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tedman
Oct 10, 2008, 9:00 PM
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So for a placement where you know what the gear is going to be, and want/need to make the placement as quickly as possible (say a hard crack at indian creek), is there any good reason not to have the rope preclipped into it? In case this is confusing, cam on its own beaner clipped into your harness, sling clipped into same beaner. other end of sling has another beaner already clipped to the rope. You get to the stance, unclip the cam from your harness, plug it in and go, its already clipped into the rope via the sling. Another potential benefit is if you manage to drop the cam, its on the rope, so it will either rocket down to your belayers crotch or get hung up at the last piece of pro. better than a 3 pitch freefall tho.
the only con I see is that it could get messy if the sling gets caught up on other gear/the wall. plus if there is too much rope drag and the sling isnt long enough, placing gear above your head is going to be an issue.
I'm sure I'm not the first one to think of this, but I just havnt ever seen it in practice and theres probly a good reason why, just cant come up with it. ideas? wisdom?
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styndall
Oct 10, 2008, 9:07 PM
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Clipping your gear to the rope would just offer more opportunities for getting things tangled, and, unless you're placing your piece at your waist or below, will make the act of placing it much harder. Slotting a cam that weighs an extra couple of pounds because of all the dangling rope would be a pain.
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sspssp
Oct 10, 2008, 9:19 PM
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If you had one piece set up like that for a really desperate clip, it might make sense. You would definitely have to clip low (but it is easier to place/clip low for desperate gear anyway).
However, I don't think I would want to do it for more than a single piece (too much chance of tangles). For most of the Creek climbs, one placement isn't going to be any more desperate than the next one (there are some exceptions).
(This post was edited by sspssp on Oct 10, 2008, 9:20 PM)
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hafilax
Oct 10, 2008, 9:34 PM
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Might work if the placement is at around waist level or higher if it's extended. Might be hard to switch from unclipping the piece from the harness to holding the trigger to place it.
Beth Rodden use duct tape for break away placements on Meltdown. That way the piece could be grabbed in the right orientation, slotted and clipped as fast as possible.
http://www.climbing.com/...n_cracks_a_meltdown/
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jakedatc
Oct 10, 2008, 11:54 PM
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a guy did pieces velcro'd to his harness or something for one route in Inertia 1 or 2.. doesn't makes much sense for normal routes though
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climbinginchico
Oct 11, 2008, 12:35 AM
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so did didier in first ascent on cobra crack
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duncanlennon
Oct 11, 2008, 12:45 AM
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Right, it would only work well if you were placing that piece right away. Imagine having to climb the whole route, reaching below the dangling biner to clip other pieces. Likewise, racking multiple pieces like this probably wouldn't work.
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thatguyat99
Oct 11, 2008, 12:45 AM
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Seems like it would make things pretty bunched up where you are tied in. If you had to pull a roof or a mantel the slings could pull across your thigh restricting movement of your leg.
Plus, as said before, it would be difficult for placements above the head.
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sungam
Oct 11, 2008, 1:16 AM
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I'd rather not be dealing with the weight of the rope/rope drag/etc. when fiddling in a nut or cam, know what I mean?
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bradley3297
Oct 11, 2008, 1:24 AM
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TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER
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sungam
Oct 11, 2008, 1:36 AM
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huh. I guess Jay was right.
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angry
Oct 11, 2008, 1:38 AM
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I'm pretty sure he meant, In the movie "First Ascent"....
BTW, where has Didier been lately?
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hafilax
Oct 11, 2008, 1:51 AM
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Someone asked that on the Gripped forum recently.
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alleyehave
Oct 11, 2008, 7:01 PM
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bradley3297 wrote: TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER
What are you a cheerleader? Ghey.
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currupt4130
Oct 14, 2008, 1:53 PM
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bradley3297 wrote: TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER
Cool, Trotter worked the whole thing TR before he sent it. Diddier was working ground up. Yea he sent it first, but really, it wasn't a pure first ascent.
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rockforlife
Oct 14, 2008, 2:41 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: bradley3297 wrote: TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER Cool, Trotter worked the whole thing TR before he sent it. Diddier was working ground up. Yea he sent it first, but really, it wasn't a pure first ascent.
Yes /\
l
l
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reg
Oct 14, 2008, 2:50 PM
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i did it once on a desperate sport clip that i knew i was going to fall on. i figured i would get one shot at the hanger so i set up the draw on the rope then reached as far as i could then lunged. made the clip and fell. hummm......wonder if i hadn't set my mind to failure, maybe i could have made the moves. don't think there's much value with gear though.
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chossmonkey
Oct 15, 2008, 12:39 AM
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It wouldn't work as well as you think.
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crazy_fingers84
Oct 15, 2008, 1:37 AM
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i heard he fathered an illegitimate child north of the border and is hiding out in a monastery in europe. . .
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bender
Oct 15, 2008, 2:00 AM
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tedman wrote: the only con I see is that it could get messy if the sling gets caught up on other gear/the wall.
first off this tactic only comes into value when you know precisely what gear your going to be placing in certain places
the other con is that most of the time your setting gear over your chests height so you will actually be pulling up rope through the running belay your preclipped gear represents
this is alot of tension under the best circumstance and will have a negative consequence on your ability to accurately slot the gear because of so much more weight on your placing hand that is usual
most of the time you will save energy placing your gear free of rope weight then clipping in
the times this isnt the case are few, and are mostly situations where your going to plug gear in at waste level off your clipping hold
only a tactic for routes worked at your bleeding limit
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sungam
Oct 15, 2008, 1:47 PM
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I can think of one time I've seen this done on an onsight.
Some chick was doing Lord Of The Flies (drooool) and saw a spike she could sling that was too low to reach (after the traverse) so she lipped a sling to the rope and put it on with her foot.
In pretty much all other applications I'd say that the added drag from the rope would suck too much.
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fresh
Oct 15, 2008, 2:46 PM
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speaking of first ascent, I think matt segal did this with a couple nuts in the FA of Iron Monkey, which is in the DVD extras. I can see it working when you've worked the placements to death. I for one don't climb anywhere near hard enough to be any real benefit.
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hyhuu
Oct 27, 2008, 11:27 PM
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Have you ever tried it? Unless gear is being placed at waist level, it's not as efficient as you think. The weight of the rope of both side of the biner and the friction make it hard to reach up.
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patto
Oct 28, 2008, 12:19 AM
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I've done this before. Use a 2 foot sling and the weight of the rope isn't a problem.
Its not a stylish way of doing things but If you know what your doing then it can make things less scary.
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coolcat83
Oct 28, 2008, 12:45 AM
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rockforlife wrote: currupt4130 wrote: bradley3297 wrote: TOO BAD DIDDIER DIDNT DO THE FIRST ASCENT> GO SONNY TROTTER Cool, Trotter worked the whole thing TR before he sent it. Diddier was working ground up. Yea he sent it first, but really, it wasn't a pure first ascent. Yes /\ l l
agreed. and i have wondered where he went after recovering in that monastery, unless he decided to stay and become a man of the cloth?
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