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circello
Apr 3, 2008, 4:52 PM
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So I've heard (anecdotally) that using the middle/ring configuration is better because it keeps force more in the natural plane of your arm.
In most cases I end up using the middle/ring combination the most (although this is certainly sequence/hold specific)
However, my index finger seems to be much 'stronger' (anecdotally) than my ring finger. Do the benefits of the extra strength outweigh the more natural alignment of the middle/ring combination? Which do you use/prefer.
BC
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lena_chita
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Apr 3, 2008, 4:55 PM
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Ummm.. depends?
Thinking hard about it, I probably do use middle/ring combination more often b/c it feels more comfortable. But I never analyzed this specifically...
Oh, and I have a great advantage over most people-"the two-finger pockets" end up being 3-dinger pockets for me more often than not.
Edited b/c I realized that I said middle/index when in fact I meant middle/ring.
(This post was edited by lena_chita on Apr 3, 2008, 5:39 PM)
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flint
Apr 3, 2008, 5:03 PM
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Middle/ring is the better use because of the reason you stated. Basically keeping your skeleton strength of the middle fingers out ways the strength of your index because when your index is used it twists the alignment of the rest of your arm, making it less effective.
j-
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tedman
Apr 3, 2008, 5:15 PM
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middle/ring might be 'better' for those reasons, but your pulleys are way weaker in your ring finger than your index. Was doing 2 finger pullups, index/middle. no problem....thought I could do a middle/ring, *pop* *pop*. was climbing with pinky/ring taped together so I wouldnt use my ring fingers for 2 months! And it should be noted that im a skinny guy, 155lbs full clothed and dripping wet.
Granted hopefully your full weight isnt on your fingers on a given route, but dont lose your feet with just your middle/ring in pockets!
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petsfed
Apr 3, 2008, 5:32 PM
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At my strongest, I preferred middle/ring because I could pull so much harder with those two fingers. It lined up the forces so much better.
Since I'm on the injured reserve at the moment though, I'm favoring index/middle.
If you want to talk just in terms of strongest finger, use your thumb.
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WVUCLMBR
Apr 3, 2008, 5:34 PM
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I like to go with 3 fingers. Typically 2 in the pink. And then 1 in the stink.
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circello
Apr 3, 2008, 5:45 PM
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Killfile ftw!
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keegan540
Apr 3, 2008, 6:00 PM
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WVUCLMBR wrote: I like to go with 3 fingers. Typically 2 in the pink. And then 1 in the stink.
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taydude
Apr 3, 2008, 6:28 PM
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i always do mid/ring unless i can manage 3 fingers. idk bout the pulley popping thing. Ive been climbing 3 years and can do mono pullups on my ring fingers. i may just have crazy strong tendons though.
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DaliLama
Apr 3, 2008, 6:39 PM
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3 years of climbing is not enough to have "indestructible" pulleys. It will catch up with you if you don't watch it... trust me.
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icyfrosty
Apr 3, 2008, 7:02 PM
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WVUCLMBR wrote:I like to go with 3 fingers. Typically 2 in the pink. And then 1 in the stink.
That's only effective when you have two pockets.
Ok honest to God question:
With or without Chalk?
(This post was edited by icyfrosty on Apr 3, 2008, 7:04 PM)
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shockabuku
Apr 3, 2008, 7:04 PM
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I find that middle/ring seems to fit most pockets better than middle/index because the way the joints line up and the direction of pull. So I mostly use middle/ring. When I get a pocket that fits middle/index I use that just to give the other finger a rest. But most of the pockets that I pull on are plastic and may be biased that way.
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steady_climbing
Apr 3, 2008, 7:06 PM
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WVUCLMBR wrote: I like to go with 3 fingers. Typically 2 in the pink. And then 1 in the stink.
Word I believe thats the "Shocker"
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reg
Apr 3, 2008, 7:32 PM
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i just pulled down on a bookcase with my middle/ring and the ring felt weak - me: stronger with index/middle but i can't really speak to finger pockets as i've never climbed a route with them.
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kyleshea
Apr 3, 2008, 7:49 PM
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circello wrote: So I've heard (anecdotally) that using the middle/ring configuration is better because it keeps force more in the natural plane of your arm. In most cases I end up using the middle/ring combination the most (although this is certainly sequence/hold specific) However, my index finger seems to be much 'stronger' (anecdotally) than my ring finger. Do the benefits of the extra strength outweigh the more natural alignment of the middle/ring combination? Which do you use/prefer. BC
the middle and index fingers have potential to be the stronger duo, but it must be trained to achieve this. as a non climber, when does the ring finger recieve such a stress that it needs to be built up? most likely almost never, so its weak. the pointer is initially stronger due to the fact it gets used more.
