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NiNe
Jul 17, 2008, 12:25 AM
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So Ive been absolutely craving to get outdoors and do some climbing on real rock instead of climbing plastic indoors. Im pretty new to rock climbing also so I thought Id ask the rest of you guys about Squamish. First off what level of climbing should you be at for Squamish? Im really wanting to go there but if its really advanced I might want to climb some other areas first, or should I just go and see how it goes? Also at Squamish can you rent certain gear that you dont have? And are there certain rules for climbing? (ie do you need a helmet?). Lastly can you get quick run through from people about how to do a certain type of climbing? Like Ive only done top roping and I really need and want to learn to trad climb. Any help or advice is much appreciated. Thanks.
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kriso9tails
Jul 17, 2008, 3:25 AM
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NiNe wrote: So Ive been absolutely craving to get outdoors and do some climbing on real rock instead of climbing plastic indoors. Im pretty new to rock climbing also so I thought Id ask the rest of you guys about Squamish. First off what level of climbing should you be at for Squamish? Grade wise? Almost any level. The harder you climb, the more options you have.
In reply to: Im really wanting to go there but if its really advanced I might want to climb some other areas first, or should I just go and see how it goes? Well, you could boulder and there's some stuff you could TR
In reply to: Also at Squamish can you rent certain gear that you dont have? Ummmm.... what kind of gear? There are certain things you can rent at Climb On up in Squamish, or at MEC in Vancouver. What you can rent is pretty limited though, which is to be expected. Personally, I wouldn't take on the liability of renting most climbing gear for unsupervised use. Generally, it's better to borrow gear from someone you trust or to just make the investment and buy.
In reply to: And are there certain rules for climbing? (ie do you need a helmet?). There's no mandate to wear a helmet. As for whether you need it or not, it depends on you and on what you're doing. Whenever you hit a new area, always check access. Usually you can type in the crag/ area name + access and get a hit. There's just no bloody reason not to in this day in age. http://www.squamishaccess.ca/
In reply to: Lastly can you get quick run through from people about how to do a certain type of climbing? Like Ive only done top roping and I really need and want to learn to trad climb. Can you? Yes. Should you? No way in hell.
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NiNe
Jul 17, 2008, 4:13 AM
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Hey Thanks kriso9talls, I appreciate the info. Ya I guess I should definitely just invest in the gear if Im planning on heading out there frequently. In terms of gear what should you have in your pack to climb for a day? Or what do you need for Squamish? Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure I have what I need and am prepared the best I can be. Thats for the tip about checking access, I will make sure I do that. Lastly why shouldnt you ask someone to show you the ropes? Generally I it seems like most climbers are really open to helping beginners and are really friendly, is it just cause they are there to climb and dont want to be teaching any noobs? Thanks again.
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usacpnw
Jul 17, 2008, 4:16 AM
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Shoes Chalk Bag Crash Pad Water
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NiNe
Jul 17, 2008, 4:18 AM
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Okay what gear if Im planning on doing more than bouldering? lol
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kriso9tails
Jul 17, 2008, 5:01 AM
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NiNe wrote: Lastly why shouldnt you ask someone to show you the ropes? Generally I it seems like most climbers are really open to helping beginners and are really friendly, is it just cause they are there to climb and dont want to be teaching any noobs? Thanks again. No, it was the words, "quick run through'. If you can get someone to mentor you some, by all means, but it should be a bit of an involved process. Thing is, if you don't know someone already that's an experienced climber, you may find someone good to help you along, you may not. I just wouldn't bank on it. Hiring a guide or taking courses may be a good idea. I've never used any of the outfits here, so I can't recommend one personally, but keep it open as an option. It's not necessarily cheap, but if it's a good outfit then it's money well spent, so I'd keep it open as an option.
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NiNe
Jul 17, 2008, 10:52 PM
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Oh okay. Thanks a bunch kriso9tails, I really appreciate all the feedback and info. I think Im going to go to my local indoor gym and get the owner to show me some stuff, shes pretty experienced. Thanks again.
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extreme_actuary
Jul 17, 2008, 11:43 PM
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Get a professional guide. You will learn a lot and have a lot of fun doing it. The money you spend will be well worth it.
