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bigo
Jan 14, 2008, 6:06 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Mar 11, 2002
Posts: 237
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In reply to: I would almost wager that NO one on this site has had a single true FF2 fall as the UIAA defines and measures it.
Bill, it's funny you say that, years ago I cought my wife on a F2 fall on Jim Anglin's "Big Bad Wolf" at Wolf Rock. She was just reaching the first bolt on the second pitch when her hand hold broke - she fell right over my head and we had that slow motion, eye contact that conveyed the 'oh shit' of the situation. She was all fired up and pissed - ready to give another go; I on the other hand was ready to retreat. I don't know if it was a true UIAA F2 fall, but is suuuuucked to catch that fall. I became very intimate with the belay anchor... I still haven't been back to the route.
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texasclimber
Jan 16, 2008, 11:08 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 821
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bigo wrote: In reply to: I would almost wager that NO one on this site has had a single true FF2 fall as the UIAA defines and measures it. Bill, it's funny you say that, years ago I cought my wife on a F2 fall on Jim Anglin's "Big Bad Wolf" at Wolf Rock. She was just reaching the first bolt on the second pitch when her hand hold broke - she fell right over my head and we had that slow motion, eye contact that conveyed the 'oh shit' of the situation. She was all fired up and pissed - ready to give another go; I on the other hand was ready to retreat. I don't know if it was a true UIAA F2 fall, but is suuuuucked to catch that fall. I became very intimate with the belay anchor... I still haven't been back to the route.
I think it is pretty cool she wanted to keep climbing! It's funny, I have seen my wife run through a fire fight (in paintball), to a building window, and raise up to shoot a room full of 6 men, but she is afraid to take a big lead fall.
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texasclimber
Feb 6, 2008, 9:38 PM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 821
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After repeated emails to the President of the UIAA, I have not heard ONE WORD in response to this very important issue. I am frustrated to say the least. if anyone else would like to email him to see if you can get a response, here is his info:
Jean-Franck Charlet
jfkcharlet@hotmail.com>,
jean-franck.charlet@ensa.jeunesse-sports.fr
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roy_hinkley_jr
Feb 6, 2008, 9:51 PM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652
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Why should he reply for a complete non-issue to somebody he has never heard of? If you are intent on wasting your time, then at least go through the proper channels and contact your national UIAA rep, which is the AAC. Not that they give a damn about testing equipment but they at least have the right connections.
Or you could just shut up and climb.
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texasclimber
Feb 6, 2008, 10:03 PM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Jun 19, 2002
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roy_hinkley_jr wrote: Why should he reply for a complete non-issue to somebody he has never heard of? If you are intent on wasting your time, then at least go through the proper channels and contact your national UIAA rep, which is the AAC. Not that they give a damn about testing equipment but they at least have the right connections. Or you could just shut up and climb.
Hey Roy, thanks for your post. I should contact my local rep, but after speaking with a UIAA representative they forwarded my comment to the President. I guess they thought it was relevant enough to do so.
Since you obviously have all the known questions of the Universe answered, maybe you could answer this question instead of telling me to "shut up and climb". This issue has not stopped me from climbing (I climb 3-4 times a week), but it nevertheless is an important issue to me. If it isn't for you, post your dribble somewhere else!
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majid_sabet
Feb 6, 2008, 10:08 PM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
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roy_hinkley_jr wrote: Why should he reply for a complete non-issue to somebody he has never heard of? If you are intent on wasting your time, then at least go through the proper channels and contact your national UIAA rep, which is the AAC. Not that they give a damn about testing equipment but they at least have the right connections. Or you could just shut up and climb.
AAC is not a national organization like UIAA in Europe. AAC does not certify gear or climbing related product and has pretty much no authority, nor sets any climbing standards .
It is a Club
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dynoho
Feb 7, 2008, 12:38 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Jul 16, 2006
Posts: 285
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billcoe_ wrote: "Ropes age due to use"? What the hell does that mean ...in exact terms? Did the German in the UIAA artical above say or suggest that old, never fallen on but perfectly cared for used ropes were tested as well? Or were these tests on brand new, perfectly stored ropes? I am looking forward to Texasclimbers post of their response. Take care all Bill
I'm not sure if this applies, but Bluewater does test old BW gear. Here is a thread I posted awhile back that may be relevant to the current.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...;;page=unread#unread
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