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hopperhopper
Apr 3, 2008, 9:26 PM
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i like middle/ring better because they are closer to being the same length so they both can pull more evenly, and it feels better (stronger). someone told me it was better to use index/middle because of some kind of reason pertaining to pulleys and how index/middle spreads it across mulitple, while middle/ring are both on the same one...or something..? i have no idea.
i've noticed a lot of people at the gym cringe when they see me use middle/ring.
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kriso9tails
Apr 3, 2008, 10:12 PM
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It's really going to depend on the pocket, my body position and the move, the hold, and the possibility of a thumb catch of any sort.
In most cases it's going to be middle/ ring, but on many shallow pockets, long cross-over, moves requiring tension in upper core and chest, dynamic movements into the pockets and anything I want to (more or less) dead hang from it's going to be middle/ index for varying reasons.
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justroberto
Apr 3, 2008, 10:21 PM
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steady_climbing wrote: WVUCLMBR wrote: I like to go with 3 fingers. Typically 2 in the pink. And then 1 in the stink. I believe thats the "Shocker"
You're only supposed to use three fingers for that?
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kriso9tails
Apr 3, 2008, 10:37 PM
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justroberto wrote: steady_climbing wrote: WVUCLMBR wrote: I like to go with 3 fingers. Typically 2 in the pink. And then 1 in the stink. I believe thats the "Shocker" Wait... You're only supposed to use three fingers for that?
I was under the impression that the thumb should be involved; other wise I find it somewhat less manageable on my inflatab... on my 'girlfriend'.
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tnchief
Apr 3, 2008, 11:26 PM
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My buddies and I have often talked about this. After watching many people climb and looking at their hands, we have come to the conclusion that most people prefer to use the finger that is closest in length to the middle finger. The two closest matching fingers provide a more natural position (particularly with an open hand grip) and thereby creating a a stronger grip.
I still prefer to use middle/ring even though I snapped a pulley tendon in both (left and right) ring fingers years ago (about 6 months apart). It hurts like hell. My advice, warm up thoroughly and DON'T SHOCKLOAD!
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chossmonkey
Apr 3, 2008, 11:53 PM
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circello wrote: So I've heard (anecdotally) that using the middle/ring configuration is better because it keeps force more in the natural plane of your arm. In most cases I end up using the middle/ring combination the most (although this is certainly sequence/hold specific) However, my index finger seems to be much 'stronger' (anecdotally) than my ring finger. Do the benefits of the extra strength outweigh the more natural alignment of the middle/ring combination? Which do you use/prefer. BC
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macblaze
Apr 4, 2008, 12:19 AM
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hopperhopper wrote: i like middle/ring better because they are closer to being the same length so they both can pull more evenly, and it feels better (stronger). someone told me it was better to use index/middle because of some kind of reason pertaining to pulleys and how index/middle spreads it across mulitple, while middle/ring are both on the same one...or something..? i have no idea. i've noticed a lot of people at the gym cringe when they see me use middle/ring.
i like middle/indexbetter because they are closer to being the same length so they both can pull more evenly, and it feels better (stronger).
Really, it has a lot to do with finger lengths...
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irregularpanda
Apr 4, 2008, 1:05 AM
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macblaze wrote: hopperhopper wrote: i like middle/ring better because they are closer to being the same length so they both can pull more evenly, and it feels better (stronger). someone told me it was better to use index/middle because of some kind of reason pertaining to pulleys and how index/middle spreads it across mulitple, while middle/ring are both on the same one...or something..? i have no idea. i've noticed a lot of people at the gym cringe when they see me use middle/ring. i like middle/indexbetter because they are closer to being the same length so they both can pull more evenly, and it feels better (stronger). Really, it has a lot to do with finger lengths...
i TRY TO ALTERNATE BETWEEN THE TWO. i ALSO LIKE TO TALK VERY LOUDLY, CAN YOU HEAR ME YET? i DO THIS BECAUSE OF HOW MANY TIMES i'VE INJURED MY RING FINGER, BUT FOR ME ITS NOT THE PULLEY, IT RIPS THE FASCIAL TISSUE ABOVE MY WRIST.
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Myxomatosis
Apr 4, 2008, 1:41 AM
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I have done ton's of pocket climbing and find that your index and middle are 9 out of 10 times the best combo.
Most pockets are easily turned into side pulls once your feet are in the right position. Its alot easier to crank off your index in that situation... well for me personally.
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