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rossyy007
Mar 9, 2008, 8:43 PM
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So im in the market for a new pair of shoes and im looking at the Anasazi verdes, sportiva barracudas and some others. My question is, should i be looking at these shoes or are they to advanced. i have been climbing for alittle over a year now (bouldering, sport, multi-pitch) and im in the 8-9 range. anyone have an opinion out there?
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ja1484
Mar 9, 2008, 9:00 PM
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Yes, they're too advanced 
Find some shoes that fit comfortably, and be happy. Skill is in the climber, not the footwear.
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tuna
Mar 9, 2008, 9:08 PM
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I do not believe there is such a thing as a climbing shoe that is to advanced.
Now there are shoes that are to specific for certain types of climbing.
As normal there are several forum post that go over this topic.
So to condense all that for you
try a few on which one fits the best that being the tightest but non constrictive and at the same time very comfortable. Laces or Velcro really makes no difference. Try them on pull on the heel does the shoe pop off those might not be the right ones for you.
there are different quality levels between manufactures.
An expensive shoe is not always the best and the same can be said for a inexpensive shoe.
ciao
Santana
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rogue10186
Mar 9, 2008, 9:40 PM
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I agree with JA, if you're in the 5.8-5.9 range right now, the barracuda and Anasazi verdes are probably not what you should be looking for, unless you're trying to get something for really steep really hard stuff.
I'm in the same range as you right now, leading up to .9s on sport, and following up to .10 on trad, and I've found that the five-ten galileos work great for the sport routes, and that five-ten spires are the best for all day trad (again in my limited esperience). If you did want to get a more "technical" shoe for trad, maybe check out the Pitons, or something by Acopa.
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ja1484
Mar 9, 2008, 9:54 PM
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rogue10186 wrote: I agree with JA, if you're in the 5.8-5.9 range right now, the barracuda and Anasazi verdes are probably not what you should be looking for, unless you're trying to get something for really steep really hard stuff.
Actually, I think you missed my point, but I can't blame you because rereading my post I see how it can easily misinterpreted.
Allow me to rephrase:
Many strong climbers have sent routes in the 13s in extremely basic footwear. I distinctly remember a Petzl poster a few years back that had Lynn Hill cranking on some .13 trad route in the Grampians wearing Sportiva cliffs.
Certain footwear is good for certain things, but shoes don't really make your life easier or harder until the high 11s, regardless of what kind of climbing you're doing. Below those grades, the moves just aren't difficult enough that it matters.
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josephgdawson
Mar 9, 2008, 10:25 PM
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No shoe is too advanced. If you have a foot that is on the thinner side, Sportivas should fit you well. On the other hand, if you have a wider fit, the 5.10s should fit you better.
Fit is probably the most important thing. I climb in Sportiva Barracudas and I love them. I think I have bought 7 pairs at this point and I have not bought another type of shoe since I bought my first cuda. They are versatile enough that I boulder, sport climb and trad/multipitch climb in them. I think they are best for climbing hard trad, but that is my opinion. I also do multipitch routes in them. Unlike other shoes, you do not need to fit them so you toe is really knucked for them to fit right. I fit mine so my toes are just slightly bent.
For what you are doing, if cudas fit you, I say get a pair. The only kind of climbing where I think they are a little deficient is for super thin edging (hard 11 slab) and hard overhung climbs where a downturned toe would really help.
I know what you mean about seeing the pros crank in cliffs and other less technical shoes. I recall watching one of the Huber brothers solo a 14 in a pair of mythos. I would not worry about that, they are pros. The rest of us need any advantage we can get.
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rossyy007
Mar 9, 2008, 11:31 PM
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Registered: May 16, 2007
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thanks all for the input, still unsure what shoe im going to get though... looks like a trip down to EMS is in order.
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MonkeyInTraining
Mar 10, 2008, 6:58 AM
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Just did my first 5.11a in my oldest most worn out shoes, a pair of La Sportiva Cliffs. You know these, they are the grey or blue lace ups they rent at alot of gyms. Cheap basic shoe designed to be comefortable. Works great. I have a pair of Evolve Pontas which are fine shoes. I use them for bouldering some. But those Sportivas I just lace up to perfect comfort and forget them untill I have to walk out, or even untill as I am walking out sometimes :oP
IMHO comfort is everything. If your feet arent happy it wont matter if you have arms like a gorrila and can campus a micro pinch for 10 minutes, your still going to be thinking about how soon you can take the shoes off. The best possible way to select a shoe is try on as many as you can in the two sizes closest to your regular shoe and then pick the ones that feel as tight as is COMFORTABLE. Not as tight as you can stand for 5 minutes in the store, not as tight as you think someone said they should be, but as tight as possible while still feeling like you can wear them all day. Get those I promise you will be happy with them.
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pro_alien
Mar 10, 2008, 3:08 PM
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MonkeyInTraining wrote: Just did my first 5.11a in my oldest most worn out shoes, ... IMHO comfort is everything.
Did you ever notice how shoes are at their best just before they are due for resoling ?
I agree on comfort, I can keep my shoes on all evening at the gym, or all day at the crag.
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overlord
Mar 11, 2008, 9:55 AM
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ja1484 wrote: rogue10186 wrote: I agree with JA, if you're in the 5.8-5.9 range right now, the barracuda and Anasazi verdes are probably not what you should be looking for, unless you're trying to get something for really steep really hard stuff. Actually, I think you missed my point, but I can't blame you because rereading my post I see how it can easily misinterpreted. Allow me to rephrase: Many strong climbers have sent routes in the 13s in extremely basic footwear. I distinctly remember a Petzl poster a few years back that had Lynn Hill cranking on some .13 trad route in the Grampians wearing Sportiva cliffs. Certain footwear is good for certain things, but shoes don't really make your life easier or harder until the high 11s, regardless of what kind of climbing you're doing. Below those grades, the moves just aren't difficult enough that it matters.
and i have seen a movie of one of the huber brothers soloing a .14 or somehing in mythos.
shoes do make a difference, but for most sub-.11 routes agressive shoes are the wrong choice, especially downturned ones  they will only make smearing more difficult and make your toes hurt. you will be better off with something more comfortable
but as for anasazis, i havent tried the verdes yet, but i wear pinkies on 95% of my climbs (switch to talons for really overhanging stuff).
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