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Hanging belay vs. free climb
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Poll: Hanging belay vs. free climb
Hanging belay is aid climbing 2 / 12%
Hanging belay is free climbing 1 / 6%
Pancakes 14 / 82%
17 total votes
 

shockabuku


Oct 18, 2008, 8:19 PM
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Hanging belay vs. free climb
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So I read in Rock and Ice that someone didn't get credit for free climbing a route because they used a hanging belay. Is that how most people understand the use of the term?


irregularpanda


Oct 18, 2008, 8:30 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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Re: [shockabuku] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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shockabuku wrote:
So I read in Rock and Ice that someone didn't get credit for free climbing a route because they used a hanging belay. Is that how most people understand the use of the term?

pancakes. your poll is biased. I couldn't find a vote for "boll weevil".


billl7


Oct 18, 2008, 8:39 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [shockabuku] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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Interesting question.

I suppose I could pick some sustained route from hell and i) make a move or two, ii) get a piece in that I can rest on, iii) set up a hanging belay, iv) bring up my partner, and v) repeat. Was it a free climb?

On the other hand, imagine a route that has two pitches - 30 meters each - of sustained 5.10 climbing (or whatever sustained climbing). The FA party reasonably used a hanging belay at the top of the first pitch. Since then, folks have linked P1 and P2 and skipped the hanging belay. Hmmm, should the FA be taken away from the first party that "free climbed" the route?

Bill L
No FA With My Name On It
(so I'm not qualified to do much more than ask questions about the topic; edit: 'pancakes' of course)


(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 18, 2008, 8:42 PM)


altelis


Oct 18, 2008, 9:31 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Re: [billl7] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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but on the OTHER hand (i'm loosing count...)

imagine a natural splitter crack up an overhanging face with no natural breaks for 180 meters. you own a 60 meter rope, so you climb 60'ish meters, set a belay (hanging, right? no natural breaks..), repeat for 2 more pitches.

is this aid?

would the FFA be taken away from you is somebody special ordered and lugged a 180 meter rope and did it all in go, ground up?

no, thats rediculous!

it never would have crossed my mind that hanging belays could negate a free ascent



but of course i voted for pancakes....sheesh, what were you expecting?!?!?!Wink


goodman


Oct 18, 2008, 9:46 PM
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Re: [shockabuku] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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hanging belay = aid, duh.
180 m pitch, no ledges = simul climbing for ffa credit, duh.


irregularpanda


Oct 18, 2008, 9:49 PM
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Registered: Mar 13, 2007
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Re: [altelis] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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altelis wrote:
imagine a natural splitter crack up an overhanging face with no natural breaks for 180 meters. you own a 60 meter rope, so you climb 60'ish meters, set a belay (hanging, right? no natural breaks..), repeat for 2 more pitches.

I think you just described heaven. I mean, pancakes, yes.


altelis


Oct 18, 2008, 9:53 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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Smile

and if you read my response to the worst places ever thread, you'll see that that's about all i get right now- some sort of dreaming of climbing meccaPirate


billl7


Oct 18, 2008, 10:07 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2005
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Re: [goodman] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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goodman wrote:
hanging belay = aid, duh.
180 m pitch, no ledges = simul climbing for ffa credit, duh.
simul climb - good one. I'd applaud but I've got no hands left. But I think altelis could maybe slap his remaining one against his my forehead.Crazy


(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 18, 2008, 11:35 PM)


bandidopeco


Oct 18, 2008, 11:49 PM
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Registered: Mar 17, 2004
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Re: [shockabuku] Hanging belay vs. free climb [In reply to]
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If you weigh gear it's aid climbing. Just doing that makes it mostly free climbing with a few points of aid.


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