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shear


Aug 12, 2008, 7:52 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] UAsunflower? [In reply to]
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chronic will be wet....you have my word....


jakedatc


Aug 12, 2008, 8:00 PM
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Re: [shear] UAsunflower? [In reply to]
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dohhhh stupid rain Mad


ratherbe


Aug 13, 2008, 12:48 AM
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Re: [wonderwoman] MA Route Page [In reply to]
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wonderwoman wrote:
Still haven't encountered any chiggers. You all must be tastier than I am.

Lucky you!

I find it most annoying that they don't really like humans... we're just there so they take advantage. I read somewhere that their natural hosts don't suffer the swelling and irritation that we do. Injustice.


troutboy


Aug 13, 2008, 1:02 PM
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Re: [ratherbe] MA Route Page [In reply to]
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Some random chigger thoughts from someone who grew up in the south, where they are really bad...

1) Do not sit on the rocks at the cliff base and especially do not sit while belaying at the GT ledge, unless...

2) Use Permanone or another pyrethrin-based product. DEET will not stop them. Spray Permanone on your socks (if you wear them), your pants legs, and around your waist band (consider harness issues here, do not spray with harness on and let it dry first). Do not spray pyrethrins on your skin.

3) The itching is an allergic reaction to the enzymes the chigger releases before it realizes you are not a proper host. Over the counter non-drowzy antihistamines work great to relieve the itch.

4) Normal showering is usually not enough to dislodge the chigger. Like GO, scrub thoroughly with a rag or lufa, etc while showering and that should work. Shower as soon as possible after exposure.

Now, enjoy the Gunks chigger-free.

TS


robbovius


Aug 13, 2008, 5:18 PM
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Re: [troutboy] MA Route Page [In reply to]
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Trout, thanks, yeah I did both of step 1. [scratching] damn it![/scratching]


comparedtowhat


Aug 14, 2008, 2:07 AM
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Metro Tonight [In reply to]
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While all you more experienced climbers are out in the great wilds of whereever I had the sad experience of seeing a young man deck tonight from a TR @ Metro.....he fell from the top and from what his buddy said it may have been a bad tie in. The young man had only been climbing for about a month from what his friend told me. Will leave it to Josh to get the details on this one. He was moving a bit and talking but I have no idea of how injured he was when they took him away in the ambulance. So weird...as I saw him fall I assumed "Oh he is taking one of those epic Tiff falls that she does on the prow!" But that was not the case....

Katedevi


jakedatc


Aug 14, 2008, 5:29 AM
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Re: [comparedtowhat] Metro Tonight [In reply to]
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Yea.. between you and another person who was there the details still seem to limited as to what happened. Hopefully they make a full recovery and stuff..

on a happier note.... Farley still sucks.. alot..
awesome time you guy.. josh, tiff and jen, Blake :) Jen and Tiff rackin up frequent flier miles pushing limits woohoo. Clip or whip!

i need to get back in shape. I need to re-frame the home wall so it's wider and slightly less steep so it's more useful for longer training sessions.

edit: oww.. gotta love finding scrapes and cuts you didnt know about in the shower. i havent taken this kind of beating in a long time


(This post was edited by jakedatc on Aug 14, 2008, 6:04 AM)


jumaringjeff


Aug 14, 2008, 12:53 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Metro Tonight [In reply to]
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Gabe, thanks for the BBQ last week, good times. It was nice seeing the old gym crew. Good luck in the west!

Rob, awesome reading about your Gunks trip. Sounds amazing...

I'm relieved that Julia is ok. How scary!

I hope everyone is having a great summer. I would love to climb with any and all of you, but as usual I'm completely swamped with gigs, teaching, an upcoming move, and a damn day job on top of it all.

Ice this winter WILL happen. Finally. Rob, count me in. ;-)

Cheers everyone!


