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truth_stillfree
May 10, 2008, 10:32 PM
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I am a climbing guide and travel around with the weather to work and climb. I went back to the "real world" for the last three years and have decided it is over rated and just not for me. I am a free spirit as I am sure a lot of you are as well.
Question is: What are the best places for crack climbing in the US?
If you know of any in South and Central America as well that would be awesome. I think I am going to go there for the winter this year.
If you a lot of info feel free to email me at sdawdy@gmail.com
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petsfed
May 10, 2008, 11:06 PM
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Indian Creek, Vedauwoo, Paradise Forks, South Platte, Yosemite, Lumpy Ridge, Index, Devils Tower, Joshua Tree, City of Rocks, the entire Moab area.
Those are the ones that come to mind right off hand.
I'm sure there's more that I'm missing.
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kmc
May 11, 2008, 1:28 AM
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You may get a better response if you post in the Trad Climbing area. There arent too many bolted cracks, and most sport climbers dont favor crack and crack technique.
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socalbolter
May 11, 2008, 1:55 AM
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petsfed has the beginnings of a good list, but The Needles in California need to be on that list too.
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angry
May 11, 2008, 1:59 AM
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The bigger question is
"What kind of guide needs suggestions on where to climb cracks?"
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anykineclimb
May 11, 2008, 2:02 AM
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angry wrote: The bigger question is "What kind of guide needs suggestions on where to climb cracks?"
Glad I'm not the only one that picked up on that!
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truth_stillfree
May 11, 2008, 2:21 AM
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I haven't traveled out west very much. I spend a lot of time at the New, the Red, Horse pins 40 and Little rock city. I have never met a climber that was such an ass either until you came along. So we both surprised each other.
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angry
May 11, 2008, 2:33 AM
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You wrote
truth_stillfree wrote: I am a climbing guide and travel around with the weather to work and climb. I went back to the "real world" for the last three years and have decided it is over rated and just not for me. I am a free spirit as I am sure a lot of you are as well. Question is: What are the best places for crack climbing in the US? If you know of any in South and Central America as well that would be awesome. I think I am going to go there for the winter this year. If you a lot of info feel free to email me at sdawdy@gmail.com
It's hard to miss dude, if you are a guide, you already know this.
Had you written the exact same thing
truth_stillfree should have written wrote: I just quit my 9 to 5 and want to travel around with the weather to work and climb. I went back to the "real world" for the last three years and have decided it is over rated and just not for me. I am a free spirit as I am sure a lot of you are as well. Question is: What are the best places for crack climbing in the US? If you know of any in South and Central America as well that would be awesome. I think I am going to go there for the winter this year. If you a lot of info feel free to email me at sdawdy@gmail.com
I could have given you some great suggestions.
It's very subtle but implying both that you are a professional and have no knowledge really is a red flag. Double posting the exact same thing in two forums is another.
Just be glad the troops are probably out climbing this weekend or you'd get even worse than me.
Welcome to RC.com!!!
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angry
May 11, 2008, 3:26 AM
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climbingtrash wrote: angry wrote: Just be glad the troops are probably out climbing this weekend or you'd get even worse than me. Why in the Hell aren't you out climbing this weekend Angry?!? The weathers been perfect. I'd give you some suggestions truth_stillfree but I'm too tired from crack climbing today. 
Why the fuck would I go climbing on the weekend when I've got 5 perfectly good days during the week to climb?
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MikeSaint
May 11, 2008, 3:29 AM
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truth_stillfree wrote: I am a climbing guide and travel around with the weather to work and climb. I went back to the "real world" for the last three years and have decided it is over rated and just not for me. I am a free spirit as I am sure a lot of you are as well. Question is: What are the best places for crack climbing in the US? If you know of any in South and Central America as well that would be awesome. I think I am going to go there for the winter this year. If you a lot of info feel free to email me at sdawdy@gmail.com
You're inquiring about cracks that are bolted? I can tell you that North Carolina will be at the bottom of your lists.
Do you guide with an established organization or just on your own?
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chossmonkey
May 11, 2008, 8:07 PM
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climbingtrash wrote: angry wrote: Why the fuck would I go climbing on the weekend when I've got 5 perfectly good days during the week to climb? Good question! Answer...anyone...anyone? 
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angry
May 11, 2008, 10:34 PM
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chossmonkey wrote: climbingtrash wrote: angry wrote: Why the fuck would I go climbing on the weekend when I've got 5 perfectly good days during the week to climb? Good question! Answer...anyone...anyone? Because he wants to climb one hard crack everyday for a year?
I clipped bolts today. I feel so metro now. I'm going to shave my balls.
12c? Holy shit sport ratings are fluffy!!!
