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jakedatc
Jun 4, 2008, 3:34 AM
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cool.. i can do all the moves.. it's a matter of linking those moves after the deadpoint/dyno it's aggravating to fall.. sit there for 30 seconds and be able to do it
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bdbc
Jun 4, 2008, 3:39 AM
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yeah i know the feelng. hopefully i'll be fit enough to pull it out. i really want to get to work on Wiamea though, it would be sweet to get that route. i think i can get it in a couple hours of work. We'll have to see who's going where when i get up there =) its gonna be a memorable weekend for sure!
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jakedatc
Jun 4, 2008, 4:03 AM
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waimea should be a cake walk if you can pull on Things. Jug jug jug jug rest crimp crimp rest crimp crimp clip anchors :) you got 2 weeks to do some crimp endurance. find a crimpy 5.9 or something at the gym and do laps on it. or a crimpy traverse with a jug in the middle.. get used to being pumped out.. then getting a shake and then holding more crimps. All the way .11a is like 3 extra hard moves
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bdbc
Jun 4, 2008, 4:09 AM
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hehe, i'm not worried about pulling, i'm more worried about the sequence of it all  i'm not very strong when i get into the low .11s but i think i would try and go all the way on it. i can crimp on some pretty small stuff, but not too sure for how long. its mostly the endurance of it. i can boulder pretty well (thats why i can pull on Things) but we'll have to see!
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epoch
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Jun 4, 2008, 11:09 AM
Post #180 of 507
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Having never been to Rumney nor able to score a guidebook (go figure - still waiting for the new one - ward) I will be going at it anew.
I will be bringing a somewhat new climber with me and am hoping to get her on her first outdoor lead. In effect, I will be looking at climbs between the 5.5 - 5.11+ (maybe more for a project) range. It's been a while since I have been exclusively sport climbing, and having never been to Rumney I don't know how the grades feel.
What would be nice is to partner up with another couple that is in a similar situation. I enjoy climbing with my GF, but I feel bad making her a belay slave on something she can't climb.
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jammer
Jun 4, 2008, 12:34 PM
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The second post of this thread I have created a mini guide book to climbs under 11. Sorry supermen/women, nothing over 11. Jake has informed me that the list is not complete. Left out some old ones and all the ones that are new, so the adventure still awaits.
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jammer
Jun 4, 2008, 12:40 PM
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aaronflacke wrote: Jammer If someone can recommend a good kind of cheap-ish climbing shoes I will get those.
aaronflacke wrote: I have a 34/35 waist. Do you need that to know what kind of harness thanks Aaron
Yup, got an extra one for you to use. So the harness is set. Think about the shoes.
Alan
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aaronflacke
Jun 4, 2008, 12:57 PM
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Jammer (and everyone else)
must I have rock climbing shoes? I will not be grappling my way up the rock on this excursion, as we have amply covered.
thoughts?
A
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cracklover
Jun 4, 2008, 1:06 PM
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aaronflacke wrote: Jammer (and everyone else) must I have rock climbing shoes?
Nope. Bring a comfy pair of hiking boots or sneakers. Oh, has anyone volunteered a set of aiders and jumars? If not, I can provide them.
Only harness I have in Aaron's size is an old-style webbing only job. Not so good for sitting in for long amounts of time, taking pics. Anyone else have a better one?
GO
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cracklover
Jun 4, 2008, 1:15 PM
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Hey Jake - I'd be willing to give Things As They Are Now a burn. Here's what's on my project list - any of these appeal?
1 - The Vaporizer (Orange Crush)
2 - The Crusher (Orange Crush)
3 - Orangahang (Orange Crush)
4 - Tropicana P2 (Orange Crush) - not a project, but just never done it before and want to.
5 - Technosurfing (Waimea)
6 - Luau (Waimea)
7 - Retrospace (New Wave)
8 - Stone Temple Pilot (Prudential)
9 - Pulse (Kennel)
I'm happy to work Things if you'll get on at least one of these with me.
GO
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bdbc
Jun 4, 2008, 1:26 PM
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cracklover wrote: Nope. Bring a comfy pair of hiking boots or sneakers. Oh, has anyone volunteered a set of aiders and jumars? If not, I can provide them. Only harness I have in Aaron's size is an old-style webbing only job. Not so good for sitting in for long amounts of time, taking pics. Anyone else have a better one? GO
i've got a harness that he could use, its a new Black Diamond Momentum (i think) and if that dosent fit, i can wear that, and he can use my petzl. i also have an aider and jumar, should you need like 12 jumars  the more the merrrier!
