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ndevertoclimb
Jun 6, 2008, 12:33 AM
Post #1 of 4
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Registered: Oct 28, 2004
Posts: 22
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I am thinking about doing some trad climbing. Ive been sport climbing for 6 years and never done any trad. There are some cool crack climbs at Horseshoe Canyon ranch here in Arkansas and the cracks not all that wide more like fingers and hands. I wandered what cams would be best to buy so I get several that night work into the same size crack up the route a ways. Do you buy several of the same size? Or is it best to ask someone who climbs a particular route and see what they use?? Thanks.
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jammer
Jun 6, 2008, 12:59 AM
Post #2 of 4
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
Posts: 3472
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Guess it all depends on how much cash you have to spend. If you have the money to buy extra gear for later, and a couple of doubles of the most common size, then do it before the price rises. If all you want to do is stick to your area, then, by all means, ask those who climb in the area what the standard rack is.
Remember, once you get hooked on trad ... you'll find yourself on road trips to other areas, like North Carolina ...
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jmeizis
Jun 6, 2008, 1:22 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
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You don't need cams to climb the cracks at HCR or Sam's for that matter. Since most of the cracks vary a lot in size you can get by with nuts and tri-cams. If you feel the need to get into wide-land get some of the bigger cams. If you really feel it necessary to get cams and you're looking at the finger to hand size get one of the .5, 1, and 2, maybe the .75. If you've got the money double up. If you can't make it up routes with that and a mix of passive pro then you need to work on your skills.
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evanwish
Jun 6, 2008, 4:34 AM
Post #4 of 4
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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where i learned how to trad climb (Cosumnes River) the climbs are REALLY short so you don't need much gear for each climb, but the sizes of cracks go from finger cracks to offwidths/chimneys
so when i started getting gear, i got one of every size so i could practice leading all the sizes of cracks without putting much of an investment into each size (lets say i didn't like fist climbs..)
now that i climb longer routes i have doubles in all the sizes of cams and loads of pasive gear...
in conclusion it truely does depend on where you are climbing, and if you want to stick to finger/hand/fist climbs or do long routes with them all...
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