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core
Aug 29, 2008, 4:53 PM
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ratherbe
Aug 29, 2008, 4:58 PM
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core wrote: bomber anchor...more is better right?  [image]http://lh5.ggpht.com/crbrett/RvCMMRovNQI/AAAAAAAAA-8/xPGJDXbgDUk/IMG_1422.JPG?imgmax=576[/image]
Good thing that yellow alien is backed up.
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core
Aug 29, 2008, 5:01 PM
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There is only one thing wrong with this anchor...
not enough red biners!
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cracklover
Aug 29, 2008, 5:24 PM
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Alex - love the pics from Europe. Gorgeous.
Eric - sounds like a wonderful trip with Zeb.
As for anchors on trad climbs, I really have nothing to add. I think my opinion is about as equally worthless as everyone else's. Certainly more worthless than Eric's - who's been around a bit.
GO
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core
Aug 29, 2008, 5:40 PM
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burrito
Aug 29, 2008, 8:02 PM
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Yes, but please make the sling green so as to complement the other colors. I like my anchors equalized in all respects.
That's my worthless opinion.
Edited: proper jargon.
(This post was edited by burrito on Aug 29, 2008, 8:05 PM)
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wonderwoman
Aug 29, 2008, 8:05 PM
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I'm not rapping from that anchor. We need to leave more gear behind.
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burrito
Aug 29, 2008, 8:06 PM
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I have an extra cam we can leave... 
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losbill
Aug 29, 2008, 8:39 PM
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In reply to: What is it that Bill says? "I've been Swained too many times!"
Actually Tiff, my saying is, "I have been Swained before, and I will be Swained again!"
But I have moved on in my climbing life. I loaned my Swain to somebody earlier in the season and can't remember who. I was going to put out an email call to see who had it, but decided against doing so. Thus, "I will not be Swained again."
I have the Gray Dick, thx to my fav partner Amy T, and will wait for the new Williams Nears guide. I know enough about a number of climbs in the Nears to keep me in sufficient trouble while waiting for the new guide. Birdland (good job Tiff), Fat Stick and Grand Central are on the list. And now, once again inspired by Jen, I am adding Roseland. Bummed I wasn't down there to see the action in person. I just have to get the long delayed house repair project completed and get down there.
Pretty much tuned out the Gabe, Greg, Eric stuff, just glanced at it after the "dick" part. Love all you guys, but I have had enough controversy regarding local climbing ethics this summer to last me for awhile.
However, I do have three comments.
I too am a bit leery of the chain setup on Intertwine. Seems solid enough but my perception is that it is hard to evaluate the quality of rock through which the chain is threaded. When I lead Intertwine I always back up the chain to bring up my second or to set it up as a TR for them to clean. When I am last to rap down on the chain I do so very gingerly. When last down I usually downclimb it as "practice" rather than rap. We all have all individual perceptions of risk.
My second comment is that I do believe the Crow Hill "Groundskeeper" has resigned due to a move, or pending move, out of the area. The replacement groundskeeper(s) have also recently resigned. The bottom line is it is unclear to me that there is currently any competent person taking responsibility for the fixed gear/bolts at Crow Hill. Please be aware of this and evaluate and back up fixed gear there accordingly.
My third comment is based upon my observation and knowledge over the last six years, the length of time I have been frequenting Crow Hill, there isn't any local climber community group or process, no matter how informal, to approve or disapprove "initiatives" at there. The ethic that was related to me in the past by two separate parties, both of whom have climbed at Crow Hill for many years and have the wisdom that comes from experience, at two separate times, is "Don't ask, don't tell". To the best of my knowledge that is the ethic that guided the last major "alteration" at CH, the placement of the TL anchor.
Bill
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coppertone
Aug 30, 2008, 1:26 AM
Post #21135 of 22774
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core wrote: bomber anchor...more is better right? [image]http://lh5.ggpht.com/crbrett/RvCMMRovNQI/AAAAAAAAA-8/xPGJDXbgDUk/IMG_1422.JPG?imgmax=576[/image]
Is that the anchor on the second pitch of Son of Easy O? Good thing you backed up the 5 anchor points that are fixed. I also think that rope and perlon needed backing up. That quicklink that would hold you car is also shaky.
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c4c
Aug 30, 2008, 11:27 AM
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Bill, I have a swain that I don't use if you want it pm your info and I will send it to you. -Todd
wait did someone say there was cake?!?