(This post was edited by jumaringjeff on Aug 14, 2008, 12:55 PM)


fresh


Aug 14, 2008, 1:40 PM
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Re: [comparedtowhat] Metro Tonight [In reply to]
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comparedtowhat wrote:
While all you more experienced climbers are out in the great wilds of whereever I had the sad experience of seeing a young man deck tonight from a TR @ Metro.....he fell from the top and from what his buddy said it may have been a bad tie in. The young man had only been climbing for about a month from what his friend told me. Will leave it to Josh to get the details on this one. He was moving a bit and talking but I have no idea of how injured he was when they took him away in the ambulance. So weird...as I saw him fall I assumed "Oh he is taking one of those epic Tiff falls that she does on the prow!" But that was not the case....

Katedevi
anyone have any more info on this?


Gmburns2000


Aug 14, 2008, 2:56 PM
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Kid fell a long way, had a bloody nose, could feel all his fingers and toes (move them, too), was wheeled out on a stretcher and put in a neck brace just in case. He didn't move from his original position after he fell until the paramedics moved him, but that may have been because he was advised not to move.

I was about 5 feet away on the next rope over, but was just enough around the corner to hear the thud and not see it. He was in pain, but wasn't shouting or screaming or anything (just kind of moaning and dealing with the pain). He and his nearby friends were all / mostly wearing rental gear (thus likely a beginner).

I've heard rumors of poor belaying and / or not being tied in properly, but can't substantiate any of that. To be honest, it really wasn't that dramatic despite the big fall. The gym staff seemed to react very well, quickly, and appropriately. It wasn't a particularly busy night, but the gym definitely cleared out after that.


shear


Aug 14, 2008, 5:29 PM
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Re: [jakedatc] Metro Tonight [In reply to]
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what else did you guys get on Jake? Josh have luck on Bandwagon?


jakedatc


Aug 14, 2008, 6:09 PM
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He got it with one hang on his 2nd try.. he's got the beta down now just a matter of having fresh arms on it.

for the day i did TR Yosemite crack w/ bolt finish .8 to .11?, eye opener .9 (twice) , The beach .11?, tried TR bandwagon .12b, TR'd some 10c with bolts then gear up top (other side of arete from eyeopener), tried, failed and bailed on Stinger 10d

hopefully jen got some good pics of various people to post up.. when she wakes up *yawwwn* i didn't get home till 1am


wonderwoman


Aug 14, 2008, 6:59 PM
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Blake - thanks so much for showing us around Farley yesterday! We wanted to come see the route you were putting up, but got done climbing at 7:30 and were pretty darn tired! Allan said you would likely be way up there on the route by the time we found you, anyway. But thanks for your hospitality - it was a great time - and best of luck in CO.


blueeyedclimber


Aug 15, 2008, 12:45 PM
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fresh wrote:
comparedtowhat wrote:
While all you more experienced climbers are out in the great wilds of whereever I had the sad experience of seeing a young man deck tonight from a TR @ Metro.....he fell from the top and from what his buddy said it may have been a bad tie in. The young man had only been climbing for about a month from what his friend told me. Will leave it to Josh to get the details on this one. He was moving a bit and talking but I have no idea of how injured he was when they took him away in the ambulance. So weird...as I saw him fall I assumed "Oh he is taking one of those epic Tiff falls that she does on the prow!" But that was not the case....

Katedevi
anyone have any more info on this?

I have first hand info from people who were there. Apparently the kid, who was about 15, had tied in through the rope guard behind the leg loop tie in (and only that) His harness was still buckled and the figure-8 and backup was still tied at the top of the wall. He went to lean back and that thin piece of nylon and it either broke or came undone. This is unsubstantiated, but is the only conclusion that I can come to with the info given. I do not know the status of the kid. He did leave in an ambulance.

Josh


blueeyedclimber


Aug 15, 2008, 12:50 PM
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shear wrote:
what else did you guys get on Jake? Josh have luck on Bandwagon?

I tried it twice. Second time went better than the first, but I didn't have enough left to do the big move at the 4th(?) bolt. I one-hung it. It'll go next time.

Speaking of routes, what is the rating of Salty Dog? Also, what is the name of the 5.9 around the corner?

Thanks for showing is around, We really appreciate it. Wait, you are Blake, right?

Josh


blueeyedclimber


Aug 15, 2008, 1:37 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
... I do not know the status of the kid. He did leave in an ambulance.