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jammer
Jun 4, 2008, 8:27 PM
Post #187 of 507
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aaronflacke wrote: Jammer (and everyone else) must I have rock climbing shoes? I will not be grappling my way up the rock on this excursion, as we have amply covered. thoughts? A
Yes, a set comfortable shoes would work. I was suggesting climbing shoes for their sticky rummer, but you're not climbing, so you may as well be as comfortable as you can.
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GeneralBenson
Jun 4, 2008, 9:31 PM
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epoch wrote: I will be bringing a somewhat new climber with me and am hoping to get her on her first outdoor lead. In effect, I will be looking at climbs between the 5.5 - 5.11+ (maybe more for a project) range. It's been a while since I have been exclusively sport climbing, and having never been to Rumney I don't know how the grades feel.
Epoch, I'd be glad to team up with you guys. I'm not part of a couple. WEll, I am, but the other half lives in Boulder. But anyways, I'm on the injured list, which knocks me down to the 5.5-5.8 range, with maybe a few .9/.10 if I'm feeling not hurt. Anyways, That's a good range for me to be chillin in with your friend, and thanks to my fingers, I've gotten quite use to frequent belaying.
Also, who's doing what for Tard Farday? I might also be there as early as thursday, anyone interested?
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jakedatc
Jun 4, 2008, 10:29 PM
Post #189 of 507
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cracklover wrote: Hey Jake - I'd be willing to give Things As They Are Now a burn. Here's what's on my project list - any of these appeal? 1 - The Vaporizer (Orange Crush) 2 - The Crusher (Orange Crush) 3 - Orangahang (Orange Crush) 4 - Tropicana P2 (Orange Crush) - not a project, but just never done it before and want to. 5 - Technosurfing (Waimea) 6 - Luau (Waimea) 7 - Retrospace (New Wave) 8 - Stone Temple Pilot (Prudential) 9 - Pulse (Kennel) I'm happy to work Things if you'll get on at least one of these with me. GO
Gabe i'd be down for about any of those. I think i'm more suited for the overhanging stuff at OC than the techy right side
my new Clinic schedule is M-Thurs 10hr days. oy however i have F-Sun off and this coming week i have M-wed off if anyone is free and if rumney opens back up i'd be happy to go up
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epoch
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Jun 5, 2008, 2:52 PM
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pharmboy wrote: GeneralBenson wrote: Also, who's doing what for Tard Farday? I might also be there as early as thursday, anyone interested? Looks like I might be losing my partner for Tard-day. I'm up for an adventure and have a devious little plot lined up for an unsuspecting partner. If you or anyone else are interested in the gory details let me know. ***PS, this is made to sound much bigger than it really is as I'm actually a mediocre climber (unlike Mr. Lover) however I can drink beer with the best of 'em.
I think notch may be looking for a partner.
Depending on scheduling, as previously stated, I may or may not be in for Tard Farday. If I can make it I'll gladly offer up for a third on Whitney Gillman.
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charley
Jun 5, 2008, 3:05 PM
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Generalbenson, if you need someone to climb with, I am coming with two friends and you can join us. 5.5- 5.8 is ok except that two of us will do the .2 and the .4 also. I was sick most of the last time I was there so am looking forward to the .5 - .8's.
I'm looking forward to seeing all of you that I have met and meeting more. I guess I'll call that number and let them know three of us will be coming up from pittsburgh area. Only about two weeks. We are staying mon and tuesday too. We will be driving up on fri. Planning on whitehorse on tuesday. Getting antsy. cya
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GeneralBenson
Jun 5, 2008, 3:57 PM
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Who else is planning on doing the WGR? Jammer, you wanna get on it? Or something on whitehorse. Some slab would be righteous.
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troutboy
Jun 5, 2008, 4:19 PM
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Well I need to officially bow out of the festivities due to the jury duty fiasco.
The good news is, I still have a job to do in Manchester, so I'll be up there soon and looking for some partners for Rumney later this summer.
Sorry I'll miss y'all and have fun.
Tim
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pharmboy
Jun 5, 2008, 4:44 PM
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epoch wrote: I think notch may be looking for a partner. Depending on scheduling, as previously stated, I may or may not be in for Tard Farday. If I can make it I'll gladly offer up for a third on Whitney Gillman.
I talked to Matt a couple weeks ago and should hopefully hear from him soon as to his plans for Friday. I'm up for WGR or Moby, or really anything for that matter. However this is what I kind of had in mind (sorry for stealing the link from elsewheres): http://www.neclimbs.com/forum.php **Weird, the link doesn't seem to work right. It's in the new rock route threads, re: "Lost in the Sun" in Crawford Notch.
