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mr8615
Mar 14, 2008, 4:50 PM
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Ok, here's another what routes should we do thread. They're usually pretty damn helpful, so here goes.
My climbing partner and I are gonna be in Jtree and Red Rocks for the first 10 to 12 days in April. I'm confident leading up to low to mid 12 on gear or bolts here in the east (North Carolina, Obed, New, etc.). My partner is solid up to 11a leading and will follow whatever I can put up.
We're looking to do some long routes at Red Rocks and the classics at Jtree. Neither of us have been out there, we're psyched. Let us know what's gotta go down.
Mark
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drljefe
Mar 14, 2008, 5:49 PM
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The world is your oyster.
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krusher4
Mar 14, 2008, 6:14 PM
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thats true good advise.
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crackmd
Mar 14, 2008, 6:25 PM
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Don't miss:
Cloud Tower RR
Levitation RR
Running Man RR
Sunny and Steep Crag RR
Fiddler on the Roof RR
Illusion Dweller JT
Figures on a Landscape JT
Hot Rocks JT
Course and Buggy JT
Equinox JT (IMHO the best crack line anywhere and I've climbed a ton at Indian Creek, Boulder dudes)
Wangerbanger JT
Clean and Jerk JT
Leave it to Beaver JT
Rubicon JT
The list at JTree is endless. This doesn't even come close to skimming the surface.
Have fun!
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drljefe
Mar 14, 2008, 6:45 PM
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As a travelling climber with solid skills above 5.10, you should be able to pluck gems from both those massive areas. I would sample some sport climbing in Red Rocks before heading into the canyons. Don't rest- hit it hard. You only have 10 days. The Rio's buffet rules. In Josh, go straight to the Astro Domes before even thinking about anything else. Have fun and be safe. Don't forget the headlamp when you head into the canyons.
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mr8615
Mar 14, 2008, 7:15 PM
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Thanks for the replies, I'm pretty excited to get out west finally.
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drljefe
Mar 14, 2008, 7:18 PM
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Sunscreen and a gas card!
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UPRISING
Mar 14, 2008, 9:18 PM
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In case you are not familiar with the Vegas area, the Rio is not a climbing location; it is a hotel/casino. And it is indeed the home of the best eating experience in the locale. The buffet is a "world" buffet, as it offers popular cuisine from various countries. With unlimited calories at your disposal, you'll definitely want to go to this place for replenishment after some hard climbing.
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drljefe
Mar 14, 2008, 10:33 PM
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Thanks for clarifying that, UPRISING.
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theclimbergirl
Mar 15, 2008, 4:49 PM
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drljefe wrote: Don't rest- hit it hard ... Don't forget the headlamp when you head into the canyons.
I second drljefe... on our winter trip this year we climbed six days in a row at red rock and were tired, but the climbing is just too good to rest. And -- the headlamp advice is some to take to heart. We did a day at Oak Creek Canyon and my partner and I made it out before sunset but the rest of our party descended slabs by headlamp; even after they'd finished the long hike out, we could still see headlamps coming down the slabs. Pack in a puffy and lamp for the descents at RR, just in case!
Have a fantastic time...
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mr8615
Mar 15, 2008, 11:14 PM
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I've heard about the Rio's buffet, we'll definitely make a trip there if we make it to the strip. Thanks again for the advice!
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mountainstuss
Mar 16, 2008, 12:00 AM
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In J-Tree...
That's a great list that crackmd made. May I add to it a couple more favorites (also ultra-classics)
Exorcist
Room to Shroom
Heart and Sole
Sail Away
SW Corner of Headstone (so cool to go climb at sunset)
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reno
Mar 16, 2008, 1:49 PM
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Hands-Off is one of my favorite JT routes. Sucks a bit, being smack dab in the middle of the HVCG and all, but the route is a LOT of fun.
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drljefe
Mar 16, 2008, 3:47 PM
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...Touch and Go
EBGB's, Run For Your Life...
Crackmd and mountainstuss list is just dandy.
One day- Astro Domes
Another day- Campground ticks-a-plenty
Must do bouldering... White Rasta
Rest day? Desert Hot springs, watch girlfriends sobbing on Toe Jam. Hands Off is fun, and can be done while the waters boiling.
If there is a moon, Headstone at night is cool
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socalclimber
Mar 18, 2008, 1:18 PM
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Just a word of caution. Since you've never climbed here before, you might want start out on some of the low 10's to get a feel for the ratings. They can be a tad stiff.
Have fun, Josh and RR are amazing places!
(This post was edited by socalclimber on Mar 18, 2008, 1:21 PM)
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mr8615
Mar 18, 2008, 10:10 PM
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I've heard that about jtree, but it's also been said about NC so who knows. I'm planning on lots of climbs in the 10 range, just to be able to get a lot in. One thing I haven't heard is how stiff (relatively) the grades are in Red Rocks. Input?
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drljefe
Mar 18, 2008, 10:34 PM
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My friends and I always thought RR was fluffy..but we're from AZ. (This was pre- Jacks Canyon by the way.) Maybe it was just because the climbings so fun, and when you're used to granite, ultra featured sandstone is sweet. Prince of Darkness. Tax Man(JT). By the way- which area first?
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jt512
Mar 18, 2008, 10:45 PM
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mr8615 wrote: I've heard that about jtree, but it's also been said about NC so who knows. I'm planning on lots of climbs in the 10 range, just to be able to get a lot in. One thing I haven't heard is how stiff (relatively) the grades are in Red Rocks. Input?
Grades at RR are soft, especially the sport routes.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Mar 18, 2008, 10:45 PM)
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socalclimber
Mar 19, 2008, 2:32 AM
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jt512 wrote: mr8615 wrote: I've heard that about jtree, but it's also been said about NC so who knows. I'm planning on lots of climbs in the 10 range, just to be able to get a lot in. One thing I haven't heard is how stiff (relatively) the grades are in Red Rocks. Input? Grades at RR are soft, especially the sport routes. Jay
Yup, pretty much. RR is soft by Josh standards.
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socalclimber
Mar 19, 2008, 12:13 PM
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If you're coming in via SD, then Josh is your first logical stop. From here RR is only a 4 hour drive. Stop by Nomad Ventures in town to get directions for the back way.
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mr8615
Mar 19, 2008, 1:23 PM
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Josh it is then, some friends may want to meet up for that weekend too, so it works. Is Nomad in San Diego?
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socalclimber
Mar 19, 2008, 1:38 PM
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Nope, it's on the corner of Hwy 62 and Park Blvd here in Joshua Tree. Definately stop by there on your way into the park. If you have problems finding camp sites in the park, which you likely will due to the fact that it's spring break time, ask the folks at Nomad about The Pit. It's in town, and a alternative place to stay. One word of caution, don't leave things unattended there. Currently there are people staying there almost every day so you'll have some company, especially on weekends. If you have any issues there, let the folks at Nomad know and they will inform me. I'm the caretaker for the owner.
Have a good trip.
Robert Fonda
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chilli
Mar 19, 2008, 1:43 PM
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red rocks question...
my gf was recently in vegas and talking to some local about "red rocks," as we have both learned. to which he replied, "you mean red ROCK?" making very clear emphasis on the singular. what's up with that? the reason i ask, is because i'm always more apt to trust the locals when it comes to names than others. is this guy loopy? or are the red rocks in red rock? or is red rock some city?
thanks
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