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zealotnoob
May 1, 2008, 5:10 PM
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Damn, it's nice to see some hard trad climbers from the NOVA/DC area...
I've read trip reports that made the Harding Route sound exceptionally burly and sketchy. Do have expereience otherwise?
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brutusofwyde
May 1, 2008, 5:50 PM
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petsfed wrote: brutusofwyde wrote: Sounds to me like the best option is to do long climbs with short approaches. Red Rocks, Zion, Fishers, and Yosemite fit the bill there. Wait, what?! If you've never climbed in the Fishers, or done a lot of aid climbing, I'd avoid attempting many routes in a day there. The rock is incredibly crumbly, so you need to learn how to move before you try to move fast. Ancient Art will go quickly since its mostly free, same with a few others, but most are sustained, tricky aid. You have to learn what the rock will hold before you cast off into the abyss.
Yup, I was thinking of ancient art and a few others.
As far as Harding Route -- Yes, it is a climb of a lifetime. But doable in a weekend. Mine may have been one of the trip reports you read. I would venture to say that it is not a good early season climb, but it can definitely get better/more stable weather than -- say -- the Diamond.
Brutus
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cchas
May 5, 2008, 4:22 AM
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Red Dihedral on the Hulk can EASILY be done in a day car-car. It would be best flying to Reno and driving down to Bridgeport to do this.
As for the altitiude change in the Sierras I'd say it depends on how you acclimate. I used to go from the Bay Area (sea level) all the time and never had an issue.
I didn't notice at what level you are used to, and how many pitches in a day are reasonable. For some people 35 pitches are reasonable and for others 10pitches (such as the E Butt of Middle Cathedral) will involve a bivi, or if you are comfortable with cracks, OW's, runout faces...... Such info would be helpful when people are making suggestions
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donald949
May 5, 2008, 10:35 PM
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A number of people mentioned Flying to Reno, but not the climbing in Tahoe. Lover leap being one popular option, all be it not technically Alpine. Cruise the data base here for more info.
Don
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scuclimber
May 5, 2008, 11:22 PM
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donald949 wrote: A number of people mentioned Flying to Reno, but not the climbing in Tahoe. Lover leap being one popular option, all be it not technically Alpine. Cruise the data base here for more info. Don
Yeah, the Leap is definitely amazing. But, as you said, it's not "alpine." And it's also not "long." 3- or 4-pitch routes v. the ~8- to 10+pitch routes mentioned elsewhere in this thread.
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zealotnoob
May 6, 2008, 12:23 PM
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Well, I'm definately not in the 35 pitch category and my alpine resume is short.
-The Diagonal III 5.8 on Wallface in the Dacks
-The North Ridge III 5.6 on Mt Conness
-The Monzino Route V 5.10 650m on Torre Norte in Paine
-Taller del Sol V 5.10+ 600m on Torre Norte in Paine
-Bulgarian Route 6a 450m on Aguja de la S in El Chalten
The longer the better, up to 5.10.
(This post was edited by zealotnoob on May 6, 2008, 1:38 PM)
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0x2102
May 6, 2008, 2:02 PM
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How about looking south? Not alpine, but not an all day plane ride either:
Whitesides NC
Laurel Knob NC
If you're looking for long rock routes, doable in a weekend, there ya go...
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zealotnoob
May 6, 2008, 2:08 PM
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It is an epic drive however. I would like to check those places out. Laurel Knob is the place that jsut opened, right? Any must-do routes?
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altelis
May 6, 2008, 2:09 PM
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as someone from dc, who loves alpine, and has dealt with trying to get my fix as often as possible, i would suggest a different game plan.
you've got the experience to know that planning a weekend trip REQUIRING a weather window planned from far in advance is a recipe for a lot of not climbing. you are asking for a lot of not climbing
i would suggest hit seneca, the daks, the gunks, conway, etc as much as you can. get mileage in. use the long drives as a sort of training for long days/weekends. when you get to your destination put in as many pitches as you can between dawn and dusk. figure out massive linkups, preferably with some hiking between routes to keep you moving.
save your money and your time off work. than just take a long trip (at least a week). good weather, awesome, you'll be in shape and can climb a bunch of big routes. bad weather, hopefully you'll have a least one climbing day.
i think you'll also find that expenses are LESS if you don't try to rush the logistics. weather is so important and so volatile in the alpine its not worth pushing a weekend window unless you don't need to pony up for a plane ticket.
by the way, i moved back to dc from slc recently and am jonsing to climb. you ever need a partner (i do it all, boulder, trad, sport, alpine, aid....), drop me a pm!
