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karenstokes
Jun 26, 2008, 3:03 PM
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I saw that Hans Florine is making a new speed attempt on the Nose today. Does anyone know how it's going?
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 26, 2008, 3:04 PM
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Why did he pick the nose?
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sungam
Jun 26, 2008, 3:14 PM
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Because he was hungy!
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naitch
Jun 26, 2008, 3:19 PM
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WVUCLMBR wrote: Why did he pick the nose?
Because there's an uber-Huber booger in it...
(This post was edited by naitch on Jun 26, 2008, 3:28 PM)
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getout87
Jun 26, 2008, 3:20 PM
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naitch wrote: karenstokes wrote: I saw that Hans Florine is making a new speed attempt on the Nose today. Does anyone know how it's going? Because there's an uber-Huber booger in it...
Bravo.
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karenstokes
Jun 26, 2008, 3:30 PM
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Based on the preponderance of booger jokes, I guess there's no news yet! Here's a great pic from yesterday of the team at the Great Roof.
http://www.speedclimb.com/H_Y_GR.jpg
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WVUCLMBR
Jun 26, 2008, 3:54 PM
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No need to be so snotty.
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matttt
Jun 27, 2008, 12:30 AM
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if anybody is interested check out supertopo...news will be there.
matt.
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climb_eng
Jun 27, 2008, 8:09 AM
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notapplicable wrote: epoch wrote: [image]http://www.speedclimb.com/H_Y_GR.jpg[/image] Looks doable. Whats that go at 5.11b/c?
Dude, that thing looks splitter.
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notapplicable
Jun 27, 2008, 12:54 PM
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climb_eng wrote: notapplicable wrote: epoch wrote: [image]http://www.speedclimb.com/H_Y_GR.jpg[/image] Looks doable. Whats that go at 5.11b/c? Dude, that thing looks splitter.
Thats what I'm talkin about.
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tisar
Jul 3, 2008, 11:41 AM
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IT'S A RECORD!!! 2:43:33
http://www.speedclimb.com/
Nice job!
I wonder if the Hubers will try to fight back...
- Daniel
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bigfatrock
Jul 3, 2008, 12:42 PM
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That is insane that some people do this in mere hours when the average Joe spends days.
Did the team swap leads, or was their one leader and the belayer jugs up sections?
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tisar
Jul 3, 2008, 12:55 PM
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As far as I know from the Huber attempt it's one leader and one jugging for most of the time.
Goes something like that:
- Leader leads half a rope length and fixes the rope.
- Second starts jugging while leader climbs the second half of the rope.
- second climbs up and frees rope while first one finishes the half ropelength
- first gets up half the rope, fixes it and so on.
Basically it's close to simulclimbing, but with a knot in the middle. Leader falls thus will eat up half the rope and are 'caught' by the last ancor, which makes it f...ing dangerous.
- Daniel
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bigfatrock
Jul 3, 2008, 12:58 PM
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tisar wrote: As far as I know from the Huber attempt it's one leader and one jugging for most of the time. Goes something like that: - Leader leads half a rope length and fixes the rope. - Second starts jugging while leader climbs the second half of the rope. - second climbs up and frees rope while first one finishes the half ropelength - first gets up half the rope, fixes it and so on. Basically it's close to simulclimbing, but with a knot in the middle. Leader falls thus will eat up half the rope and are 'caught' by the last ancor, which makes it f...ing dangerous. - Daniel
That would be one helluva fall to for the leader if the fell to early. Could even fall on the second. I can see how that would be really dangerous. Wow!!
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nthusiastj
Jul 3, 2008, 1:02 PM
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There was actually a story on them breaking the record on NPR this morning. It was pretty good.
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tisar
Jul 4, 2008, 7:58 AM
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Okay, seems the Huber's will not make an attempt to break the record again. In an interview they gave to the Austrian alpine magazin Bergsteigen Alex said:
Alex Huber wrote: „Wir wurden von vielen Seiten sofort über den neuen Rekord informiert. Zuerst möchten wir Yuji und Hans gratulieren! Ich wusste, dass sie sobald wie möglich versuchen würden, den Rekord wieder zurückzugewinnen. Für Thomas und mich war es großartig, den Rekord an der Nose aufgestellt zu haben, insbesondere weil es für uns durch zwei Unfälle, bei denen wir uns verletzt hatten, ein wirklich schwieriges Unternehmen war. Es liegt in der Natur eines jeden Rekords, dass er früher oder später gebrochen wird. Egal, ob man einen Rekord für einen Tag, einen Monat oder ein Jahr hält, es ist wird immer eine relativ kurze Zeit sein, die ein Rekord von jemanden gehalten werden kann. Thomas und ich waren einmal die schnellsten an der Nose und wir sind darüber sehr glücklich. Dieses Kapitel ist aber für uns abgeschlossen.“ Roughly translated: “We got informed of the new record immediately. First of all we want to congratulate to Yuji and Hans! I knew they would try to win back the record as soon as possible. It was awesome for Thomas and me to set the record on the nose. Even more since it was a real struggle due to the two accidents during which we got injured. It’s part of the nature of records to be broken sooner or later. No matter if you hold the record for a day, a month or a yeart – it will always be a short time the record can be held by someone. Thomas and I for once were the fastest on the nose and we’re very happy about it. But now this is a closed chapter for us.”
Already before this statement there was a sentence on their homepage which pretty clearly stated that they would abstain from speed climbing because of the risk.
- Daniel
(This post was edited by tisar on Jul 7, 2008, 2:50 PM)
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