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socalclimber
Feb 13, 2008, 11:21 PM
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Could somebody please explain the following to me? I ran into one of our local Josh bretheren yesterday who told me a story that I am having a hard time comprehending.
Apparently this past saturday a few people brought an aluminum ladder and set it up against the start of Left Ski Track on Intersection Rock so they could set gear in advance on the route.
I am well aware of working a route, but this strikes me as stupid.
Thoughts?
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dingus
Feb 13, 2008, 11:22 PM
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Stupid. Smart. Depends upon perspective I reckon.
DMT
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epoch
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Feb 13, 2008, 11:23 PM
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You witnessed an extremely advanced form of stick clipping...
Which is teh lame.
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donald949
Feb 13, 2008, 11:41 PM
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Looks to be some more gear testing. Did they take any whippers?
But I like the idea, take a long extension ladder, and a long stick clip... Wait, thats top roping, I've done that. Nevermind.
Don
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socalclimber
Feb 13, 2008, 11:43 PM
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This is a possibility I had not considered. In fact if you had not mentioned it I would never have remembered. I'll be curious to hear the out come of this. Although, this was not the impression I received SECOND HAND from a fairly reliable source.
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Feb 13, 2008, 11:45 PM)
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baja_java
Feb 13, 2008, 11:43 PM
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Robert,
yes, that might've been Omega Pacific people getting a good look at that flared pod. they had said coming down to JTree that friday. maybe they did that on saturday instead. i had mentioned in an email to them a while ago that the pod isn't that high off the ground, that it might be possible to put a ladder up instead if they have lots of stuff to pass back and forth
Sean
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socalclimber
Feb 13, 2008, 11:47 PM
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Well that would certainly explain one of the oddest things I've heard in a while. I might have approached it differently, but hey, if this is indeed the case, so be it.
It certainly has some heads turning around here at the moment.
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Banks
Feb 14, 2008, 12:37 AM
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I saw them pull up last saturday. An aluminum ladder sticking out of a Mustang Convertible is definitely a weird look. I figured they were from OP, or at least was hoping they weren't using it as aid.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Feb 14, 2008, 1:08 AM
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Banks wrote: I saw them pull up last saturday. An aluminum ladder sticking out of a Mustang Convertible is definitely a weird look. I figured they were from OP, or at least was hoping they weren't using it as aid.
I heard the same from some people on Sat that said they just came from that side of the park and saw the mustang/ladder... but I don't know if it was just their opinion that they were from OP or they stopped and asked them.
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vegastradguy
Feb 14, 2008, 2:02 AM
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that almost had to be OP- i know they were going to try and cast the pod that caused the failure- which would be a pain in the ass to do ground up- but a ladder and a little bit of gear higher up would facilitate that nicely.
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socalclimber
Feb 14, 2008, 2:17 AM
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This would really make sense. Again I confess this approach never crossed my mind. When I was on SAR out here and did accident investigations I just dropped a rope from the top, rapped down with a gri gri and used my ascenders. Granted we were not attempting a plaster cast or what have you.
Interesting.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Feb 14, 2008, 2:19 AM
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vegastradguy wrote: that almost had to be OP- i know they were going to try and cast the pod that caused the failure- which would be a pain in the ass to do ground up- but a ladder and a little bit of gear higher up would facilitate that nicely.
How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared
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zeke_sf
Feb 14, 2008, 2:32 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: vegastradguy wrote: that almost had to be OP- i know they were going to try and cast the pod that caused the failure- which would be a pain in the ass to do ground up- but a ladder and a little bit of gear higher up would facilitate that nicely. How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared
They'll chip it out? Anyway, that pod is a danger that deserves to be taken out before people without aluminum ladders get hurt.
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skinnyclimber
Feb 14, 2008, 2:35 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: vegastradguy wrote: that almost had to be OP- i know they were going to try and cast the pod that caused the failure- which would be a pain in the ass to do ground up- but a ladder and a little bit of gear higher up would facilitate that nicely. How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared
A good question, I've been wondering how to do this since the whole cam-blowing-up-in-pod-on-left-ski-track issue came up.
