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k.l.k
Oct 22, 2008, 9:38 PM
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synrock wrote: curt wrote: If we take a poll of climbers, I bet most will say that Yosemite granite is vastly superior to your local choss. I think most climbers will say that lake tahoe area granite is better quality than yosemite granite. Stickier with better features. Good gritstone is one grade better than that.
Synrock, your local boulders look cool enough to me-- I'd go there if I were in the area. But I doubt that you'll get many Cali climbers to sign onto yr Tahoe-over-Yos deal. And you don't really believe all that stickier-always=better schtick.
One of the best features of Synrock climbing holds is that they're LESS sticky than the cheapo thane deals and I don't have to sand them down in order to run laps.
If you want to persuade us that your local boulders are better, you should tell us they feel just like Synrock holds.
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jason1
Oct 22, 2008, 10:46 PM
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save for hueco... jim is right....the amount of Rock citys in PA makes for great concentrations of cool rock... shapes from iron rock crimpers to font like slopers right next to each other.....
I had the good fortune to climb with Jim and Flea during college.... and i can say they are not prone to overstatement....
However, Rob seems to be taking this whole thing pretty personal now that he's got a guidebook to sell...
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roclimb
Oct 22, 2008, 11:18 PM
Post #128 of 150
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I've been putting tons of topos on my website for FREE. Pretty much all the areas in my slideshow will be free topos on my webpage over the next few months. Some are already up.
(This post was edited by roclimb on Oct 23, 2008, 12:17 AM)
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jason1
Oct 22, 2008, 11:50 PM
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mighty white of ya.....
but i like the combative attitude....
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synrock
Oct 23, 2008, 12:37 AM
Post #130 of 150
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Well I apologize for being a sticky rock addict. I like sticky rock because it is much nicer on the skin and tendons. Skin friction keeps you on instead of excessive squeezing. Sticky rock also lets more weight on the feet which also eases the hand burden. But what I like best about sticky rock is that moves go in surprising ways.
If you are climbing at the gunks or buttermilks you have very specific hands and feet and not a whole lot else. There are very specific ways to do the problem which means after a few burns your tendons for that move are stressed exactly the same and your fingers get ripped from holding on the same way. It really limits the amount you can climb. Sticky rock problems are far more subtle and forgiving.
Now not all sticky rock is nice on the hands - J-tree, while sticky is a bit too abrasive. You can have sticky and still have comfort which is why I like gritstone and hunters sandstone.
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originalflavor
Oct 23, 2008, 3:07 AM
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Well, I have lived in the nooga, and have traveled lots' of places. I do feel that PA has some worthy stone. The diabase is cool. The sandstone (gritstone) is rad too. PA seems to have tons and tons of small areas. although after further investigating sometimes turn out to be pretty big places. I live here again, and manage to be more than psyched. As for the original question rob proposed. There is no way I could ever say what the best problem in PA is.
There are def. alot of good ones.
I want to ask. What do you think the hardest problem in PA is?
gullich roof?
Rob, what's the hardest problem in your book?
Jim, what do you feel is the hardest problem out there?
I hope I don't end up regretting getting in the middle of this!
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joeforte
Oct 23, 2008, 3:55 AM
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Morgan Highway roof crack could be one of the hardest... though I don't know if it has been sent clean yet... Rob?
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roclimb
Oct 23, 2008, 4:23 AM
Post #133 of 150
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Smiley Face at Gretna
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synrock
Oct 23, 2008, 7:59 AM
Post #134 of 150
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Well the hardest project is probably the mordor roof. It's doable and definetly a step up from the gullich roof.
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jason1
Oct 23, 2008, 2:55 PM
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there are several projects that still stand... like the right exit to the gullich roof.... and the line between sandcastles and blood Orchid..... these will be stellar hard lines when they go....
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fleamodee
Oct 23, 2008, 5:46 PM
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In reply to: like the right exit to the gullich roof.... and the line between sandcastles and blood Orchid..... these will be stellar hard lines when they go....
