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raerae


Sep 29, 2008, 4:52 AM
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Top Rope Anchor Building
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I've been making top rope anchors with a long (80 ft I think) static rope by tying a bowline around a tree at each end of the rope, then equalizing them to my master point, which is an eight knot on a bight.

Is this safe? It doesn't seem as redundant as using doubled up webbing... but much simpler and easier to put the master point where I want it. Is what I'm doing effective?

Thanks.


coolcat83


Sep 29, 2008, 5:02 AM
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Re: [raerae] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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raerae wrote:
I've been making top rope anchors with a long (80 ft I think) static rope by tying a bowline around a tree at each end of the rope, then equalizing them to my master point, which is an eight knot on a bight.

Is this safe? It doesn't seem as redundant as using doubled up webbing... but much simpler and easier to put the master point where I want it. Is what I'm doing effective?

Thanks.


when setting up a tr with static i generally use a tension hitch (wrap the rope around the tree many times, tie an 8 in the end clip it with a locker back to the strand) for the power point i tie two 8's on a bight next to eachother for redundant power point.


Maddhatter


Sep 29, 2008, 5:08 AM
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Re: [raerae] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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I can't see how it would be less redundant. I would think the static rope would be stronger then 1" webbing. It is 11mm static line right?

Any way, I would like to hear what others think also.


raerae


Sep 29, 2008, 5:15 AM
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Re: [Maddhatter] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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It's 9mm line. Rock and Snow said that was enough... otherwise too heavy to hump around.

Do others agree with coolcat - a tension hitch with an eight tied back to the line with a beaner is a better option?

Good idea for the 2 anchors too coolcat... so then I put a biner through each? It seems like this would make it hard to equalize them...


tradrenn


Sep 29, 2008, 5:27 AM
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Re: [coolcat83] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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coolcat83 wrote:
raerae wrote:
I've been making top rope anchors with a long (80 ft I think) static rope by tying a bowline around a tree at each end of the rope, then equalizing them to my master point, which is an eight knot on a bight.

Is this safe? It doesn't seem as redundant as using doubled up webbing... but much simpler and easier to put the master point where I want it. Is what I'm doing effective?

Thanks.


when setting up a tr with static i generally use a tension hitch (wrap the rope around the tree many times, tie an 8 in the end clip it with a locker back to the strand) for the power point i tie two 8's on a bight next to eachother for redundant power point.

What if there is no tree ?


curt


Sep 29, 2008, 5:33 AM
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raerae wrote:
I've been making top rope anchors with a long (80 ft I think) static rope by tying a bowline around a tree at each end of the rope, then equalizing them to my master point, which is an eight knot on a bight.

Is this safe? It doesn't seem as redundant as using doubled up webbing... but much simpler and easier to put the master point where I want it. Is what I'm doing effective?

Thanks.

It's a fucking top-rope anchor. It's as good as the trees are.

Curt


Maddhatter


Sep 29, 2008, 5:34 AM
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raerae wrote:
It's 9mm line. Rock and Snow said that was enough... otherwise too heavy to hump around.

Do others agree with coolcat - a tension hitch with an eight tied back to the line with a beaner is a better option?

Good idea for the 2 anchors too coolcat... so then I put a biner through each? It seems like this would make it hard to equalize them...

9mm should be just fine.


raerae


Sep 29, 2008, 6:06 AM
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Re: [tradrenn] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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No tree... maybe find a good boulder and throw some doubled webbing around it, knot it, biner it, and then tie it to the static rope with an eight knot? Would that be good?


curt


Sep 29, 2008, 6:12 AM
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Re: [raerae] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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raerae wrote:
No tree... maybe find a good boulder and throw some doubled webbing around it, knot it, biner it, and then tie it to the static rope with an eight knot? Would that be good?

Well then your anchor is no longer as good as the trees are, but only as good as the "good boulder" is. Come to think of it, perhaps climbing just isn't for you? Have you considered crochet, shuffleboard or backgammon as more suitable pastimes?

