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stymingersfink


Aug 3, 2008, 8:18 PM
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Re: [sungam] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
IclimbNAKED wrote:
The rock is still left damaged.
He should meet our BooBoo.
this one?


sungam


Aug 3, 2008, 10:22 PM
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stymingersfink wrote:
sungam wrote:
IclimbNAKED wrote:
The rock is still left damaged.
He should meet our BooBoo.
this one?
I meant craig adam.
He chops the bolts, grinds them smooth, grinds up some rock, and covers them over.
Oftentimes you would never know they were there.


uhoh


Aug 3, 2008, 11:14 PM
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Re: [hafilax] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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hafilax wrote:
What a circular and incoherent rant!

That argument doesn't make any sense. You both want to protect areas by making them public yet the person that owns it gets to do whatever she wants. So who decides what is protected, the owner or the government? What happens when they take away ownership? But ownership is the most important thing? Only an evil gub'ment would take away ownership.

I think I'll try to convince the government that your house is a historical landmark and that it should be protected from you. You could form a support group with Ken.

I believe you misread or misunderstood what Valarc was attempting to say.

When it comes to privately owned land, the land owner is responsible for its use and gets to make any decisions regarding its use.

When it comes to public land, either the public or the agency that is tasked with the land's management gets to make the decision regarding its use and internal policies.

Understandably, the government asserts itself in cases when one person's liberty to own land and use it in anyway conflicts with another person's liberty. An excellent example of this is relates to why farms are not permitted to use certain chemicals/pesticides - those chemicals do not always stay on a farmer's property. They leak into rivers, pollution crosses property lines, etc., etc. In such a case, a land owner's actions are jeopardizing the health of another person and as a result the offending party ought to be responsible for any adverse impacts on the other's health or land.

No one has a right to bolt any public land unless so authorized by the managing party, such as the USFS or whomever. If a route is bolted on public land where such an action is prohibited, it ought to be the responsibility of the manager to make a call on whether or not the bolts should be removed or permitted to exist. If bolting is forbidden and if the bolts are to be removed, those responsible for installing them should either be tasked with removing them or compensate the managing agency for the cost of removing them. A vigilante party such as Ken Nichols, though he may very well be a tax payer and a member of the public, does not have the authority to remove or install bolts.

If bolting is permitted on public land, then Local Ethics come into play. A route established on trad should not be bolted by anyone other than the party which established the route. If a trad route is bolted, then the establish party should probably have the authority per local ethic to remove those bolts. When an established sport route has its bolts chopped, it would certainly be reasonable for the establishing party to return and rebolt the route.

Now, I undersand some of you may disagree with what I've written and understably so. After all, my opinions conflict with yours. Rest assured however, that I am resolute not only in my opinion, but equally in my belief that I am right and you are wrong.


sungam


Aug 3, 2008, 11:25 PM
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Re: [uhoh] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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uhoh wrote:
Rest assured however, that I am resolute not only in my opinion, but equally in my belief that I am right and you are wrong.
Thanks man!


healyje


Aug 4, 2008, 8:16 AM
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Re: [mounter] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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mounter wrote:
Ken Nichols seems like a real kook. My take is be sensative and respectful of local practice, law, etc. ...and then if all is kosher, bolt away.

Now there's some really bad advice when it comes to CT...


mounter


Aug 4, 2008, 1:28 PM
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I honestly can't speak for CT...Maybe it's my Texas upbringing coming out


GeneralBenson


Aug 4, 2008, 3:03 PM
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Re: [healyje] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
mounter wrote:
Ken Nichols seems like a real kook. My take is be sensative and respectful of local practice, law, etc. ...and then if all is kosher, bolt away.

Now there's some really bad advice when it comes to CT...

Agreed. Despite the fact the it seems "weird" to you, as a CT climber who just moved away a month ago, I can assure you that the no bolt ethic is widely agreed upon. So the question is, who are you to come in as the new guy to the CT climbing scene and start changing stuff. Pay your dues, get to know locals, understand the ethic, climb the rock and see what it's all about. The bottom line is, you have no perspective on the climbing scene other than the way it looks from the outside. When I started, I thought it was retarted that no bolts could be placed. You think, oh if only this line had a bolt there, or that face route would be an awesome sport route. Lots of climbs in CT have big runouts, lots of route have nothing bigger than a .3 camalot, but no one is making you climb anything. I love sport climbing, I think it's a blast, but in CT you either climb the rock the way it was created, or you leave it alone; and that's how people like it there.


stymingersfink


Aug 4, 2008, 4:06 PM
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Re: [sungam] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
uhoh wrote:
Rest assured however, that I am resolute not only in my opinion, but equally in my belief that I am right and you are wrong.
Thanks man!
you little bitch!


sungam


Aug 4, 2008, 4:55 PM
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Angelic


Valarc


Aug 4, 2008, 5:04 PM
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Re: [healyje] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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healyje wrote:
mounter wrote:
My take is be sensative and respectful of local practice, law, etc. ...and then if all is kosher, bolt away.