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angelheadedhipster
Jul 22, 2008, 3:57 AM
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" Like Ive only done top roping and I really need and want to learn to trad climb." I must add that a jump from TR to trad is not advisable. one must first learn to lead on fixed gear before placing his/her own protection (imho). Also just because you have TRed in the gym does not mean that you can do it outside. I mean to say that while you may have solid belaying skills, you probably lack anchor setting skills. while in squamish a great deal of TRing is done on fixed gear, there is still a great deal of knowledge one must know in order to set up a correct and therefore safe anchor. your best bet is as many have already said is a prof guide. I bet someone at MEC would be able to recommend a good guiding service for you. Also a good/cheaper option would be to try to befriend someone on this site that would be willing to teach you the ropes. I just wanted to tell you that it is not a good idea to buy equipment without knowledge of its proper use and intend to figure it out on your own. In a sport like climbing the "error" in trial and error could be the end of your life. sorry about the doom and gloom, but I do think that climbing is a sport that deserves a great deal of reverence and respect. If you do however know how to correctly setup TR anchors, a lot of fun can be had in squamish doing just that , top roping. while sport leading and trad open up a lot of options, squamish is so massive that you could spend a whole season doing nothing but easy to intermediate TRs and never get bored. The smoke bluffs have a great deal of great TRs, 'Burgers and Frys' is a great beginner crag. Sorry, the tirade is over.
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NiNe
Jul 22, 2008, 4:24 AM
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hey angel, I respect your response very much and greatly appreciate your feedback! Im sorry, I actually mixed up trad climbing with lead climbing . I know Im not even close to the level of placing my own anchors I was meaning lead climbing and hooking up draws on the way up. Sorry for "leading" you on... lol sorry had to say it. Theres actually a local spot around here that me and buddies have been practicing TR. Its fixed anchors there too, nothing we have to place we just pass the rope through two anchor loops and were set lol. But I really want to pick up some quickdraws in the next couple weeks and try some lead climbing. Any tips for starting lead climbing? I do agree with you that rock climbing is extremely dangerous and definitely deserves respect. Thanks very much for your feedback! - Taylor
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vanclimber
Jul 22, 2008, 4:33 AM
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http://squamishrockguides.com/ Trust them, they are the best guides and climbing instructors in Squamish. They will teach you everything you need to know to climb safely in Squamish. Don
(This post was edited by vanclimber on Jul 22, 2008, 4:35 AM)
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NiNe
Jul 22, 2008, 4:36 AM
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thanks Vanclimbing I will make sure to look em up! I will see if I can get an instructor when my buds and I head up there.
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summerprophet
Jul 22, 2008, 5:18 AM
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Nine, I am a former Squamish climbing guide. There is a load of toproping to be had at the Smoke bluffs, enough to keep you busy for two or three months. As far as learning to lead, get in tight with local climbers or enquire as to Squamish Rock Guides or Canada West Mountain School, both Very reputable, and really top notch instruction. As to learning to lead climb, Squamish is a great place to learn, a double set of nuts and 6,7,8,9 hexes are a cheap start to lead up all the routes you worked on toprope in the bluffs. Best of luck in Squamish. It is a wonderful place to learn, a wonderful place to make friends, and a beautiful place to spend the summer. Unless you are toproping with no climbers above you, get a helmet. The cruiser stuff on the chief has waterbottles, shoes and gear constantly tumbling off it.
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NiNe
Jul 22, 2008, 10:21 PM
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Hey SummerProphet, Thanks very much for your response. I am looking forward to going so badly! I am rounding up some friends to go out there and hire a climbing guide. Im going to take a lesson to learn to lead climb as well as set up correct toproping anchors. Im also planning on buying some gear so I can lead climb at my local spot. Im not sure what you mean by "a double set of nuts and 6,7,8,9 hexes are a cheap start to lead up all the routes you worked on toprope in the bluffs." could you please explain that a little more so I know what your talking about sorry. I was just going to go out and buy about 10 quickdraws. Other than draws what would I need to lead climb (sport not trad)? Oh and when I go out and buy lead gear Im definitely buying a helmet. Thanks again!
(This post was edited by NiNe on Jul 22, 2008, 10:26 PM)
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summerprophet
Jul 22, 2008, 10:27 PM
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Nuts and Hexes are traditional protection that you carry with you in the event that the climb does not have any bolts. Normally I would suggeest delaying purchasing these until you get a good grasp on leading on bolts (called Sport Climbing), but Squamish has really incredible climbs that can be protected easilly on traditional gear, and if you develop the skills a bit now, your guide can evaluate your placements once you take a course, and give you advice and improvements to make. (Not that you should jump out and start leading tommorow, but certainly if you can afford them, buy a set of nuts and practice setting them in cracks.... a nut tool would be beneficial as well)
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nicodeemus
Jul 22, 2008, 10:42 PM
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I, and I'm sure most others would agree, would recommend that you take a lead climbing course at your local gym. In your course your instructor will teach you what you will need to know about lead climbing. Everything from how to clip your draws, to how to clean, etc. From there you will have a better idea of what equipment you will need to lead a route. Most Sport Climbing requires basic equipment... shoes, harness, chalk bag, helmet, rope, and about 8 - 10 Quickdraws to start. After you have become comfortable with leading sport routes, you can then progress to trad routes. Again, take a course from an acreditted instructor on how to Trad climb as well as how to build anchors. This is more of when you will require the nuts and hexes. When it comes to climbing, do things right. You life depends on it. It's great to be enthusiastic about the sport but it requires proper training and instruction. Take the time to learn the proper skills and techniques and you'll have years of climbing ahead of you.