Curt


raerae


Sep 29, 2008, 6:21 AM
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Re: [curt] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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What's your problem? I thought climbers were friendly people. You taught me. :-p

If there is no tree, you can't anchor off the tree. I'm trying to learn here - help, or shut up.


jimo


Sep 29, 2008, 10:12 AM
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rae, curt is obviously frustrated about something, perhaps age is catching up with him and he's just a grumpy bastard...
I sometimes use a static line anchored to a healthy tree- First end goes around the tree, tied with a bowline usually, then to my master point with a fig 8 on a bight; I clip in a locking biner, drop the rope to weight the anchor. Then I tie an additional fig 8 on a bight, clip that with the existing 8 on a bight, then add my second locking biner. I then pull back the loose end of the rope to another anchor tree or gear anchor and securely attach that, pulling tension to equalize both strands.
Hope that helps, just be aware of sharp edges and you should be fine.
JimO


superbumbly


Sep 29, 2008, 11:54 AM
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Re: [curt] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Curt

Yes you are, maybe even abrupt, possibly rude and not vey helpful.

raerae, make sure you protect the trees properly before you wrap your rope if you don't it ringbarks them, which kills them, which means you can't tie off on them any more and neither can anyone else.


coolcat83


Sep 29, 2008, 12:39 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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tradrenn wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
raerae wrote:
I've been making top rope anchors with a long (80 ft I think) static rope by tying a bowline around a tree at each end of the rope, then equalizing them to my master point, which is an eight knot on a bight.

Is this safe? It doesn't seem as redundant as using doubled up webbing... but much simpler and easier to put the master point where I want it. Is what I'm doing effective?

Thanks.


when setting up a tr with static i generally use a tension hitch (wrap the rope around the tree many times, tie an 8 in the end clip it with a locker back to the strand) for the power point i tie two 8's on a bight next to eachother for redundant power point.

What if there is no tree ?

one side fig 8 to gear, then other leg clove to adjust and a backup 8 right after that clipped in, equalize the gear on each leg independently of course before you hook up the static line. equalizing the line is not rocket science. tie the PP where you want it from the fixed leg with doubled up 8's (if you don't know what i'm talking about god help you and i'll post a picture...i'll post one anyway) let your climbing rope weight the PP (assuming you are not using it to rap and set up the climb, then use something else to weight the PP if you can, otherwise guestimate..it's a TR...) once weighted just make a clove get things equal and you are good to go.

Problems?



edited for speeling


(This post was edited by coolcat83 on Sep 29, 2008, 12:46 PM)


jmvc


Sep 29, 2008, 1:03 PM
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Re: [superbumbly] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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superbumbly wrote:
Curt
abrupt, possibly rude and not vey helpful.

Funny though..

His advice was good anyway.


coolcat83


Sep 29, 2008, 1:09 PM
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coolcat83 wrote:
tradrenn wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
raerae wrote:
I've been making top rope anchors with a long (80 ft I think) static rope by tying a bowline around a tree at each end of the rope, then equalizing them to my master point, which is an eight knot on a bight.

Is this safe? It doesn't seem as redundant as using doubled up webbing... but much simpler and easier to put the master point where I want it. Is what I'm doing effective?

Thanks.


when setting up a tr with static i generally use a tension hitch (wrap the rope around the tree many times, tie an 8 in the end clip it with a locker back to the strand) for the power point i tie two 8's on a bight next to eachother for redundant power point.

What if there is no tree ?

one side fig 8 to gear, then other leg clove to adjust and a backup 8 right after that clipped in, equalize the gear on each leg independently of course before you hook up the static line. equalizing the line is not rocket science. tie the PP where you want it from the fixed leg with doubled up 8's (if you don't know what i'm talking about god help you and i'll post a picture...i'll post one anyway) let your climbing rope weight the PP (assuming you are not using it to rap and set up the climb, then use something else to weight the PP if you can, otherwise guestimate..it's a TR...) once weighted just make a clove get things equal and you are good to go.

