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majid_sabet


Feb 25, 2008, 10:25 PM
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An interesting anchor
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What do you know about this ?

[URL=http://imageshack.us]


shockabuku


Feb 25, 2008, 10:26 PM
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Re: [majid_sabet] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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1000 words.


onceahardman


Feb 25, 2008, 10:37 PM
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Four bolts. Too close together. I didn't measure, but I seem to recall that bolts should not be placed within 10 bolt diameters of each other. Looks pretty close.

Also, the bolts are placed next to a bomber nut crack.

I assume you are asking about the black *extender thingys*...I don't know anything about that. Do you?


Valarc


Feb 25, 2008, 10:40 PM
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This oughtta be good...

My guess: boy scout troupe practicing their knots :-D


Valarc


Feb 25, 2008, 10:43 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
I assume you are asking about the black *extender thingys*...I don't know anything about that. Do you?

If you look closely, the two main ropes are each attached to the power points by a cord tied around the rope in a prussik, looped thru the biner, then prussik'd onto the rope again.

I don't seem to recall seeing this one in Long's anchors book Crazy


onceahardman


Feb 25, 2008, 10:48 PM
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Re: [Valarc] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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In reply to:
If you look closely, the two main ropes are each attached to the power points by a cord tied around the rope in a prussik, looped thru the biner, then prussik'd onto the rope again.

OK. Thanks. well it looks like if the prussiks failed, the load would be taken up by ? Can you tell what the coil of black rope is attached to? It doesn't look like its into all of the bolts


zeke_sf


Feb 25, 2008, 11:04 PM
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It's really not hard, taking the tags out of the photos. I'm not even going to try and underhend what Majid is trying to ask us....


photoguy190


Feb 25, 2008, 11:11 PM
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I would say some sorta zip line or high line, non tensioning side of course. I'm leaning toward a zip line cause there are no tag lines or haul lines.


Partner epoch
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Feb 25, 2008, 11:22 PM
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photoguy190 wrote:
I would say some sorta zip line or high line, non tensioning side of course. I'm leaning toward a zip line cause there are no tag lines or haul lines.


That's what I see here.


dudemanbu


Feb 25, 2008, 11:28 PM
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Bomber.


majid_sabet


Feb 25, 2008, 11:34 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:
In reply to:
If you look closely, the two main ropes are each attached to the power points by a cord tied around the rope in a prussik, looped thru the biner, then prussik'd onto the rope again.

OK. Thanks. well it looks like if the prussiks failed, the load would be taken up by ? Can you tell what the coil of black rope is attached to? It doesn't look like its into all of the bolts


Let me help you boys out before you confuse yourself on this rig

This image came from climbing magazine on-line and it is for a highline. The two prussic are there as a tension overload indicators. At 8 kn each prussic will slip. There are four prussic there, two on each rope.

At 16 kn of tension per rope, prussic starts to slip which tell the guys on the other side that they are overloading the MA system and they should stop putting tension on the main line.

If you do not put the prussic there,you do not know how much you are pulling and when to stop on your MA.


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 25, 2008, 11:36 PM)


cintune


Feb 25, 2008, 11:43 PM
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So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what?


majid_sabet


Feb 26, 2008, 12:08 AM
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Re: [cintune] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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cintune wrote:
So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what?

Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything.


cintune


Feb 26, 2008, 12:15 AM
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How did they determine that the slippage occurred at 8Kn? Could you maybe link to the actual article now?


binrat


Feb 26, 2008, 12:18 AM
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MS:
Then that is not a kootenay highline then now is it.

binrat


majid_sabet


Feb 26, 2008, 1:03 AM
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Check the climbing magazine web, the image came from there.It says tyrolean .


Valarc


Feb 26, 2008, 1:16 AM
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Since Majid always refuses to directly link to sources and instead makes you go hunting for it, I'll provide the link to the article

http://www.climbing.com/...lashes/fixedblack04/


cintune


Feb 26, 2008, 1:32 AM
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Looks like they've got those prussiks rigged on both sides.



Also appears to be a two-line zip/tyrolean to get across the Gunnison down in the canyon, not a highline.


Carnage


Feb 26, 2008, 1:51 AM
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Re: [cintune] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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i feel like majid would have made a post to the extent of "you noobs are going to get yourselves killed" if he didnt know this had been designed by professionals.


trenchdigger


Feb 26, 2008, 3:11 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
cintune wrote:
So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what?

Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything.

Why do you think this belongs in a rock climbing forum?

And if you're pre-tensioning a highline system until your double prusiks begin to slip, you're doing something seriously wrong.

Why don't you take your SAR BS to the MRA forum? Or maybe Firehouse.com? Save RC.com for climbing related BS.


timd


Feb 26, 2008, 3:57 AM
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Majid, diagrams please.Wink


deltav


Feb 26, 2008, 4:07 AM
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This is a similar set up to a high line. The difference being that there is usually a MA of some sort to tension the system. The prussiks are there so if the system is over tensioned or overloaded then it will self adjust instead of completely failing. Prussiks slip at 7kn btw.


majid_sabet


Feb 26, 2008, 4:55 AM
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Re: [trenchdigger] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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Wink


(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Feb 26, 2008, 9:12 AM)


majid_sabet


Feb 26, 2008, 5:09 AM
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Re: [timd] An interesting anchor [In reply to]
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timd wrote:
Majid, diagrams please.Wink

Sure

How about these ?

[URL=http://imageshack.us]

[URL=http://imageshack.us]


tradrenn


Feb 26, 2008, 5:36 AM
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majid_sabet wrote:
trenchdigger wrote:
majid_sabet wrote:
cintune wrote:
So then there's still slack in the lines behind the prussiks that have "started" to slip? What good does that do? As soon as someone weights it they slip some more? Then what?

Since you do not know how far to tension the main lines, you start with a few feet of slack and once you start loading the mainline, the pruisk may slip but unevenly among the both lines. At some point, the tension on both lines becomes even and that is where you leave everything.

Why do you think this belongs in a rock climbing forum?

And if you're pre-tensioning a highline system until your double prusiks begin to slip, you're doing something seriously wrong.

Why don't you take your SAR BS to the MRA forum? Or maybe Firehouse.com? Save RC.com for climbing related BS.

So what are you, the VP of RC or something ?

Shut up and take notes you wanabee n00ber

He is way more useful then you are with your BS.

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