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cchas
May 6, 2008, 2:20 PM
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You would definately LOVE the Incredible Hulk then. The setting is gorgous, and by in large the weather is very stable (if there is instability it would be afternoon thunderstorms) but you can be up and down the thing if you do the red dihedral before that is an issue.
It would be too bad to do it as a 1 day trip after flying that far (but it makes what you have to fly with SO much lighter though) since there is so much to do out there, Outguard Spire,....
Also if you are an endurance junkie you can do Clyde Minaret (east face is about 5.7/5.8 and the direct start is better with a pitch of 5.10a and 5.9). It would involve a 9mile approach (if you start real early like at 2 or 3am, and can drive to the trailhead without having to take the bus otherwise it adds significant distance). The climbing goes pretty fast and the descent is a average by alpine standards. Then you would have the walk out. If you leav by 2 or 3 am and hike and climb at a average pace) you could be back to your car between 9pm and midnight.
(This post was edited by cchas on May 6, 2008, 2:26 PM)
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zealotnoob
May 6, 2008, 2:24 PM
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I followed your game plan all of last year in preparation for a two month trip to Patagonia this past Jan and Feb 
It's going to be quite a while until I have time and resources for another big trip, lending towards my want for short trips.
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altelis
May 6, 2008, 2:31 PM
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i hear you. my opinion is that its not worth the money to keep taking small trips with limited possibility of weather cooperating. make the drive to conway and climb up on washington or something.
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zealotnoob
May 6, 2008, 3:08 PM
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Clyde Minaret sounds interesting. I'm going to look into that. Thanks!
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ddriver
May 15, 2008, 3:20 PM
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cclarke wrote: Re: Hulk I wouldn't do it that way. It's certainly possible but it wouldn't be a lot of fun. Great route but a little acclimatization will make the approach and the climb way more enjoyable.
Agreed. The approach to the Hulk is a bit of a slog for a D.C. weekender and people get benighted on that thing even from an upper bivy. Regarding Clyde Minaret, "Total mileage from trailhead to Cecil Lake is 7.5 miles." The problem to me with most of the Sierra alpine routes, besides the long flight for him, is the permitting requirements and approaches like that.
I've done the Liberty Bell in a 3-day weekend fly-in trip similar to what you're proposing, but its not a gimme prospect given you're flying so far.
Obviously, the Yosemite and Red Rocks suggestions are much more doable but not exactly alpine. You could go up into Toulomne though as others have suggested and climb Dana, Conness, etc. That's a fairly doable scenario but a long flight. I think 3rd Pillar on Dana is reasonably doable but its not a long climb.
Probably the easiest alpine approaches for you would be the lower routes in Rocky Mountain. Acclimatization to elevations at or below 12,000 is significantly easier than 14,000. Fly into Denver and you have a 2-hour drive to Estes, at most. Do lower day routes like Halletts, Spearhead, Meeker, Mt. Alice, etc. Maybe those aren't long enough for you, though, you didn't really define what "long" means to you, nor how hard you want to climb. I've not done this but I've been told that the routes on Pikes Pk are spectacular and, even though high, you can make the approach into something fairly reasonable. Or rather than trash yourself with this trip, just hike out Lumpy Ridge and do a couple routes on Sundance. Its not exactly alpine but at least you can see it from there.
If you can get a decent flight into Jackson you've knocked out most of the Tetons approach. You could do something like the Buckingham on the Middle or one of the easier routes on the Grand fairly quickly. That could make for a nice long day.
The approach into the Elephant's Perch is fairly casual for what you get out of it, excellent climbing. The trick is getting to the trailhead.
I think you really need a direct flight to make this work. That to me means Denver, Vegas or Salt Lake, maybe Albuquerque. From Salt Lake you can do weekend routes in the Tetons without too much trouble, some Winds routes (Haystack or Warbonnet), or you could climb Notch Pk.