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NiNe
Jul 22, 2008, 10:49 PM
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Hey thanks guys! This bouncing questions off and getting quick feedback is really helping and its great! I agree that I need to take a course for sure and am looking into it. In terms of gear it sounds like for now I need to buy some quickdraws and a helmet since I have the other gear and then when I get a little more advanced to buy some hexes and nuts and learn to lead trad. Thanks again guys! So would you say that a formal course is way better than meeting up with experienced climbers and them showing you the ropes?
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blueeyedclimber
Jul 23, 2008, 5:32 PM
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NiNe wrote: So would you say that a formal course is way better than meeting up with experienced climbers and them showing you the ropes? Yes. Now, there are tons of good climbers that could teach you safely. The problem is that you wouldn't be able to tell the difference between a quality instructor and some gumby who read a book and stopped at the store on his way to the crag. I have seen a lot of "so-called" instruction at the crags from wanna-bes who I wouldn't trust to drive me to the cliff. At least with a guiding outfit, they will have some kind of quality control with their guides and will be able to cater to your needs. Good Luck. Squamish is Awesome and I just got back on Monday after a week climbing there. Josh
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NiNe
Jul 23, 2008, 10:19 PM
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Thanks blueeyedclimber. Your advice is much appreciated. Then its settled Im getting some buddies together and were heading up to take a course in squamish. Im pretty amped
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nicodeemus
Jul 24, 2008, 2:45 AM
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Just get ready to kiss your wife and kids good bye. Once you get the bug, there's no turning back ;) Good luck with your course.
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NiNe
Jul 24, 2008, 10:06 PM
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haha the bugs already hit me. Climbing is on my mind all day at work and I just cant wait to head out to the cliffs to climb. Fortunately my gf of 3 years also likes climbing so we climb together quite a bit. Not quite at wife and kids yet
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sonso45
Jul 25, 2008, 6:00 AM
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I'll be heading up there in august. Can't hardly wait. You are lucky to have it so close to learn our craft. If you are up when I'm around, would be good to climb. pm me.
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tradrenn
Jul 27, 2008, 3:14 AM
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A few suggestions from me. #1 Go to "Home" page on this site and scroll down and on left hand side you will see "Getting Started", read that. #2 Go to MEC or Climb On (Climb On is in Squamish, google it to get the address) and buy some basic books about climbing. #3 For now, read as much about climbing as you can. Too much knowledge never killed anybody, but not enough can be deadly. #4 For the rest of this season you should only toprope and get as much climbing done as possible (outside that is ) #5 Do not buy Hexes, I will give you mine if you would like, they are good but, only on easier routes, which is what you should be climbing at first, it is generally refered to as "doing the mileage" #6 Spend some time on http://www.spadout.com reading about climbing gear. For example. http://www.spadout.com/w/trad-gear/ HTH
(This post was edited by tradrenn on Jul 27, 2008, 3:23 AM)
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NiNe
Jul 27, 2008, 4:31 AM
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tradrenn thanks for the great advice! I actually have already read that getting started bit and am definitely reading a bunch of gear and climbing in general just to get acquainted with it. Is there any books that you'd recommend reading? any favorites? Thats very generous of you to offer your hexes and would gladly take them off your hands when we go climbing sometime for sure.
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GeneralBenson
Jul 28, 2008, 8:15 PM
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NiNe wrote: hey angel, Its fixed anchors there too, nothing we have to place we just pass the rope through two anchor loops and were set lol. Just so you know, you're not supposed to toprope of of the bolts diretly. The are for building anchors off of, or for rappelling . You shouldn't just pass your rope through the 'loops', as it causes excessive wear on the fixed gear (I hope to God that you mean rap rings, and you aren't toproping off of bolt hangers). You should be building you're own anchor off of the bolts and toproping from that, so you putwear on your own carabiners and not the hardware.
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