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ChainingDrawsFTW
Aug 8, 2008, 8:22 PM
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Hello all,
So I was reading this thread here http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread about using chained draws to "solo" a route without a rope and had a few questions maybe you could answer?
* I'm new to climbing, and didn't have the money to buy a rope but my friend left me like 20 long extendable quickdraws...so after reading the thread, I got an idea about how I can use them to climb a sport route (but don't worry, I'm going to be very careful about the whole thing detaching from the bolts.) Any advice on how best to use the chained draws as a means of protection while climbing?
* Let's say I get to the top of the route on my 20 draw chain, this presents the problem of getting down. How could I rap down this chain? Obviously an ATC or something wouldn't work. And a hip style rap would hurt a lot because of the biners on the draws aren't smooth like a rope or something. Any ideas how I could make it down from the top?
* The draws I have to use in the chain don't have lockers on them. Do you think this makes using the chain as a rope dangerous?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks all!
Hank
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yokese
Aug 8, 2008, 8:26 PM
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T -1 
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scotty1974
Aug 8, 2008, 8:27 PM
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First off, the thread you were reading was in the injuries and accidents forum....soooo....that should give you a BIG heads up. I think even elaborating on that really isn't necessary...
Second... Sounds like you should boulder instead., or climb in a gym.
Third...Buy a rope. They keep you alive, that's what they are made for. If you don't have money, save, or get a job, sell blood etc.
Sounds a little curt, but I'd rather not read about another climber getting hurt or dying by being a jack*ss and doing something stupid. You only have one life brother.
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basecamp
Aug 8, 2008, 8:31 PM
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Hank.... you're going to die!!! Buy a rope, if you can't afford a rope, borrow a rope, if you don't have friends that can loan you a rope, don't climb.
If you're new to climbing the last thing you should attempting is soloing... especially on a rig like you're talking about. Troll
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kingbiscuit
Aug 8, 2008, 8:32 PM
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I think you are better off just buying a used rope for $50 or so. This may work but it sounds sketchy and there definitely won't be as much redundancy as there is in a top rope system with double bolts because I am guessing that it involves using the bolts on sport routes. I am not sure.
Can't you figure out a buddy system to split up the cost of gear?
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bennydh
Aug 8, 2008, 8:34 PM
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Hmm. Maybe just use a thick pair of work gloves and slide down it like a fire pole?
Or you can carry up 30m of 8mm trail line, an atc, and a fifi hook. hang the trail line off of the fifi at the top bolt hanger or anchor, and rap down, unclipping all the draws as you go. Then when you are on the ground shake the rap/trail line until the fifi hook unhooks.
I just wouldn't rap more than one person off at a time. fifis are body weight only, not 2x body weight.
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ChainingDrawsFTW
Aug 8, 2008, 8:36 PM
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Yeah I know it was on the injuries forum but I just need to make sure the line of draws doesn't come undone from the bolts and then I'll be okk?
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time2clmb
Aug 8, 2008, 8:37 PM
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kingbiscuit wrote: I think you are better off just buying a used rope for $50 or so. This may work but it sounds sketchy and there definitely won't be as much redundancy as there is in a top rope system with double bolts because I am guessing that it involves using the bolts on sport routes. I am not sure. Can't you figure out a buddy system to split up the cost of gear?
Maybe you should shut the fuck up. You obviously have no business giving climbing advice.
Same to Benndh...what are you fucking stupid or what?
I know these are probably trolls but there are plenty of people out there stupid enough to use this info. This thread is a perfect example of why I have no faith in mankind.
(This post was edited by time2clmb on Aug 8, 2008, 8:41 PM)
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ChainingDrawsFTW
Aug 8, 2008, 8:39 PM
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Also I guess I should add that the webbing on the draws is rated pretty high. Like it will support 22Kn or so which should be more than enough? Are ropes rated about the same or stronger?
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bennydh
Aug 8, 2008, 8:40 PM
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Thanks for the advice time2climb. Your input was helpful and insightful.
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time2clmb
Aug 8, 2008, 8:43 PM
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bennydh wrote: Thanks for the advice time2climb. Your input was helpful and insightful.
Here's some advice to the op. Get a fucking rope....a proper climbing rope and learn how to use the systems properly. I can't believe I just gave advice to a fricken troll.
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kingbiscuit
Aug 8, 2008, 8:52 PM
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Sounds like the guy is going to free solo if he has to. Of 2 shitty options this one is the better. Why does this board have to be ruined by assholes like yourself. If you want to critique my opinion feel free, or just insult people. Whatever. I have met so many awesome people climbing but they obviously don't spend much time on this board.
(This post was edited by kingbiscuit on Aug 8, 2008, 8:57 PM)
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patmay81
Aug 8, 2008, 8:55 PM
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and its not even a good troll. c'mon, its so stupid... buy/borrow/steal a rope and quit being so freakin retarded!
