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byrdherd
Oct 22, 2002, 7:52 AM
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Ive been climbing for about one year now and I can climb a steady 5 10 b/c ( sport ) now is there any book that can help me past this point or is there pretty much only beginer books?
[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-10-22 11:01 ]
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overlord
Oct 22, 2002, 9:41 AM
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there are some books with training tips, but nothing REALLY significant. try climbing with a climber that is better than you and also ask him about training and stuff. and heed his advice.
my fav book: Performance rock climbing by Dale goddard and Udo Neumann.
CLIMB ON
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jt512
Oct 23, 2002, 2:47 AM
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At 5.10a/b sport, you still have a lot of basic technique to learn. Any of the usual training books will have technique chapters. Heather Reynolds-Sagar's book might be one of the better ones.
I do like the advice, though, to find a partner who is better than you to climb with. Also, join a gym, if you don't already belong to one, and watch and mimic the moves that better climbers make. I'm always amazed that so many beginning to intermediate climbers fail to do this.
-Jay
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redpoint73
Nov 14, 2002, 11:59 PM
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Eric Hoerst's books are great: "Flash Training", and "How to Climb 5.12". He also has a new book "Training for Climbing", coming out December, 2002. Both books suggest various exercises, training schedules, and mental strategies. He has done tons of research with pro climbers, and doctors. He also explains/debunks many myths and misconceptions about training.
Don't be scared of "How to Climb 5.12". Its actually an excellent training book whether you are trying to do 5.9 or 5.13. Its really about elevating your level of climbing, regardless of the actual numbers.
You can check out his webiste for lots of training tips and previews/reviews of his books.
www.trainingforclimbing.com
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boardcrazzy
Nov 15, 2002, 3:44 PM
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Get on stuff you can't do. Never say, "I can't do this." Instead say, "I'm doing something wrong." and then figure out what it is. Books probably won't help you figure out what your doing wrong. Watching someone climb the route in question probably will.
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rockprodigy
Nov 15, 2002, 4:03 PM
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It's WAY to early for you to be thinking about training. You need to spend a few more YEARS learning technique and practicing skills, then worry about getting stronger. It's hard to learn technique from books, get some videos (Black Diamond in SLC rents them-much cheaper than buying). The best video for learning technique is Moving Over Stone, Moving Over Stone 2 is OK, but not as instructional. Another good technique video is The Art Of Leading, but it's more focused on crack climbing.
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tinyball
Nov 15, 2002, 4:51 PM
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I don't think any climber can go wrong reading Freedom of the Hills. Also Eric Horst's stuff is very instructional. It is always good to read instructional books so you can pinpoint good an bad habits people have when you are watching them climb. Of course, the author has to be competent as well.
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mattiem
Nov 22, 2002, 4:24 AM
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Rockprodigy, i couldn't disagree more. I have been climbing for about 7 months and have been using the training plan and tips from "Flash Training" and "How to climb 5.12" Much of the training in these books is training technique. As much as everyone touts "learn technique first" and "spend years on technique before training strength" you still need to be strong to climb. My technique isnt good i know that and i try to work on it but there is no reason for me not to get stronger while i wait for my technique to improve. Right now technique is definatley my biggest weakness and what is holding me back but strength training has helped me continue to push my limits until my techniqe catches up.
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styndall
Nov 22, 2002, 4:40 AM
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Don't worry about getting books. Do some bouldering. Here are the steps:
1. Boulder
2. Boulder harder
3. Get strong
4. Send your routes
5. Realize ropes are kinda dull and go back to bouldering
stephen
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varstar10
Nov 22, 2002, 4:55 AM
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Dude...I dont think they have a special book just about improving a 5.10 climber. All i can say is CLIMB. Get to the gym if you cant go out side. Bouldering a lot. And just be committed to the sport. If you want to be a solid climber fast. Climbing with people way better than you. Thats what made me progress much faster. Just give your arms and fingers a break. Dont do what i did and spend every waking moment climbing for like 6 months. You will end up getting hurt and may cause a little burn out. Well keep up the good work and stay focused...
Jon
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pbjosh
Nov 22, 2002, 5:37 AM
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mattiem - I really must disagree. As a 5.10 climber, technique will get your further than strength, minute for minute, dollar for dollar!