Now there's some really bad advice when it comes to CT...

Why is it bad advice when it comes to CT? From reading this and other threads, it seems like the local practice in CT is don't bolt anything. Mounter's advice was, be sensitive to local practice, and if it is kosher then bolt - since it's not kosher according to local practice, it seems Mounter's advice is "don't bolt it". How is that bad advice?


healyje


Aug 4, 2008, 5:12 PM
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Re: [Valarc] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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Valarc wrote:
healyje wrote:
mounter wrote:
My take is be sensative and respectful of local practice, law, etc. ...and then if all is kosher, bolt away.

Now there's some really bad advice when it comes to CT...

Why is it bad advice when it comes to CT? From reading this and other threads, it seems like the local practice in CT is don't bolt anything. Mounter's advice was, be sensitive to local practice, and if it is kosher then bolt - since it's not kosher according to local practice, it seems Mounter's advice is "don't bolt it". How is that bad advice?

Any advice related to CT that contains the phrase "bolt away" in any context is less than helpful, however well-meaning...


Valarc


Aug 4, 2008, 6:55 PM
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healyje wrote:
Any advice related to CT that contains the phrase "bolt away" in any context is less than helpful, however well-meaning...

So if someone asked me if it was OK to bolt in CT, and I responded with...

"Sure, if you're 12 feet tall and piss rainbows, bolt away!"

Would that be bad advice?


sungam


Aug 4, 2008, 7:13 PM
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Valarc wrote:
healyje wrote:
Any advice related to CT that contains the phrase "bolt away" in any context is less than helpful, however well-meaning...

So if someone asked me if it was OK to bolt in CT, and I responded with...

"Sure, if you're 12 feet tall and piss rainbows, bolt away!"

Would that be bad advice?
Wooo!
Honey! get the hilti!
We're goin' to CT!!!


fitzontherocks


Aug 4, 2008, 7:55 PM
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Anybody know how current the "breaking news" piece on stopken.org is?
The first line reads:
On Monday, July 16th, Ken Nichols pled guilty to trespassing and pled no contest to willful destruction of property in Orange County Court in Orange, MA. Charges were filed after Nichols was caught chopping 'Mass Production' (5.10d) at Farley Ledges in April of 2007.

is that July 16th of 08? That trial sounds like it was fun.


crankyclimber


Aug 4, 2008, 8:28 PM
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Re: [Valarc] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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You signed off on the HOA rules before the close of escrow so suck it up. You can always join the board and help shape the rules or buy a house without them.

My sister climbs with a guy who illegally bolts any piece of choss. I don't approve but at least they aren't bolting any cracks.


Valarc


Aug 4, 2008, 8:32 PM
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ACTUALLY, I never got a copy of the rules until after the closing on the home. I'm pretty sure that's illegal, but frankly I don't have the resources to fight it, and I plan to sell the house soon anyway so it's probably not worth the effort.

My next house will definitely be without an HOA, and good luck joining the board with the old-lady clique that runs this place. The opinion of anyone under 50 holds no weight in this neighborhood Crazy


IclimbNAKED


Aug 5, 2008, 2:22 AM
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sungam wrote:
He chops the bolts, grinds them smooth, grinds up some rock, and covers them over.

Well, if this is true, then that's quite an intense restoration.


stymingersfink


Aug 5, 2008, 2:32 AM
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IclimbNAKED wrote:
sungam wrote:
He chops the bolts, grinds them smooth, grinds up some rock, and covers them over.

Well, if this is true, then that's quite an intense restoration.
Monkey here in the Wasatch holds himself to a similarly high standard. His work is exemplary, such that the ASCA keeps him well supplied with bolts and hangars.

He seems more than happy to share his knowledge, though it will take you more than a few weekends to absorb even a tiny portion of what he has to teach.