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majid_sabet
Aug 8, 2008, 8:55 PM
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time2clmb wrote: kingbiscuit wrote: I think you are better off just buying a used rope for $50 or so. This may work but it sounds sketchy and there definitely won't be as much redundancy as there is in a top rope system with double bolts because I am guessing that it involves using the bolts on sport routes. I am not sure. Can't you figure out a buddy system to split up the cost of gear? . You obviously have no business giving climbing advice. Same to Benndh... what are you fucking stupid or what? I know these are probably trolls but there are plenty of people out there stupid enough to use this info. This thread is a perfect example of why I have no faith in mankind.
be nice to new climber or else
I'll kick ur as*
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ChainingDrawsFTW
Aug 8, 2008, 8:55 PM
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ok time2climb I think your prob right. Some of my friends have been begging me to take them climbing and told me they'd pay me $10 each time I took them outside. So I'll prob only need to do like 3-4 trips with my friends before they will have paid me enough for a rope.  I could still use some answers to my ???s though since it will be a few trips until I get my rope (I want static rope right? Like the draws?) but I think it's a good plan and I'm excited now. 
Or I could just donate blood like someone said, but I'll make sure to not climb after donating, lol, cuz that would be unsafe. I don't want to end up looking like this guy here: 
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patmay81
Aug 8, 2008, 8:58 PM
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majid, i doubt your red and green arrowisms could kick anyones as*. what is an as* any way?
as far as the new climer (troll), if he is in fact a new climber and truly not a troll, he wont be climbing for long with ideas of climbing above bolts with only static webbing for protection, and rapping off a chain of bolts.
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bennydh
Aug 8, 2008, 9:03 PM
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Chain of draws, not bolts. I don't think you understood the description, or what he is trying to accomplish.
Thanks for being cool Majid.
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ChainingDrawsFTW
Aug 8, 2008, 9:13 PM
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lol @ chain of bolts. I jsut got a funny mental image. You'd need so many bolts to chain together for protection!!! 
But serious patmay I appreciate your commnet...but I don't understand why my ideas are bad? scotty said it would prob work what I'm trying. Also your name reminds me of PADMAY from star wars it sounds just like it...natale portmann is def hot amirite guys? 
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ChainingDrawsFTW
Aug 8, 2008, 9:14 PM
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oh i meant kingbiscuit not scotty in the post above. ^^^
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patmay81
Aug 8, 2008, 9:14 PM
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I understand perfectly what he is TRYING to accomplish, the worst troll in rc history... im pretty sure he's close to suckseeding [sic]
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scotty1974
Aug 8, 2008, 9:21 PM
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I'll only reply because I like people not to get hurt and I'm bored at work. I wouldn't attempt what you're thinking under any circumstances. Boulder or buy a rope. Who is going to come get you when you get stuck halfway up, clipped into a draw.
Seriously dude...People with a lifetime of trad skills, experience and balls die or get hurt from simple mistakes..even while playing it safe. You should probably take a long look at what want to attempt.
You don't seem to have the experience or know how to even be attempting things of this nature. Don't be a stat... You make the rest of us look bad.
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time2clmb
Aug 8, 2008, 9:23 PM
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majid_sabet wrote: time2clmb wrote: kingbiscuit wrote: I think you are better off just buying a used rope for $50 or so. This may work but it sounds sketchy and there definitely won't be as much redundancy as there is in a top rope system with double bolts because I am guessing that it involves using the bolts on sport routes. I am not sure. Can't you figure out a buddy system to split up the cost of gear? . You obviously have no business giving climbing advice. Same to Benndh... what are you fucking stupid or what? I know these are probably trolls but there are plenty of people out there stupid enough to use this info. This thread is a perfect example of why I have no faith in mankind. be nice to new climber or else I'll kick ur as*
That's the funniest thing I have heard in a while. So how much time did you spend in kickboxing? Be careful who you are threatening guy.
(This post was edited by time2clmb on Aug 8, 2008, 9:30 PM)
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bennydh
Aug 8, 2008, 9:32 PM
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I've got money on Majid. I've never met a canadian I couldn't beat up. Isn't that why they are all in comedy groups and not in the UFC?
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moose_droppings
Aug 8, 2008, 10:13 PM
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ChainingDrawsFTW wrote: Hello all, So I was reading this thread here http://www.rockclimbing.com/...4;page=unread#unread about using chained draws to "solo" a route without a rope and had a few questions maybe you could answer? * I'm new to climbing, and didn't have the money to buy a rope but my friend left me like 20 long extendable quickdraws...so after reading the thread, I got an idea about how I can use them to climb a sport route (but don't worry, I'm going to be very careful about the whole thing detaching from the bolts.) Any advice on how best to use the chained draws as a means of protection while climbing? * Let's say I get to the top of the route on my 20 draw chain, this presents the problem of getting down. How could I rap down this chain? Obviously an ATC or something wouldn't work. And a hip style rap would hurt a lot because of the biners on the draws aren't smooth like a rope or something. Any ideas how I could make it down from the top? * The draws I have to use in the chain don't have lockers on them. Do you think this makes using the chain as a rope dangerous? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks all! Hank
All these posts and nobody has quoted the OP yet yet.
sheez
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