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RockerPaully
May 7, 2008, 4:34 PM
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anybody know what the name of this route is: it's the farthest right bolted line on the face of Queen that Nuclear Energy is on. It would be the first route you'd come upon as you drop down below the huge chockstone to get into that part of Queen. It's a bolted face that's very slightly overhanging, is just edges, and starts beside a small tree. I've been told it's an 11b but that's all I've heard.
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atpeaceinbozeman
May 8, 2008, 7:15 PM
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It's known as The Lorax (.10+)
Put up 2 winters ago by Hutchinson, Travis Williams, Pat Kingsbury and myself...
you get on it?
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RockerPaully
May 8, 2008, 7:19 PM
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ya, I led it a few times this year, it's a pretty fun route. Sweet, now I have a little closure :)
you wouldn't happen to know who put up or what the names and ratings of 3 routes at Gillette Edge that aren't in the Guide? They are the 2 bolted lines left and right of a prominent crack on the west face of the north spire. One felt like a 5.11a on the bottom then gets really easy at the top, with some big, flakey hands.
The 3rd route is left of Flemish Flair, its 4 bolts and goes up on thin edges and slopers. It shares chains with Flemish Flair, too.
(This post was edited by RockerPaully on May 8, 2008, 7:24 PM)
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atpeaceinbozeman
May 8, 2008, 7:21 PM
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Right on, we thought it would be a decent addition...kind of a warm up for that wall...
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atpeaceinbozeman
May 13, 2008, 9:42 PM
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Missed your edit...
The bolt line left of Flemish flair was put up a year or so ago...Can't remember who bolted it...but when we showed up they had yet to get the redpoint and handed it over to us, Hutchinson got the FFA. If I remember correctly...seems 11ish, can't remember what Hutch called it...You out there Mojede???
Not sure about the other two bolt lines...can't really picture where you are describing...around the corner(west) from gentleman's club?
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RockerPaully
May 13, 2008, 10:45 PM
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the line left of flemish flair was in the 5.11 territory, but I couldn't pull move to get above the last bolt. It got pretty blank, you had to do some harder friction with a crystal to pinch if I remember right.
The other 2 lines are in the gap between the upper face and the lower face. I wish I had the guide right now, but they are the only bolted lines on the face above and behind Flemish Flair. The first one is about 10ft to the right of a 5.8 crack on the west face that is in the guide (it's pictured in the guide in a shot that looks south at the cracks on the north end of the edge if I remember right), the 5.8 and this route share a set of chains. The other route puts you on the very top of the north Gillette Edge. It starts about 4ft to the right of a left leaning dihedral crack. To get to these routes you have to walk north, almost to the end of Gillette Edge and then walk up and back south into the gap between the Edges.
I'll add some photos of these routes to the Gillette Edge page.
(This post was edited by RockerPaully on May 13, 2008, 10:54 PM)
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mojede
May 14, 2008, 1:58 PM
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RockerP, Wayne H. (powerandrubber) and John G. from Bozeman equipped the line left of "Flemish Flair". The name is "Whistle or Lose It"--named for the last crux move off that "nipple" crystal. A lot of frictiion faith with the right hand pressing/pushing off that crystal is what it takes. Somewhere in the 11b/c range, I reckon.
edit: Whistling to stay calm and in control doesn't hurt, either. Hehe.
(This post was edited by mojede on May 14, 2008, 2:03 PM)
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atpeaceinbozeman
May 14, 2008, 2:56 PM
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OK, I know the two you are talking about. The first had a strange slabby move down low then patina plates up high that felt rather fragile...
I didn't climb the other one..
Don't really know much else...not sure who bolted those two...maybe Wayne, or Kurt K. perhaps? What do you know about those Mojede?
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mojede
May 14, 2008, 3:15 PM
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I just looked in the guide and saw what RockerP was talking about--unfortunately, I am at a loss. I doubt that it was Kurt, and I know it wasn't me, so who else has keys to a drill around here. I'm guessing Wayne, maybe he will check in here.
Powerandrubber ?
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RockerPaully
May 14, 2008, 5:01 PM
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I should have whistled! I took a couple of falls on that move and said screw it, and finished on Flemish Flair. I'll go back and redeem myself next fall or maybe Memorial Day weekend when I'm back in Butte.
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