Something is going to limit your exercise - your body, your schedule, your wallet or your motivation or some combination thereof. Assuming you're hitting a limit, I think it's better to get as much of the time within that limit on the rock rather than working out.
josh
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mattiem
Nov 22, 2002, 6:11 AM
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pbjosh- i hit the rocks as much as time allows there is only so much sun and so many hours the climbing gym is open. I get in probably 15-25 hours of climbing time a week and still have extra juice to burn so weight training is an option for me and others in this situaion
I never said anything about not being on the rock. I never ever hit the weights instead of the gym, you guys misunderstood. I climb three or more days a week and on top of that i add in extra weight training. When i get home from the crags i do an hour or two of weight training. When at the climbing gym i climb things to target weaknesses, be it crimps or slopers or whatever. Also when at the gym i practice foot placement, gripping (just hard enough to stay on) and climbing fast (which is important when on long overhangs). Then when i get home from the climbing gym i again supplement with a weight workout. I'm not missing any climbing because of this but i do get some extra strenghh training. I agree that climbing is the way to get better at climbing but if you are climbing three or four days a week already extra weight training after climbing can help make you extra strong. For example when i get home from climbing i do all my antagonistic climbing exercises to balance my muscles then i do weighted pullups and frechies and a hard ab workout. Because of this extra training i can pull much harder then i could before, i can lockoff much longer and stronger and my body tension has improved greatly. There is no way you can tell me that this is hurting my climbing because i am seeing the positive effects that this extra training is producing. It doesnt matter if you climb 5.4 or 5.14 more body tension, pulling power and lock off strenght are NEVER a bad thing. Try it out i bet you will see improvements.
P.S. this is an intense workout you need to be in good shape and eat well and get TONS of rest so that you aren't weak and tired for your next climbing day. be careful and don't overtrain i've been there and its NO fun
[ This Message was edited by: mattiem on 2002-11-21 22:16 ]
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pbjosh
Nov 22, 2002, 6:24 AM
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mattiem-
I don't doubt that more strength can help anyone but I'll still argue (as will, probably, most people who've been climbing for a good while and climb pretty hard) that as a .10 climber you'll see more gain from technique training than strength training.
As an aside, and not directed at anyone on this site, I don't think there are nearly as many "10" climbers out there as claim to be. Old school says that if you're a 10 climber you're going to onsight .10d roofs, faces, slabs, fingers, hands, fists, OW, chimneys, you name it, most of the time. Most people I know have never onsighted 10d OW/chimney, no matter what hard grade they climb, my-not-so-hard-climbing-self included
josh
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rockprodigy
Nov 22, 2002, 3:30 PM
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"Rockprodigy, i couldn't disagree more. I have been climbing for about 7 months..."
Well then, now that the expert is here, I guess I'll just take my 13 years of experience and go home.
What you fail to realize (probably because of a lack of technique) is that climbing 5.10 doesn't require strength at all. It's all technique at that point. That's why 70 year olds, who have been climbing their whole lives can still send 5.10.
By focusing on strength training at such an early stage, you become dependant on it and you make it more and more difficult to learn proper technique.
The most important point, however, is that eventually you're going to burn out on training, so what's the rush? Why don't you wait until you NEED to train. Sure you could train a bunch now and go from 5.10 to 5.11, but why not wait until you can climb 5.11, then train to get into 5.12 or 5.13?
Just have fun for a little while, you have plenty of time to get burned out later....
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redpoint73
Nov 22, 2002, 3:37 PM
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Getting out and climbing as much as possible is definitely key, and watching experienced climbers is great. But I don't agree with all the people who are saying "don't read", "just climb stronger". These guys mean well, but I think they are forgetting how hard it can be when you are starting out. Progress can be slow in the intermediate levels, and training tips can really help. Besides, most of us can't climb ALL the time, and reading up is a great rest day activity (or something to do while in the car on the way to the crag!).
You can waste a lot of time practicing the wrong skills. I see a lot of mid-level climbers practicing routes that are way too easy for them, or other common trainig mistakes. Training books like Hoerst's help to focus the limited time you have at the gym/crag. Its true that you can't learn climbing skills and moves by reading, but the right knowledge will help you concentrate on building your skills in the proper manner and pace. There are also helpful nutritional tips, mental tips (fear, confidance), and exercises to prevent injuries and the ever-common "tennis elbow".
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stevematthys
Nov 23, 2002, 4:07 PM
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books will teach you shit. get out and climb more if you want to get better.
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thedude
Nov 23, 2002, 6:13 PM
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I agree, why read? Just climb.
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bishop
Feb 19, 2003, 8:55 PM
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Three things will improve your climbing;
1) Climb
2) Climb
3) more climbing
If you must read something
Performance rock climbing by Dale goddard and Udo Neumann.
How To Climb 5.12 by Eric J. Horst ( don't worry.... its for improvement all around... not just 5.12+)
:P
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