access. Also looking to rent a boat and climb the pillars and sea cliffs where you can boulder and just fall in the water.
|
|
|
|
|
Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 16, 2008, 7:41 PM
Post #2 of 7
(831 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994
|
There are about two walls that have more than a route or two in that grade at Railay. If big guide groups and beta spewing don't bother you, hit it up. Or get out and do some climbing before then and get into 10s. That would open up your options significantly.
If you're going to see Asia, and do some climbing while you're there, fine. But if you're flying all the way over there to climb 5.7-5.9, seems a bit much IMHO.
|
|
|
|
|
Arrogant_Bastard
Jan 16, 2008, 7:43 PM
Post #3 of 7
(827 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 31, 2007
Posts: 19994
|
Just noticed you said that you will be there. As I said, if you're there, sure, there will be stuff you can climb.
Go to Wee's in Tonsai. $15 will get you a day trip Deep Water Soloing, with lunch. There's plenty of routes that have extremely easy climbing, it's all a matter of how high you want to get.
|
|
|
|
|
jemco
Jan 16, 2008, 9:01 PM
Post #4 of 7
(785 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 17, 2005
Posts: 77
|
There is plenty of moderate climbing in Railay, but be aware there are long lines at most of them. Some of the guiding companies use some easy walls for hours at a time, but there is lots of climbing available at nearly every level. When I was there (for over a month) my wife was very happy climbing in that range the whole time, but eventually she was able to work on harder climbs, things in the low 10s. Also, remember that the limestone favors powerful climbers most of the time. Have fun.
jemco
|
|
|
|
|
texasclimber
Jan 16, 2008, 9:07 PM
Post #5 of 7
(779 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 821
|
No matter your ability, you will find climbing in your range. If fat tourists can climb there for the first time ever, you can find something fun. As others have said, the lines might be longer than you would like and it will feel more like a gym than outside. Thailand is amazing and I would tell anyone with the chance to go....DO IT! It is the most amazing place I have ever been.
|
|
|
|
|
mauiwater
Jan 17, 2008, 7:22 PM
Post #6 of 7
(709 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 15, 2008
Posts: 7
|
Thanks for the information. Normally I would just set the routes and belay my girlfriend, but we have heard that a lot of the bolt placement is old and weathered and that hiring a guide the first time is recommended regardless of your ability. I don't know how much of this is fear based or trying to get people to hire a guide, but my girlfriend is new to the sport and I don't want to do anything to scare here away from it.
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jan 17, 2008, 7:39 PM
Post #7 of 7
(698 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
If you can lead 5.x comfortably here you can lead 5.x comfortably there.
The protection is different. Be sure you know the difference between a titanium glue in bolt (good) a stainless glue in bolt (ok) and an expansion bolt (dangerous).
Sometimes routes have all three right next to each other, and you have to pick the right one. Not hard if you know what to look for.
You will also clip threads, which is a loop of old rope tied around a hole in the rock. MOst are pretty bomber, but some older ones will be quite worn. They are easy to evaluate.
Have fun.
|
|
|
|
|
|