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originalflavor
Oct 26, 2008, 11:56 PM
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everyone just mentioned projects.
anyone gonna give a guess at an established problem.
my guesses, and i'm sure there are some i don't know about.
but I'm gonna say Divide before Nothingness at Whiskey
and Driven at Gretna
both pretty sick.
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joeforte
Oct 27, 2008, 2:42 AM
Post #138 of 150
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Rob, has the Morgan roof crack gone? Was it bouldered or lead on gear? and how hard is/was it? I recall people saying it was 5.14ish (Big ISH!)
Originalflavor... how hard are Divide Before Nothingness and Driven?
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Betahappy
Oct 27, 2008, 3:05 AM
Post #139 of 150
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chain reaction 5.12c at smith rock
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joeforte
Oct 27, 2008, 3:11 AM
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What a helpful and relevant first post betahappy! I'm sure you'll fit in just fine around here...
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originalflavor
Oct 27, 2008, 3:33 PM
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I think they could both be V12's
at least that's what the first ascentionist had suggested.
It could very well be on the mark.
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Betahappy
Oct 27, 2008, 4:01 PM
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thanks...
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coldbeverages
Nov 11, 2008, 4:40 AM
Post #143 of 150
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Hey, new to the forum
been climbing a few time at a local gym
i like bouldering a lot tho
and i want to try outdoor bouldering
realize its pretty stupid to ask this after this thread has turned to other topics
but how does one get to these great pa loc. your talking about?
is there a location list on google maps i could check out?
places in southern pa or around delaware would be best
but anything within reasonable driving distance from wilmington
would be cool.
advice and amussing flames equally appreciated
thanks in advance.
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porchy
Nov 11, 2008, 9:32 AM
Post #145 of 150
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SWPA picks. not sure of any names.
@ Pike Run
@ Breakneck Rocks
@ Ohiopyle (right by the falls)
can't say
ganked from the 7 mins of PA gritstone vid.
a classic pocket problem.
there's also a 45 degree wall @ Jumonville Rocks that hosts some good problems.
(This post was edited by porchy on Nov 11, 2008, 9:39 AM)
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roclimb
Nov 12, 2008, 12:36 AM
Post #146 of 150
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Coldbev,
For SWPA I would check Tim Andersons website. It has a lot of info on a lot of good areas in SWPA.
State Gamelands 51 has a lot of good areas. There are boulders in and above Glade Run there. Also the adjacent creek and mountain above.
Fike Run on the WV/PA border has s bunch of bouldering. It's no where near as good as Gamelands 51 though.
Brownfeild Haollow has some bouldering.
There is bouldering in Johnathan's Hallow that is adjacent to Ohiopyle River. A valley across the river from there also has bouldering.
Quebec Run nature area has boulders but most are choss.
I recommend gamelands 51. There are several areas there and good quality rock.
~Rob
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roclimb
Nov 12, 2008, 12:42 AM
Post #147 of 150
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Coldbev,
Sorry, I should have read your post better. SEPA I would recommend Haycock or the Cabbage Patch. Good bouldering that is reasonably close to driving for you. Both areas can be found on this website in the SEPA section.
~Rob
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coldbeverages
Nov 12, 2008, 5:22 AM
Post #148 of 150
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grazie millie
checked out the routes section (shoulda done that first! damn noob!)
and biked up to alapocas today.
only did easy routes, knew i wouldn't fall
but there were others that i wanted to do
next summer i def need to buy a pad
and i will def check out those places
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roclimb
Mar 4, 2009, 1:15 AM
Post #149 of 150
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Good ole Ghostown Trail. Near Johnstown, PA
Some OK rock; hardly world class though.
~Rob
(This post was edited by roclimb on Mar 4, 2009, 5:00 PM)
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paclimber12
Mar 13, 2009, 8:41 PM
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Iron Lion at haycock is pretty awesome
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