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elwood54
Mar 25, 2008, 2:05 PM
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Hey guys,
Two questions:
1- Do either of the two Croatia guidebooks have DWS routes listed? Know where to buy these in the US?
2- Is traveling to Croatia for the first two weeks in August just a ridiculously bad idea because of hot weather, too many tourists and higher prices?
I'm looking for a cheaper alternative to France, and was hoping that the dollar would go a little further in Croatia...and it has DWS.
Thanks,
Mike
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no_email_entered
Mar 25, 2008, 2:20 PM
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i'm not sure about the guidebooks, but Hvar is where your gonna wanna go. a brilliant island, friendly people, cheap places to stay and eat. august will be mediterranean warm, but your surrounded by water. contact these guys for beta http://www.cliffbase.com/ar.asp?id=85
watch out for the eels-----
and the amazingly beautiful women----
oh and the hi octane brew----
[dam, time to go back]
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elwood54
Mar 25, 2008, 3:49 PM
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Thanks for the reply - sounds nice. I'll send them an email.
Any other tips on where else to climb (Paklenica)? Or other areas with DWSing within the country, maybe around Zadar?
Thanks again,
Mike
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qgmonkey
Mar 25, 2008, 9:21 PM
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who cares about the climbing?! let's go for the bewbs and brews! ...oh right, this is a climbing forum.
some links:
www.paklenica.hr – the most beautiful climbing area even in Europe protected as National park.
www.pp-velebit.hr – web site about biggest Croatian mountain that is protected as nature park.
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anna05uab
Mar 26, 2008, 3:11 AM
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Croatia will be around 95 degrees in August, but with low humidity. So deep water solo-ing might not be that bad.
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elwood54
Mar 29, 2008, 6:04 PM
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Ok, I'm won over. Just bought tickets last night. Now, can anyone tell me if the guidebooks list DWS routes in them? I'm wondering if I should pick them both up or not.
http://www.climb-europe.com/...idebooks_croatia.htm
Thanks everyone,
Mike
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Basta916
Mar 31, 2008, 12:40 PM
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Hvar is great, but I would stay away from north part of the coast in August, because it is usually packed with Italians with kids during that time...
just as an idea, plan going to Split, just outside is a Marjan (you can see it from a city), there you have good chance to meet locals and get some info on where to go.....Paklenica as a name tells you ( Pakao= Hell) that what it is in August, but you should plan to go and see it anyway, if you have time....have fun
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jgivens
Mar 31, 2008, 1:31 PM
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I have the Croatia Climbing Guide by Boris Cujic. Its a really awesome guidebook, as they go, with nice topos. As far as I know, it does not have DWS places in it. I think you need to talk to locals to find that stuff. I stumbled on to some in Dobrovnik. Most of the Dalmation coast is limestone cliffs, with plenty of DWS oportunity. Like mentioned before, Hvar is nice. Marjan Hill in Split is easily found, and walking distance from cheap rooms and hotels. In Split there is a climbing shop near the waterfront promenade, where I bought my guidebook. Also in Split you can catch the ferry to Hvar. A short drive from Split is Omis, which is really cool, with lots of multi-pitch limestone sport climbing right over the sea and river-mouth. Really beautiful. PM me if you need any other help. Good luck!
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leedaclimber
Mar 31, 2008, 9:53 PM
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i was planning a trip in August to Europe too.
Is Anica kuk too hot to climb in August?
Any suggestions where i can find a cool/shaded sport crag with routes in the 5.10- 5.13 range?
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tinica
Apr 12, 2008, 1:12 AM
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1) I've never seen these guidebooks in the US - get them at iglusport in Split. They're great for general climbing info, but they do not have DWS routes in them. www.dalmatia-climbing.net had some helpful maps of DWS spots, but the site doesn't seem to exist anymore.
I highly recommend visiting Komiza on the island of Vis; there are DWS spots at Porat on the islet of Bisevo, and also at Zelena Spilja, the Green Cave. In Komiza, find Pino at alternatura. If you like scuba, have the boys at Issa diving Centar take you out to the shipwrecks. Dinner at Konoba Bako and a "cocktel" at "Club Aquarius" get strong recommendations.
Another place for DWS right in Split is called Sustipan. Irena at iglusport can direct you from the shop. It's a park and sports center, with a fun DWS wall just past the swimming pool, with yachts coming into Split marina behind you.
Hvar is the best known island in terms of DWS, but you really can't go too wrong in the islands.
2) The last couple of years, it actually cooled off a little in August; the only place that ever seems crowded to me is Dubrovnik; the higher prices still aren't bad if you're comparing to France - but if you can go after the 15th of August holiday, many places actually lower their prices a bit. In a lot of places it's sort of their "end of season".
Traveling to Croatia is never a ridiculously bad idea.
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elwood54
Apr 16, 2008, 5:19 PM
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Thanks for all of your replies, especially tinica.
Yes, I have confimred that neither of the guidebooks have DWS routes listed. And the one website that did have a map ( http://www.dalmatia-climbing.net ) seems to be down (anyone know why? if its going to be back online? if the maps are available anywhere else?).
If anyone does have further information on where there might be information available online, or if you could email me, that would be great. I'm just hoping to spend as much of my two weeks there climbing and diving, and not looking for maps/topos!
Stay well,
Mike
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elwood54
Jul 16, 2008, 2:55 PM
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Hey guys, www.dalmatia-climbing.net is still down...I was wondering if anyone has been able to find topos online for DWS spots in Croatia...