Problems?



edited for speeling




sungam


Sep 29, 2008, 1:16 PM
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You forgot a stopper knot on the cam.


coolcat83


Sep 29, 2008, 1:21 PM
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sungam wrote:
You forgot a stopper knot on the cam.

TongueLaugh don't worry the mattress and comforter should cushion my fall just fine if it fails.

in actual use i would have a stopper knot. also lockers or opposite opposed biners where appropriate where appropriate.


reg


Sep 29, 2008, 2:00 PM
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Re: [curt] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
raerae wrote:
No tree... maybe find a good boulder and throw some doubled webbing around it, knot it, biner it, and then tie it to the static rope with an eight knot? Would that be good?

Well then your anchor is no longer as good as the trees are, but only as good as the "good boulder" is. Come to think of it, perhaps climbing just isn't for you? Have you considered crochet, shuffleboard or backgammon as more suitable pastimes?

Curt

down boy!


zoltank


Sep 29, 2008, 2:07 PM
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Re: [coolcat83] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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I prefer to tie the two ends of my static line to my anchors (trees or boulders) with either a double bowline or a bowline on a bight, then equalize my lines and tie an overhand BFK. You can cut any single part of a overhand BFK and it won't fail. I find this way simpler, faster, and very robust. I carry a piece of 30' webbing in case I need to extend one leg of my static.

If you're not familiar with an overhand BFK, here are the steps to tie it :

1. Take a long bight and double it back on itself:


2. Tie an overhand knot in the doubled up bight:


3. Take the free loop and bring it down to the double loop and put your two locking biners through all three loops:



davidwebb1969


Sep 29, 2008, 2:14 PM
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Ok so my 2 cents worth, I always try when I do a top rope anchor using trees to use two lengths (Separate) of Tubular Tape this is for one main reason, the tape is flat and does not damage the tree. I like to keep minimum impact as the key. I also use two lengths per anchor to allow redundancy within the anchor point. One tree is one anchor point, I always have two anchor points to make an anchor system, I always allow redundancy in the system as you would on any climbing related system.

Once I have the tape in place and equalized (Same Length for both tapes on each tree) I then use a locking biner to join the tapes and place my fig 8 on the bight into the first end of the rope, once there I layout how my system will look. On the second tree I do the same with the tapes and biner, I look on the rope where I want my clove hitch to be then take 2 feet of slack and tie another fig 8 on the bight and clip that into the locking biner. I take up my rope and put my clove hitch into the biner then screw it up.I have now created by closed system, the whole system is closed with two fig 8's on the bight.
I then tie my two fig 8's on the bight in the centre of the system (culminating Point / Power Point) clip in the TWO screwgate biners (redundancy) and do them up. I connect myself into the system separately to the two lockers and then tension the system in the direction of anticipated load to ensure the system is equalized and equal tension is loaded on both anchor points and the angle in the system does not go beyond 45 - 55 degrees.

Once there I connect up the climbing rope into the two locking biners deploy the rope and climb.

Things I always try and avoid in a top rope system is One I never use a camming device as part of an anchor point, they have a tendancy to walk and if they are not observed you can have a catastrophic failure Two I only use Screwgate Biners, if I have to use clipgates they are opposite and opposed Three I always have the Basket of the biner facing down hill a biner cant screw uphill and Lastly I always have my culminating point forward of the edge sufficiently enough so I can observe the biners when climbing.