Have you been up there yet and if so how is the climbing. Looked like a great spot to hit on Tard-day
(This post was edited by pharmboy on Jun 5, 2008, 4:48 PM)
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jammer
Jun 5, 2008, 7:41 PM
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I'm going to try to make the tard Friday. I'll be the only one in the office, so it is sketchy. I'll try to twist the bosses arm ... she may be nice and allow me to take the day off. Unfortunately, homelessness doesn't take a day off.
GETTING CLOSE!
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c4c
Jun 6, 2008, 6:36 PM
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pharmboy wrote: epoch wrote: I think notch may be looking for a partner. Depending on scheduling, as previously stated, I may or may not be in for Tard Farday. If I can make it I'll gladly offer up for a third on Whitney Gillman. I talked to Matt a couple weeks ago and should hopefully hear from him soon as to his plans for Friday. I'm up for WGR or Moby, or really anything for that matter. However this is what I kind of had in mind (sorry for stealing the link from elsewheres): http://www.neclimbs.com/forum.php **Weird, the link doesn't seem to work right. It's in the new rock route threads, re: "Lost in the Sun" in Crawford Notch. Have you been up there yet and if so how is the climbing. Looked like a great spot to hit on Tard-day
I would be up for that on friday Rich.
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pharmboy
Jun 6, 2008, 7:32 PM
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c4c wrote: pharmboy wrote: epoch wrote: I think notch may be looking for a partner. Depending on scheduling, as previously stated, I may or may not be in for Tard Farday. If I can make it I'll gladly offer up for a third on Whitney Gillman. I talked to Matt a couple weeks ago and should hopefully hear from him soon as to his plans for Friday. I'm up for WGR or Moby, or really anything for that matter. However this is what I kind of had in mind (sorry for stealing the link from elsewheres): http://www.neclimbs.com/forum.php **Weird, the link doesn't seem to work right. It's in the new rock route threads, re: "Lost in the Sun" in Crawford Notch. Have you been up there yet and if so how is the climbing. Looked like a great spot to hit on Tard-day I would be up for that on friday Rich.
Great Todd! It sounds like a bit of an adventure with the possibility of bear encounters, it'll be good to have someone with me that runs slower than I do!
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c4c
Jun 6, 2008, 8:39 PM
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pharmboy wrote: c4c wrote: pharmboy wrote: epoch wrote: I think notch may be looking for a partner. Depending on scheduling, as previously stated, I may or may not be in for Tard Farday. If I can make it I'll gladly offer up for a third on Whitney Gillman. I talked to Matt a couple weeks ago and should hopefully hear from him soon as to his plans for Friday. I'm up for WGR or Moby, or really anything for that matter. However this is what I kind of had in mind (sorry for stealing the link from elsewheres): http://www.neclimbs.com/forum.php **Weird, the link doesn't seem to work right. It's in the new rock route threads, re: "Lost in the Sun" in Crawford Notch. Have you been up there yet and if so how is the climbing. Looked like a great spot to hit on Tard-day I would be up for that on friday Rich. Great Todd! It sounds like a bit of an adventure with the possibility of bear encounters, it'll be good to have someone with me that runs slower than I do!
I think you might be surprised how fast I can run when chased. Besides I'm tripping Alan if we see a bear. Are you sure that it isn't a possibility of beer encounters instead?
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GeneralBenson
Jun 6, 2008, 9:04 PM
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c4c wrote: pharmboy wrote: c4c wrote: pharmboy wrote: epoch wrote: I think notch may be looking for a partner. Depending on scheduling, as previously stated, I may or may not be in for Tard Farday. If I can make it I'll gladly offer up for a third on Whitney Gillman. I talked to Matt a couple weeks ago and should hopefully hear from him soon as to his plans for Friday. I'm up for WGR or Moby, or really anything for that matter. However this is what I kind of had in mind (sorry for stealing the link from elsewheres): http://www.neclimbs.com/forum.php **Weird, the link doesn't seem to work right. It's in the new rock route threads, re: "Lost in the Sun" in Crawford Notch. Have you been up there yet and if so how is the climbing. Looked like a great spot to hit on Tard-day I would be up for that on friday Rich. Great Todd! It sounds like a bit of an adventure with the possibility of bear encounters, it'll be good to have someone with me that runs slower than I do! I think you might be surprised how fast I can run when chased. Besides I'm tripping Alan if we see a bear. Are you sure that it isn't a possibility of beer encounters instead?
That sounds like an awesome route! Count me in. Sounds like the perfect virgin excursion for my new double ropes. It will be funny going from there, with 3-5 bolts for every 150' pitch; to Rumney with 8-10 bolts for every 50' pitch. I'm starting to get psyched.
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