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c4c
Aug 30, 2008, 11:39 AM
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Anybody interested in coming to the Daks next weekend for the southern rock fest?
http://www.mtnsideview.com/sadkrock.html
we've got boltz!! we've got boulders!! we've got manky trad anchors!! We may even have cake!
I would love to have you all come!
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dtracy85
Aug 30, 2008, 7:54 PM
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Hey- I just moved to Amherst and will be living here for the next 5 years or so. Anyone in the area? would love to get out on some rock any rock for that matter!
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strongmadsends
Sep 1, 2008, 2:47 PM
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Does anybody know if any lines have been sent at Crow Hill between the end crag and the fisherman wall? You know, the cave that is reminiscent of lower vader at rumney? Saw some guy TRing one of the over hung prows there and pulled the roof and it was the first time he did it and it doesnt look like anybody has done it since he cleaned off a bunch of the moss carpet on the top...Pretty impressive climbing though may be a 2 move wonder...maybe in the high 11s or low 12s....
I havent seen anything about routes in this section...thoughts?
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core
Sep 1, 2008, 11:59 PM
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Gmburns2000
Sep 2, 2008, 12:25 AM
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core wrote: adam, did you get on Intertwine? Nearly three years ago I took Alex here for our first date. I clipped the infamous chain (of late) at the top of the route and brought her up. She loved it and I didn't have the courage to kiss her at the top of the route. Ever since that day (sharing a pb&j at the base of the cliff) she has been obsessing about leading it before we get married. Well...we get married next weekend, so she decided she should own up to her promises. I am psyched to have witnessed Burrito take a big step in her climbing career by doing this: 
Nice send Alex!
Good luck and pre-congrats to you guys for next weekend.
Did you follow through with a kiss this time Cory?
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ratherbe
Sep 2, 2008, 12:35 AM
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Nice work Alex, congrats on the send. All the best for next weekend!
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jakedatc
Sep 2, 2008, 5:16 AM
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biner on biner death!
hoping the forecast clears and kate and i can hit up rumney. we shall see
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blueeyedclimber
Sep 2, 2008, 12:21 PM
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epoch wrote: core wrote: bomber anchor...more is better right? [image]http://lh5.ggpht.com/crbrett/RvCMMRovNQI/AAAAAAAAA-8/xPGJDXbgDUk/IMG_1422.JPG?imgmax=576[/image] wtf?
Got to love the Gunks! For all Gunkies out there, we should play name that anchor! Son of Easy O was my guess, too, but someone beat me to it.
Josh
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wonderwoman
Sep 2, 2008, 12:45 PM
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c4c wrote: wait did someone say there was cake?!?
Yep! Maybe core and burrito will set aside some of their wedding cake for you!
Congrats, Alex and Corey!
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robbovius
Sep 2, 2008, 12:51 PM
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A couple weeks after the fact, but few pics from my fab times rope-soloing Mt Webstah in Crawford Notch.
looking up P2 after the rap-and-clean. you can see one of my new-friends-for-the-day, Stephan, up there on the left
The Willey House from the top of the slabs
on the rap-off, waiting to rap P1, Stephan and Lisa at the base pulling their doubles.
Mt Webster, from the Willey House parking lot after the descent hike. the Central Gulley is at the top of the mnt, in the middle of the pic. The Central Gulley Slabs are down and left of the gentral gulley, below the summit/ I was at the top of the slabs, just below the tree line. (the thin-ish slabby area just under the Central Gulley is right of the Slabs.)
yes there is no-beta slabby goodness all OVER this mountain. I predict that I will spend several summers visiting and climbing all over them.
(This post was edited by robbovius on Sep 2, 2008, 12:52 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Sep 2, 2008, 1:11 PM
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core wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Did you follow through with a kiss this time Cory? I nailed it this time.
Reminds me of a brief conversation I had with Josh and Tiff this weekend. The one that kinda makes you go hmmmm...
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wonderwoman
Sep 2, 2008, 1:21 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: core wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Did you follow through with a kiss this time Cory? I nailed it this time. Reminds me of a brief conversation I had with Josh and Tiff this weekend. The one that kinda makes you go hmmmm...
Let's just suffice it to say, there's a lot of love amongst us Mass Climbers.
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