IclimbNAKED


Aug 5, 2008, 3:35 AM
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While that's interesting, I'm not even near the restoring-rock phase of my life, ah ha. Although it would be a really cool venture to get into as it is sort of a parallel to any everyday-environmentalism we take part in. Funny how getting your facts straight can totally change your perspective. What I once considered to be a perverse act committed by stubborn and crusty trad climbers, I now think to be an undertaking in the interest of returning the rock to a more universal state for use O_o.


dondada


Aug 5, 2008, 5:40 AM
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Re: [GeneralBenson] weird ethics anyone?? [In reply to]
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here is a little quote from sam todzia a long time CT climber i found this on
mountainproject...i think it sums it up
"Leaders should never assume fixed protection will be in place before getting on a climb, even if the piece/pin/bolt was there yesterday, it could be gone today. Fixed pro is a fickle subject in CT; any bolt placed will most likely find itself faithfully smashed/removed in a timely fashion.
Top rope anchors can be made using protection, although sometimes requiring a little creativity. However, most will lug an extra static rope along to access the trees at the cliff tops. This can get heavy if you intend on setting up more than one climb at some crags, such as the main cliff, where trees can be as far as 50 or more feet back from the cliff edge. A minimum of 100 feet static rope or webbing is recommended. One should never use a single point anchor on any of these trees because they are typically fragile and sparse, if we kill them, you’ll need to lug even more static line. Perhaps, in another lifetime, fixed anchors will finally be considered acceptable and climbers and trees alike can rejoice!!

I thought about adding more about CT's "rich" history of ethical stubbornness, but I figured that if I did, then people might not take the description seriously. At the same time, CT climbing is pathetically trying to hold onto its past. There is no room for climbing to move forward to what it is today. High end sport climbing is not unavailable here, its just not allowed. Thats the reason there is nothing harder than the two 5.13s or so (that no ones climbing, by the way). I think climbers here are also scared that the sport will get more popular if it is allowed to develop into sport climbing. Maybe Ken Nichols is scarred people will forget about his achievements if people start zipping up 5.13s. He wants us to keep it like it was in his heyday in the 70's and 80's. Thing is...its not the 70's and 80's. Climbing has progressed! and while CT doesn't have a lot to offer, it has a lot of untapped potential. I guess I'm just hoping that because I'm gonna live here for the rest of my life, I'd like to be able to climb in the way that I love. Sort of a tease otherwise"


(This post was edited by dondada on Aug 5, 2008, 5:43 AM)


healyje


Aug 5, 2008, 6:15 AM
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dondada wrote:
here is a little quote from sam todzia a long time CT climber i found this on
mountainproject...i think it sums it up
"Leaders should never assume fixed protection will be in place before getting on a climb, even if the piece/pin/bolt was there yesterday, it could be gone today. Fixed pro is a fickle subject in CT; any bolt placed will most likely find itself faithfully smashed/removed in a timely fashion.
Top rope anchors can be made using protection, although sometimes requiring a little creativity. However, most will lug an extra static rope along to access the trees at the cliff tops. This can get heavy if you intend on setting up more than one climb at some crags, such as the main cliff, where trees can be as far as 50 or more feet back from the cliff edge. A minimum of 100 feet static rope or webbing is recommended. One should never use a single point anchor on any of these trees because they are typically fragile and sparse, if we kill them, you’ll need to lug even more static line. Perhaps, in another lifetime, fixed anchors will finally be considered acceptable and climbers and trees alike can rejoice!!

I thought about adding more about CT's "rich" history of ethical stubbornness, but I figured that if I did, then people might not take the description seriously. At the same time, CT climbing is pathetically trying to hold onto its past. There is no room for climbing to move forward to what it is today. High end sport climbing is not unavailable here, its just not allowed. Thats the reason there is nothing harder than the two 5.13s or so (that no ones climbing, by the way). I think climbers here are also scared that the sport will get more popular if it is allowed to develop into sport climbing. Maybe Ken Nichols is scarred people will forget about his achievements if people start zipping up 5.13s. He wants us to keep it like it was in his heyday in the 70's and 80's. Thing is...its not the 70's and 80's. Climbing has progressed! and while CT doesn't have a lot to offer, it has a lot of untapped potential. I guess I'm just hoping that because I'm gonna live here for the rest of my life, I'd like to be able to climb in the way that I love. Sort of a tease otherwise"

Yep, that rant pretty succincty sums up the sport climbers lament. I especially love the part about CT not having a lot to offer - unless of course sport climbers are offering it. Well, that "rich history of ethical stubborness" has sustained endless hard lines I suspect most of your camp could never come up with the goods to get on, let alone climb. It's as specious an argument today as it was when folks first started trying to bolt CT against all traditions and advice.

You want to replay the worst of the past? Then just keep thinking you can blithely go down that same path yet again and somehow reap a different result. The arrogance and disrespect inherent in this most recent push to bolt CT has the same old odor no matter who's pushing it this time.