Josh

Just got an update. X-rays came back negative. He will be fine, except for some back pain. That's good news.

This is a good reminder, even for experienced climbers. Please check your climber before they leave the ground. Every time!

Be safe, kids!

Josh


wonderwoman


Aug 15, 2008, 2:32 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote:
Just got an update. X-rays came back negative. He will be fine, except for some back pain. That's good news.

Yippee! Good news!

Isn't it great that young kids bounce instead of break?


dovaka


Aug 15, 2008, 3:47 PM
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anyone up for climbing today [In reply to]
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my plans fell threw so now im going to make a attempt at finding anyone that would want to go climb at college rock purgatory or crowhill today anytime

ill be checking for a couple hours


fresh


Aug 15, 2008, 5:36 PM
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Re: [dovaka] anyone up for climbing today [In reply to]
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good to hear the kid's all right.

I'd just like to vent about how unbelievably shitty the weather has been this summer. in april I climbed funhouse and upper refuse in drizzle. oh well, it was spring. I made plans to climb at cathedral and cannon a few other times, and got rained out. went to rumney three times, it rained twice. was going to go to the gunks a few weeks back, but again the weather looked crappy. climbed whitehorse after it rained the night before, with thunderheads threatening the whole time. did an attempt on the prow that rained us out.

and after making plans to climb moby grape with a friend of mine this saturday (who leaves for college next week), there's a 30-50% chance of thunderstorms. and that's all across new hampshire and massachusetts. WTF.

rant over.

ok, things could be worse. when I climbed whitehorse we were out longer than I'd planned, and way past the time that thunderstorms were supposed to start. that would've sucked. I also went whitewater rafting this weekend, and despite the terrible weather forecasts, it was really nice out. win some lose some.


shear


Aug 16, 2008, 12:35 PM
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Nice job on Bandwagon man...that takes some people a long time to do...but it's definitely your style, given the success on the Beach.

Salty Dog is 10c...maybe b...onsight, 10c, knowing the low crux it's easier.

Eye opener is the 9.

glad you guys had fun...and next time you'll have to check out the other stuff. I'll be around after the 22nd for 2 weeks, then I'm moving to CO. So get in touch if you want to make it back out and climb some different stuff.

Take care...


Gmburns2000


Aug 18, 2008, 4:28 PM
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It's a bit late, but my long weekend with Jen at the Gunks last weekend is finally posted. Twas an interesting weekend: full of snakes, rain, and bad luck.

Jeremiah also has a post up regarding Vedauwoo and Boulder Canyon. Hope you enjoy them.

Greg


robbovius


Aug 18, 2008, 6:56 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Metro Tonight [In reply to]
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hey look above, I got Modded, in the MCT no less, for my "Ch____h PLEEZE!"

WTF.


...and rockclimbing.com enters a "new and exciting!" phase

lame
lame
lame lame lame lame.


(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 18, 2008, 6:57 PM)


wonderwoman


Aug 18, 2008, 7:11 PM
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Now you're self moderating! Did they send you a PM or something?


robbovius


Aug 19, 2008, 11:12 AM
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wonderwoman wrote:
Now you're self moderating! Did they send you a PM or something?

nope. just deleted the post.

ah well, don't wanna scare away new potential advertisers I suppose.

"Oh my GOD! Can you believe him? He said CHIGGER!"

can't call 'em chiggers anymore, gotta call 'em chegroes.

oh enough of that.

big road trip comin' up for me, worth ditching guitar lesson money for. once I'm out on the rock bathed in warm sunlight, messing about with gear, sleeping out under the stars, I won't care about any of this.


(This post was edited by robbovius on Aug 19, 2008, 11:16 AM)


wonderwoman


Aug 19, 2008, 1:30 PM
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robbovius wrote:
"Oh my GOD! Can you believe him? He said CHIGGER!

From Merriam-Webster:

Chigger: [alteration of jigger] : a 6-legged mite larva (family Trombiculidae) that sucks the blood of vertebrates and causes intense irritation

Dear Dick Williams -

We demand that you take out any reference to those annoying bugs in your next guidebook!

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