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ddriver
May 15, 2008, 3:34 PM
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It just occurred to me, another good option is to fly into Calgary and do the short drive over to Canmore. There are lots of great limestone routes right next to town, and they're just as long if not longer than many of the granite alpine routes in the US that have been discussed. Look into the routes on Rundle, Chinamen's and Yamnuska. Castle Mountain is a good day. There's all variety of great climbing and the scene is really great. Its again not technically alpine, but you can see it. If you insist on alpine its not far away at all, e.g. Mt. Louis, Mt. Temple, etc. You can get on some really long routes there fairly quickly. All in all, I think this may be about your best option. Canmore is a really nice town and the climbing is right there and really good. Even though its limestone it is still primarily trad on the bigger walls.
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cchas
May 15, 2008, 7:47 PM
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ddriver wrote: cclarke wrote: Re: Hulk I wouldn't do it that way. It's certainly possible but it wouldn't be a lot of fun. Great route but a little acclimatization will make the approach and the climb way more enjoyable. Agreed. The approach to the Hulk is a bit of a slog for a D.C. weekender and people get benighted on that thing even from an upper bivy. Regarding Clyde Minaret, "Total mileage from trailhead to Cecil Lake is 7.5 miles." The problem to me with most of the Sierra alpine routes, besides the long flight for him, is the permitting requirements and approaches like that........ .
If you do it as a day trip (ok, think of it as a really long day) permits shouldn't be a problem. The area is a beautiful area and worthwhile spending some time back there but I figure if you are taking climbing gear back there, you might as well do it as a long day
Sure people get benighted on the Hulk but also they get benighted on E Butt of Cathedral (ok, everybody has a different pace that is reasonable for themEven with a moderately late start from the lake I was able to get to camp, break down camp and make it back in time for an awesome dinner in town. Doing it from the car would have made it easier since I wouldn't have had the gear. Only finding the entrance to the canyon is tricky
I figure, explain the logistics accurately, and let the individual decide if its an option for them. For some the long days is a killer, for some its a breeze.
(This post was edited by cchas on May 15, 2008, 7:54 PM)
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dudemanbu
May 16, 2008, 12:52 AM
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Have you done anything at laurel knob?
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zealotnoob
May 16, 2008, 11:53 AM
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Nope, but I am curious about it. Have much experience with the place?
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wyoclimb
May 21, 2008, 11:37 PM
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americas little alps come to mind
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zealotnoob
May 22, 2008, 11:58 AM
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Are you talking about the Tetons?
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ddriver
May 22, 2008, 2:26 PM
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znoob, you never defined what "big" meant to you nor what your climbing level or experience is. That makes it tough to offer advice. Looking at your profile, it looks like your first multi-pitch route was late 2006. If that's the case, I don't think you should be seeking the "biggest" alpine routes out there, particularly something on the Diamond.
Q: Have you ever climbed in the Rockies? If so, what have you done?
If not, why don't you set your sights a little lower than the Diamond and do someting like the Petite, Hallets or Notchtop? With jetlag and a flatlanders acclimatization you'll appreciate the shorter approaches. Those are good learners routes and relatively safe, though lightning can be a concern.
Aren't america's little alps the Walowas?
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hacksaw
May 22, 2008, 3:58 PM
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I have heard that folks have done the Ham and Eggs Couloir on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska, in a weekend.
Appairently, folks drive up to Talkeetna on Friday afternoon, fly into the Ruth and land below the couloir on the Root Canal Gl., climb the route on Saturday and fly out on Sunday. Obviously, you need prefect conditions and weather......
(This post was edited by hacksaw on May 22, 2008, 4:00 PM)
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zealotnoob
May 22, 2008, 6:08 PM
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From above: In reply to: Well, I'm definately not in the 35 pitch category and my alpine resume is short. -The Diagonal III 5.8 on Wallface in the Dacks -The North Ridge III 5.6 on Mt Conness -The Monzino Route V 5.10 650m on Torre Norte in Paine, Chile -Taller del Sol V 5.10+ 600m on Torre Norte in Paine, Chile -Bulgarian Route 6a 450m on Aguja de la S in El Chalten, Argentina The longer the better, up to 5.10.
My first multi-pitch route was in 2006, two months after I started climbing. I cut my teeth on bigger stuff in Patagonia (http://www.rockclimbing.com/...20patagonia;#1839420) this past Jan-Feb (see above), which left me itching for more.
I agree that the Diamond isn't sounding like a feasible weekend trip. But man, does it look sweet.
Thanks for the help, btw.
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wyoclimb
May 22, 2008, 11:16 PM
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oh yeay Jump off plane right there in the park hitch to lupine meadows solo up to 13'776 back drinking beer in 24 hrs. maybe
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