(This post was edited by healyje on Aug 5, 2008, 6:23 AM)


dondada


Aug 5, 2008, 1:27 PM
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healyje wrote:
dondada wrote:
High end sport climbing is not unavailable here, its just not allowed. Thats the reason there is nothing harder than the two 5.13s or so (that no ones climbing, by the way).
-sam todzia-

Well, that "rich history of ethical stubborness" has sustained endless hard lines I suspect most of your camp could never come up with the goods to get on, let alone climb.
two 5.13's that nobody is getting on doesn't sound like "endless hard lines". either way i dont belong to any "camp" just trying to find out the local climate in my home state. like i said in my opening post trad rules and im learning to place gear and lead trad slowly so please dont paint me into a corner with some kook with a drill and no regard for local practiceWink


(This post was edited by dondada on Aug 5, 2008, 1:33 PM)


GeneralBenson


Aug 5, 2008, 2:58 PM
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dondada wrote:
healyje wrote:
dondada wrote:
High end sport climbing is not unavailable here, its just not allowed. Thats the reason there is nothing harder than the two 5.13s or so (that no ones climbing, by the way).
-sam todzia-

Well, that "rich history of ethical stubborness" has sustained endless hard lines I suspect most of your camp could never come up with the goods to get on, let alone climb.
two 5.13's that nobody is getting on doesn't sound like "endless hard lines". either way i dont belong to any "camp" just trying to find out the local climate in my home state. like i said in my opening post trad rules and im learning to place gear and lead trad slowly so please dont paint me into a corner with some kook with a drill and no regard for local practiceWink
Yeah... Endless potential... That's hilarious. Let me start by saying, I absolutely love CT climbing. Now, with that said, CT climbing is crap. It's chossy, it's falling apart, the gear all sucks, it's sandbagged, and it's all small. I don't understand people trying to make CT something that it isn't. It'll just be chossy, short, blocky, sandbagged routes, with bolts on them. Either love it or what it is, or don't climb it. I mean there's so much good stuff around, go climb it. Farley, Rumney, North conway, Gunks. In any bigger sate no one think twice about driving 2-4 hours for some world class climbing, but in CT people whine because they want it here. The other factor is access. Everything in connecticut has access problem. THe better the cliff, the worse the access problems. So we're gonna add bolts, attract more gumbies and get cliffs shut down, that'd be awesome, let's do that.


stymingersfink


Aug 5, 2008, 3:34 PM
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GeneralBenson wrote:
dondada wrote:
healyje wrote:
dondada wrote:
High end sport climbing is not unavailable here, its just not allowed. Thats the reason there is nothing harder than the two 5.13s or so (that no ones climbing, by the way).
-sam todzia-

Well, that "rich history of ethical stubborness" has sustained endless hard lines I suspect most of your camp could never come up with the goods to get on, let alone climb.
two 5.13's that nobody is getting on doesn't sound like "endless hard lines". either way i dont belong to any "camp" just trying to find out the local climate in my home state. like i said in my opening post trad rules and im learning to place gear and lead trad slowly so please dont paint me into a corner with some kook with a drill and no regard for local practiceWink
Yeah... Endless potential... That's hilarious. Let me start by saying, I absolutely love CT climbing. Now, with that said, CT climbing is crap. It's chossy, it's falling apart, the gear all sucks, it's sandbagged, and it's all small. I don't understand people trying to make CT something that it isn't. It'll just be chossy, short, blocky, sandbagged routes, with bolts on them. Either love it or what it is, or don't climb it. I mean there's so much good stuff around, go climb it. Farley, Rumney, North conway, Gunks. In any bigger sate no one think twice about driving 2-4 hours for some world class climbing, but in CT people whine because they want it here. The other factor is access. Everything in connecticut has access problem. THe better the cliff, the worse the access problems. So we're gonna add bolts, attract more gumbies and get cliffs shut down, that'd be awesome, let's do that.
I've never been there, probably never will, but its not difficult to see that

^^this is korekt.


healyje


Aug 5, 2008, 6:04 PM
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dondada wrote:
two 5.13's that nobody is getting on doesn't sound like "endless hard lines". either way i dont belong to any "camp" just trying to find out the local climate in my home state. like i said in my opening post trad rules and im learning to place gear and lead trad slowly so please dont paint me into a corner with some kook with a drill and no regard for local practiceWink

I won't and that all sounds good. I'd just say you might want to consider reserving judgment until you are trad climbing solidly at a fairly high level. Never know, things might look a little different after you've paid those dues and it sounds like you're on your way in that regard. I'd say keep at it all then as there's plenty of CT lines to learn on and progress through.

No one is claiming it's the Gunks or Cathedral, CT is what it is. And what it offers the NE is fairly unique - the whole of NE would be poorer without it.

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