Oct 18, 2008, 8:19 PM
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Hanging belay vs. free climb
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So I read in Rock and Ice that someone didn't get credit for free climbing a route because they used a hanging belay. Is that how most people understand the use of the term?
So I read in Rock and Ice that someone didn't get credit for free climbing a route because they used a hanging belay. Is that how most people understand the use of the term?
pancakes. your poll is biased. I couldn't find a vote for "boll weevil".
I suppose I could pick some sustained route from hell and i) make a move or two, ii) get a piece in that I can rest on, iii) set up a hanging belay, iv) bring up my partner, and v) repeat. Was it a free climb?
On the other hand, imagine a route that has two pitches - 30 meters each - of sustained 5.10 climbing (or whatever sustained climbing). The FA party reasonably used a hanging belay at the top of the first pitch. Since then, folks have linked P1 and P2 and skipped the hanging belay. Hmmm, should the FA be taken away from the first party that "free climbed" the route?
Bill L No FA With My Name On It (so I'm not qualified to do much more than ask questions about the topic; edit: 'pancakes' of course)
(This post was edited by billl7 on Oct 18, 2008, 8:42 PM)
imagine a natural splitter crack up an overhanging face with no natural breaks for 180 meters. you own a 60 meter rope, so you climb 60'ish meters, set a belay (hanging, right? no natural breaks..), repeat for 2 more pitches.
is this aid?
would the FFA be taken away from you is somebody special ordered and lugged a 180 meter rope and did it all in go, ground up?
no, thats rediculous!
it never would have crossed my mind that hanging belays could negate a free ascent
but of course i voted for pancakes....sheesh, what were you expecting?!?!?!
imagine a natural splitter crack up an overhanging face with no natural breaks for 180 meters. you own a 60 meter rope, so you climb 60'ish meters, set a belay (hanging, right? no natural breaks..), repeat for 2 more pitches.
I think you just described heaven. I mean, pancakes, yes.
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