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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 23, 2002, 8:20 PM
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Just a quick poll - anyone here climb in 5.10 Newton's, and if so, what do you think of them? Thinking of picking up a pair as my 'trad' shoe.
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spydermonkey
Oct 23, 2002, 8:49 PM
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Get the 5.10 Spire instead. They are way better!!!!
spyder
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clmbnski
Oct 23, 2002, 8:53 PM
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I have them, they are a good trad shoe, I would say if they fit good, get'em. Mine are a bit loose in the heel so that is my only problem.
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rocknpowda
Oct 23, 2002, 8:53 PM
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I have em and love em, they are shaped kind of like a sport shoe but are stiffer like a trad shoe! They are my only shoe right now. When I put them on I knew they were the ones for me. Buy em if they fit.
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holmeslovesguinness
Oct 23, 2002, 9:02 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I've tried on a pair and they fit like a glove.
Sypder - why do you recommend the Spire? Right now I'm climbing in the La Sportiva Cliff (which I love except that they are starting to come apart) but wanted to try something a bit stiffer. Of course if I had the $$ I'd probably have about 10 different pairs of shoes...
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benkiessel
Oct 23, 2002, 9:06 PM
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whatever you do don't buy the spires. the newtons are way better.
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josher
Oct 23, 2002, 9:10 PM
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I have spires as my second shoe. They are really not so bad. My partner has the newtons as a second shoe and he loves them. They dont stretch so make sure they fit
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cloudbreak
Oct 23, 2002, 9:12 PM
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The Newtons are awesome. I climb more in my Anasazi's (lacers and velcros), but you can't beat the comfiness of the Newtons
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galf
Oct 23, 2002, 9:47 PM
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BTW,
they tend to stink like hell!
At least mine did a LOT more than my katanas.
Galf
(Still they're not quite as smell-prone as the 5.10 rock socks were)
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just_me
Oct 23, 2002, 10:05 PM
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I must concur! They do stink, as do my rock socks. I believe they have a liner in them, which makes your feet sweat on hot days, and then it tends to hold in the stink!
That aside, they make a great trad shoe. They are about all I wear right now. They are just stiff enough to climb cracks (without killing your feet), but not too stiff. They still have enough sensitivity so you can still edge.
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spydermonkey
Oct 24, 2002, 12:38 AM
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Its a wonderful shoe. It has a good hard sole, and a wonderful edge which holds to the slightest flake. I really like the C4 rubber sole and its a really, really comfortable shoe. It has a paded tonge and fits really nicely to my feet and don't cram my toes at all. Go try some on and you will agree that they are the best choice for your needs.
spyder
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bouldertoad
Oct 24, 2002, 1:01 AM
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The Newton's have been my trad shoe for about 2 years now and they are awesome. They edge beautifully and they smear quite well. I did buy them to small though since they do not stretch much but I can deal with the pain when I climb cracks in them. THe Spires are not even in the same league as far as edging goes or comfort in my opinion. If they fit your foot go for it!!!:):)
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nbrown
Oct 24, 2002, 1:20 AM
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They work good but i can't stand lace-ups
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spydermonkey
Oct 24, 2002, 5:42 AM
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Its all personal opinion, go with what feels right for you. Your the final say.
spyder
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freudian
Oct 27, 2002, 5:01 PM
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I have been climbing all this season in my size 8.5 Five-Ten Newtons. Here's my Pros N Cons:
Pros
: Great Trad Shoe
: Comfortable
: Easy to lace-up (very quickly)
: No Stretch, so fit them upfront
Cons
: Not great for Sport
: Soles are way to thick
: Very Insensitive
: The rubber slips alot *
: My foot SWIMS inside due to the lining
: My heal is always loose inside
: They SMELL REALLY BAD (heat and moisture activated funk due to the non-leather construction and lining
Notes:
I've gotten pissed off at these shoes more times that I can count. I slip quite often with these, even with a totally solid foot hold. somtimes due to the rubber and other times due to my foot slipping around inside the shoe.
I feel very unsafe in these shoes for anything really difficult with small foot holds.
-- I am used to Boreal Laser2's. I have two pairs of different sizes --
FREUDIAN
[ This Message was edited by: freudian on 2002-10-27 09:15 ]
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bouldertoad
Oct 28, 2002, 4:07 AM
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I can also agree that the lining inside the Newton does suck but I guess I have never had the problem of slipping inside the shoe since I sized them pretty tight hoping for stretch which did not occur. I alos ound them to be fine on small holds....but when i resole them soon i am gonna get some thinner rubber on them...
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