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devkrev
May 12, 2008, 12:43 AM
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angry wrote: chossmonkey wrote: climbingtrash wrote: angry wrote: Why the fuck would I go climbing on the weekend when I've got 5 perfectly good days during the week to climb? Good question! Answer...anyone...anyone? Because he wants to climb one hard crack everyday for a year? I clipped bolts today. I feel so metro now. I'm going to shave my balls. 12c? Holy shit sport ratings are fluffy!!!
YAY, TEEBALL!!
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quiteatingmysteak
May 12, 2008, 1:53 AM
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truth_stillfree wrote: I haven't traveled out west very much. I spend a lot of time at the New, the Red, Horse pins 40 and Little rock city. I have never met a climber that was such an ass either until you came along. So we both surprised each other.
So guiding is a 9-5? You sir, are full of shit.
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curt
May 12, 2008, 4:31 AM
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truth_stillfree wrote: I haven't traveled out west very much. I spend a lot of time at the New, the Red, Horse pins 40 and Little rock city. I have never met a climber that was such an ass either until you came along. So we both surprised each other.
Horse pins, eh?
Curt
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stamplis
May 12, 2008, 5:13 AM
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One often overlooked destination is the best in the Northwest - Smith Rock's Lower Gorge. Killer basalt with more routes than Paradise Forks. The route database on this website doesn't do this location justice!
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truth_stillfree
May 15, 2008, 3:18 AM
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You haven't heard of one of them and you're giving me shit?! They have the Triple Crown bouldering competition at Little Rock. You all sound like children. I asked a simple question and you act like your panties are in a twist. Grow up. Here are some links for you dumbass.
New river gorge:http://www.nps.gov/neri/planyourvisit/climbing.htm
Red river gorge: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/
Horse Pens 40: http://www.climbing.com/community/events/sloperfest08/
Little rock city:
http://www.triplecrownbouldering.org/lrc.htm
http://www.active.com/page/Event_Details.htm?event_id=1560859&assetId=eed245cf-0d43-433c-8ece-4f7905b023c2
(This post was edited by truth_stillfree on May 15, 2008, 3:20 AM)
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petsfed
May 15, 2008, 5:46 AM
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2 things:
1) First response, douche bag. Nobody wants to pile on to what's already been said.
2) You really opened yourself up to a lot of derision. Seriously, what kind of climbing guide doesn't already know this shit? Have you been guiding climbers exclusively in some kind of vacuum wherein you never deal with other climbers? Never read any of the climbing rags? Never heard stories around a campfire about this way rad trad climbing destination? Never seen photos of spectacular splitters and thought to look at the caption below them? It strains the limits of credulity, so if it makes perfect sense that you've never heard about good crack climbing destinations, it makes perfect sense that anykineclimb has not heard of the places you've climbed at (none of which are known for their crack climbing).
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el_layclimber
May 15, 2008, 5:59 AM
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climbingtrash wrote: angry wrote: Why the fuck would I go climbing on the weekend when I've got 5 perfectly good days during the week to climb? Good question! Answer...anyone...anyone?
Well, I have decided that 'B: because I am gainfully employed and I work Monday to Friday,' is not the correct answer. That pretty much leaves 'D: Trick question, I am a dirtbag, and the only reason I know whether it's the weekend or not is that I have more belay bitches for two days.'
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climbingtrash
May 15, 2008, 12:46 PM
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truth_stillfree wrote: You haven't heard of one of them and you're giving me shit?! They have the Triple Crown bouldering competition at Little Rock. You all sound like children. I asked a simple question and you act like your panties are in a twist. Grow up. Here are some links for you dumbass. New river gorge:http://www.nps.gov/neri/planyourvisit/climbing.htm Red river gorge: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/ Horse Pens 40: http://www.climbing.com/community/events/sloperfest08/ Little rock city: http://www.triplecrownbouldering.org/lrc.htm http://www.active.com/page/Event_Details.htm?event_id=1560859&assetId=eed245cf-0d43-433c-8ece-4f7905b023c2
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climbingtrash
May 15, 2008, 12:53 PM
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el_layclimber wrote: climbingtrash wrote: angry wrote: Why the fuck would I go climbing on the weekend when I've got 5 perfectly good days during the week to climb? Good question! Answer...anyone...anyone? Well, I have decided that 'B: because I am gainfully employed and I work Monday to Friday,' is not the correct answer. That pretty much leaves 'D: Trick question, I am a dirtbag, and the only reason I know whether it's the weekend or not is that I have more belay bitches for two days.'
I'm pretty sure that angry's question was a rhetorical one...he's kinda like Jesus. (answers a question with a question)
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