Hope it comes accross the way it is meant to.


coolcat83


Sep 29, 2008, 3:08 PM
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davidwebb1969 wrote:

I never use a camming device as part of an anchor point, they have a tendancy to walk and if they are not observed you can have a catastrophic failure Two I only use Screwgate Biners, if I have to use clipgates they are opposite and opposed Three I always have the Basket of the biner facing down hill a biner cant screw uphill and Lastly I always have my culminating point forward of the edge sufficiently enough so I can observe the biners when climbing.

great in an ideal world, but that's why you plan redundancy, sometimes a cam is what you want to back up a anchor, i've made TR anchors that had 2 cams, a tricam and 2 nuts, all equalized, all bomber if that thing fails then it was my time.


reg


Sep 29, 2008, 3:20 PM
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"Things I always try and avoid in a top rope system is One I never use a camming device as part of an anchor point, they have a tendancy to walk and if they are not observed you can have a catastrophic failure"

better safe then sorry david. keep being safe.
cams do walk but there are ways to keep them from doing that. ie: appling tension via an opposition piece or line will keep them solidly in place.


deltav


Sep 29, 2008, 3:24 PM
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I would continue to use your static line as it rolls across the rock edge whereas webbing drags and is far more prone to failure. People here will argue this, but it has been proven more than once.

OK...for the power point, the BFK is the best way to go. Forget the double figure 8's and all the other complicated set ups. Use the BFK. As far as the trees, go, use a tension wrap as coolcat described. This is the best method. Never tie the eight directly around the rope, always clip it back to itself with a biner. As far as boulders, I usually use a double bowline, as a single bowline has the ability to roll and fail. This is rare, but erring on the side of safety is never a bad thing.

Feel free to PM me with any other questions.


(This post was edited by deltav on Sep 29, 2008, 3:27 PM)


davidwebb1969


Sep 29, 2008, 3:26 PM
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Re: [coolcat83] Top Rope Anchor Building [In reply to]
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coolcat83 wrote:
davidwebb1969 wrote:

I never use a camming device as part of an anchor point, they have a tendancy to walk and if they are not observed you can have a catastrophic failure Two I only use Screwgate Biners, if I have to use clipgates they are opposite and opposed Three I always have the Basket of the biner facing down hill a biner cant screw uphill and Lastly I always have my culminating point forward of the edge sufficiently enough so I can observe the biners when climbing.

great in an ideal world, but that's why you plan redundancy, sometimes a cam is what you want to back up a anchor, i've made TR anchors that had 2 cams, a tricam and 2 nuts, all equalized, all bomber if that thing fails then it was my time.

I personally do not use cams as that is what I was taught when I started doing climbing and then further afar once I did some courses. I personally use passive protection to complete an anchor system (2 peices of Passive = 1 anchor point) but no active gear. I am not having a go at you nor would I say what you do is unsafe but saying how I do it and set it up.

Every country and every place and every person has their tried and true method.

I hope everyone continues climbing and enjoys it as we all do.
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coolcat83


Sep 29, 2008, 3:39 PM
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davidwebb1969 wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
davidwebb1969 wrote:

I never use a camming device as part of an anchor point, they have a tendancy to walk and if they are not observed you can have a catastrophic failure Two I only use Screwgate Biners, if I have to use clipgates they are opposite and opposed Three I always have the Basket of the biner facing down hill a biner cant screw uphill and Lastly I always have my culminating point forward of the edge sufficiently enough so I can observe the biners when climbing.

great in an ideal world, but that's why you plan redundancy, sometimes a cam is what you want to back up a anchor, i've made TR anchors that had 2 cams, a tricam and 2 nuts, all equalized, all bomber if that thing fails then it was my time.

I personally do not use cams as that is what I was taught when I started doing climbing and then further afar once I did some courses. I personally use passive protection to complete an anchor system (2 peices of Passive = 1 anchor point) but no active gear. I am not having a go at you nor would I say what you do is unsafe but saying how I do it and set it up.

Every country and every place and every person has their tried and true method.

I hope everyone continues climbing and enjoys it as we all do.
In reply to:

i didn't mean that to come across negatively. a good peice of passive pro give me more confidence than a cam most of the time, it's just not always possible. i suppose it also depends on where you climb.

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