I've considered:
make two or more casts and somehow place them together properly
There has got to be some kind of high tech gadget to get a computerized image of the thing... what this gadget might be is beyond me, but I suppose it would use some kind of electromagnetic radiation radar, etc.
Honestly this whole project sounds like it could be a lot of fun. Yes I'm a nerd and spending weeks creating a finite element or other computer model of this pod and evaluating various numerical solutions to the dynamic cam breaking problem would be great fun!!!
where can I sign up?
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vegastradguy
Feb 14, 2008, 2:46 AM
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: vegastradguy wrote: that almost had to be OP- i know they were going to try and cast the pod that caused the failure- which would be a pain in the ass to do ground up- but a ladder and a little bit of gear higher up would facilitate that nicely. How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared
well, that was the concern- Michael wasnt sure they could do it, but they were going to give it a shot. hopefully they could work out something to assist in their analysis of the failure...
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murf
Feb 14, 2008, 3:19 AM
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It was OP. It was also a couple of young guys I know. OP let the leader place a couple of pieces off the ladder. Then they cleared the ladder. The second couldn't get off the big foot. They put the ladder back for him to clean.
It was the source of jokes for everyone I know that saw them that day.
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skinnyclimber
Feb 14, 2008, 3:21 AM
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j_ung wrote: Funny how rumors start, eh? In reply to: How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared Soft silicon, instead of hard plaster.
Gosh... there had to be an easy solution didn't there..... I still think there could be some high tech gadget that...... ah forget it.
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zeke_sf
Feb 14, 2008, 3:29 AM
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murf wrote: It was OP. It was also a couple of young guys I know. OP let the leader place a couple of pieces off the ladder. Then they cleared the ladder. The second couldn't get off the big foot. They put the ladder back for him to clean. It was the source of jokes for everyone I know that saw them that day.
I don't see why convenience ladders are a source of amusement and derision for you. Elitist. You are too cold and callous for the likes of the kindly Mrs. Murf. I bid you good day.
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Arrogant_Bastard
Feb 14, 2008, 3:43 AM
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j_ung wrote: In reply to: How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared Soft silicon, instead of hard plaster.
I live in SoCal, I've felt silicon... it's really not that soft.
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epoch
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Feb 14, 2008, 3:59 AM
Post #22 of 33
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Arrogant_Bastard wrote: j_ung wrote: In reply to: How do you cast a pod... unless it is completely flared Soft silicon, instead of hard plaster. I live in SoCal, I've felt silicon... it's really not that soft.
Keep your silicon sheep out of this...
(This post was edited by epoch on Feb 14, 2008, 3:59 AM)
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moose_droppings
Feb 14, 2008, 4:15 AM
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I carry an aluminum #10 ladder on my rack for most places. If its sandstone, than a #10wooden ladder conforms to the rock giving more surface area contact, less likely to rip.
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fredbob
Feb 14, 2008, 8:33 PM
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We witnessed the "tom foolery" describe by Murf. And, it was OP (and they lent the ladder to the party who climbed it too).
At first we figured OP was trying to develop a new climbing specific ladder system. Some guidebooks are already proposing a L1, L2, L3, etc supplemental rating system to stay ahead of the this new development. But, that turned out to be (apparently) incorrect.
After the "climbers" did the route, OP was back with ladder and a silicon(?) substance of some manner to mold the offending pocket. They used what appeared to be thin tissue/plastic between the silicon and the rock. This fell out of the crack at least once.
The idea was to take the molded pocket/crack back to the lab to "get some real world testing data." I'm still not sure how "real world" a fake crack in a lab is. Yet, this may be better than the stuff they are using now -- particularly given the linkcam failure(s/?) experienced on this route.
Another amusing sideshow on an otherwise perfect 70 degree sunny day.
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