Thanks for any help,
Mike
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vicky08
Jul 17, 2008, 7:38 PM
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Hey, im planning on going to croatia in september...whats the climbing like at zagreb?
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danicro
Aug 3, 2008, 5:21 PM
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Hi everyone! Once I saw this topic I wanted to answer to all questions. So I live in Split town in mid Dalmatia, paradise for dws and sport climbing.
Website you can look at is http://www.marulianus.hr/ but it's only in croatian language. Good news is that we are preparing site in English since the one you mentioned above is down.
All dws routes are mostly climbed from members of our club, and all news actually from dws is from those guys.
The best area for dws in Adriatic are Kornati archipelago, mid Dalmatia, and best area near Split is Ciovo island.
http://www.marulianus.hr/...task=view&id=556
Actually, almost every island here is having vertical cliffs on their south side, and we are called country with 1.000 islands!
Most friendly place for dws (not too high, and the routs are very nice, up to 7b) is Sustipan, west part of Split harbour very easy to reach. The best place to try this discipline for the first time.
http://www.marulianus.hr/...p;id=181&lang=hr
About climbing in Zagreb in September...not so good as here, you have to drive out from town to reach sport climbing crags.
If you have any questions, go for it!
Dani
(This post was edited by danicro on Aug 4, 2008, 9:20 AM)
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oeps
Aug 15, 2008, 9:17 AM
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hi rockfriend,
was reading your question on dws, but hope you found some answers already.
being a lover of croatia, and former climber myselve still like to help with info.
not being dws, but great sportsclimbing (even in the shade), go to http://www.climbingomis.com/
and spread the news.
lots of areas in croatia to enjoy, this one is close to the town of Omis (and the sea) and is compeletly bolted with sunny and shady tracks.
however being a dutchman, I have my hideway nearby, and just love the scenery of the Cetina Canyon.
have fun, Pim
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jimmypoland
Aug 16, 2008, 11:00 AM
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how do you people get to those DWS places? most of them are cliffs on the islands, do you hire boats or what? i really want to know, because i'm going to Zadar this month and i'd love to try some soloing.
jimmy (from poland)
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rocksteadyclimbing
Aug 16, 2008, 12:53 PM
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Hey Dani! How's the sun in Split? Can you please send some to London because my skin is beginning to look transparent!
Guys, I would say definitely look at the www.marulianus.hr website for latest routes in Croatia, especially DWS stuff. Dani and his crew is the best source for this!
jimmy, at Sustipan (Split) you should be able to access the DWS area on foot.
vicky, September should be good, but forget Zagreb... go down to Split where the action is. We were there last October and weather was perfect for routes as well as DWS.
Farez
Rocksteady Climbing Adventures
(This post was edited by rocksteadyclimbing on Aug 16, 2008, 12:56 PM)
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oeps
Aug 16, 2008, 2:51 PM
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hi there jimmie,
do contact some local climbers (info on many croatian sites).
they will certainly help you out, as Croatians love to share their excellent nature with visitors.
getting to those islands is easy with Jadrolinia on a regular connection to many of the islands.
and being there, thumbs up will get you to get to the DWS-spots.
have fun, pim.
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danicro
Apr 20, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Hi everyone, I just want to send link which may help you somehow with your questions about deep water soloing in Croatia/Dalmatia.
http://www.marulianus.hr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=58&lang=en
http://www.marulianus.hr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25&Itemid=56&lang=en
http://www.marulianus.hr/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=26&Itemid=57&lang=en
This web site presents activities from our club, and it's partially translated in english language.
I hope you will manage ;-))
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danicro
Jul 9, 2010, 1:43 PM
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There are some news about deep water soloing in Croatia!
This web site offers mini guides for deep water and for sport climbing in Dalmatia:
http://dalmatiaclimbing.com/
or
www.dalmatiaclimbing.com
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olkki
Aug 9, 2012, 9:25 AM
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Hi, I found this post being the most informative when looking around for guides about Croatia. We're a group going to Split next week. It looks really good with a lot of DWS. Will pick-up a guidebook in town when we arrive. As we are only there for 3 days is there a particular spot anyone would recommend? Hvar looks great but with so little time maybe it is best to not go out on a ferry? Thankful for all input!
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danicro
Aug 9, 2012, 5:21 PM
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Hi,
Well for three days you have plenty at Split area. Hvar is great and as you have sad it's a pity to be there just for a day or two.
Look, send me private message and I will give you my email and contact, so once you get here you can contact me.
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oneocon89
Aug 13, 2012, 7:09 AM
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Hi,
I'm on the island of Vis now and can't believe I didn't find this thread earlier! I've been looking for DWS areas all along the coast for the past week and I left Trojir 2 days ago!
Tried asking in one of the tourist agencies in Komina yesterday but unfortunately she couldn't give me much info... I've looked at the sites but was wondering if anyone had any details about getting to the DWS areas (Porat/Zelena Spilja)? The only info I can get locally is about what boat tours operate and I'd rather go at my own pace.
Cheers
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danicro
Aug 13, 2012, 8:05 AM
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Hi there,
For Zelena spilja and Porat you need the boat since both are located at nearby islands(maybe renting one in Komiza?. My advice is to try to get to Stiniva, it's reachable by car/foot and it is amazing location, great for deep water..
good luck and be free to contact me at any point!
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