|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Oct 6, 2008, 12:21 PM
Post #1 of 18
(2004 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
Q: Need to pick out some new shoes - Doe's anyone have any shoe recommendations for me that fit my climbing style and abilities???
I started climbing this summer and currently climb in a pair of Mad Rock Phoenix's about 1 size too big that I picked up on wholesale at a local climbing gym. They get the job done, but after catching the "climbing bug" they are pretty much destroyed AND I'm looking for a more aggressive shoe….I think.
Although the Mad Rocks are incredibly comfy, I want to be in severe pain while climbing so I can look extra cool by taking my shoes off immediately after Sending V0- at the gym.
On a serious note; I climb all types of rock from sport, bouldering, multi-pitch trad to pulling on plastic - But I spend a majority of the time on single pitch sport/TR and bouldering. I am maxing out on 5.11 (on a good day) and I have pretty wide feet.
I'm also pretty sure I want to try some Velcro this time.
I was thinking:
a) Optimus Prime (Evolve)
b) Galileo (5.10)
c) Booster (Scarpa)
Any suggestions??
|
|
|
|
|
sungam
Oct 6, 2008, 1:32 PM
Post #2 of 18
(1981 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26804
|
Try them on, they're all about the same. Get the one that fits the best. All 3 of those companies have pretty much equally sticky rubber and quality.
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Oct 6, 2008, 3:23 PM
Post #3 of 18
(1963 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
Thanks Sungam,
Any advice helps!
|
|
|
|
|
Carnage
Oct 6, 2008, 7:14 PM
Post #4 of 18
(1941 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 923
|
i have narrow feet and gallileos. they dont fit well at all, i got em when i was a noob. also, the toes have blown out of both shoes. a friend who has been climbing on gallileos toes have also been blown out even though his shoes are not as old. i dunno if this is a rubber issue or a gallileo issue, but im replaceing them with some pontas velcros.
i tried the optimus primes out but my feet were too narrow and toes were the wrong shape. havnt tried the boosters.
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 6, 2008, 7:38 PM
Post #5 of 18
(1935 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
If you have relatively wide feet like I do (my gf calls them hobbit feet) I'd recommend the Gallileos. They're relatively cheap (for 5.10s), but pretty sturdy, so they'll stand up to the kind of abuse that you (as a n00b) will put them through, but won't be insanely expensive to replace after you trash them. And they're fairly stiff, which is also good for you.
Just my $0.02
Cheers,
GO
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Oct 6, 2008, 9:51 PM
Post #6 of 18
(1910 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
Tough Act to follow - two opposing Galileo arguments....after researching shoes online, I'm starting to lean towards Evolv. Any Pontas or Optimus Prime lovers out there?
In any regard - thanks for the advice so far.....
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Oct 6, 2008, 9:51 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
cracklover
Oct 6, 2008, 10:06 PM
Post #7 of 18
(1903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
|
The guy with the narrow feet said they didn't fit him. You said you had wide feet. Otherwise I wouldn't have posted here.
GO
|
|
|
|
|
scottb
Oct 6, 2008, 11:01 PM
Post #8 of 18
(1890 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2006
Posts: 144
|
I also have wide-ish feet and love 5.10s.
Have you considered the red Moccs? Because your second pair of shoes won't last much longer than you first pair and I believe the moccs are about $30 cheaper than the Galileo.
|
|
|
|
|
asiaclimber
Oct 6, 2008, 11:49 PM
Post #9 of 18
(1877 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 21, 2007
Posts: 214
|
Def just go to your local rei or gear shop and try on as many pairs as possible. for wide feet i would suggest The Gallileo or Mocasysms. Sense you are such a new climber it is not a wise choice to go with Evolve shoes because the rubber is much thinner and you WILL blow out the toes very quikly due to bad foot work. Pro to Evolve Pontas is that it is probably the most sensitive shoe on the mark, this is becaus ethe ruber is so thin and flexible. If i were you i would go with the Mocasyms because they last for a long time they have decent sensitivety and because it is a slipper it will develop your foot strength enormously. And if you think it's not an agressive enough shoe watch Dosage volume for when sharma sends dream catcher 5.14D wearing them. I personally own Pontas, Mocasyms, Gallileo, Anasazi, venom, viper, and Katana's so i do know what i am talking about.
|
|
|
|
|
rhythm164
Oct 7, 2008, 1:08 AM
Post #10 of 18
(1857 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 28, 2005
Posts: 964
|
Carnage wrote: i dunno if this is a rubber issue or a gallileo issue,
sounds like a footwork issue. evolve ha pretty sticky rubber, but it's not as durable as 5.10s, however for the gym, they would probably be great. If you've only been climbing a short time, it might be worth spending a little less coin on shoes and work on getting a little more precise on your footwork to you don't destroy an expensive pair of shoes. However, my second pair of shoes were Sportiva Katanas (which I highly recommend as an all-around shoe by the way) and they forced my footwork to improve because I didn't want to pony up another 120 bucks for a new pair. I have a couple friends who have used the gallileo's and I've heard mixed reviews, it might benifit you to read up on some gear reviews as well, lot's of good insight there.
|
|
|
|
|
milominderbinder
Oct 7, 2008, 1:35 AM
Post #11 of 18
(1849 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 4, 2005
Posts: 84
|
I've been all about Evolve for a couple years now. They always seem to give me the best fit. Price is lower too, which has been nice.
I started with Defy's. Extremely comfortable all around shoe, with a great deal of sensitivity. I enjoy that sensitivity on routes, and feel it was good when I was learning footwork. They are flexible enough to be useful on a variety of terrain, slab to steep stuff. I am on my fourth pair now.
I've also used Chaos, Predators, and Agros. Now, I have a pair of Talons, which I rarely use. They are definitely a specialty shoe, something I use for real steep stuff outside.
Recently I picked up a pair of Lace-Up Pontas, which have been phenomenal. About as comfortable as the defy, but with more support. Superb edging. Stiff enough to be a nice upgrade over defies for less steep things, but aren't too great when it gets more overhung. Overall great shoe, very precise.
So obviously I like Evolve. But I have a pretty narrow foot with a big arch. Go with what feels best, you really do need to try on a lot of stuff.
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Oct 7, 2008, 3:47 PM
Post #12 of 18
(1794 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
Great Info guys- alot to take in...I'm heading to REI later in the week to try on some kicks - I'll let you know how it turns out.
|
|
|
|
|
k.l.k
Oct 7, 2008, 5:26 PM
Post #13 of 18
(1773 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 9, 2007
Posts: 1190
|
In reply to: I climb all types of rock from sport, bouldering, multi-pitch trad to pulling on plastic - But I spend a majority of the time on single pitch sport/TR and bouldering. I am maxing out on 5.11 (on a good day) and I have pretty wide feet. I'm also pretty sure I want to try some Velcro this time. In reply to: If you really want a single pair of shoes to serve everything from steep plastic to multi-pitch trad, then you need laces. Velcro shoes simply do not offer the variation of fit that you'd need. But hard sport/bouldering and multi-pitch trad have such very different demands that no shoe-- in a single size--is going to work very well for both. You need to size with toes flat in your trad shoe, if you plan to climb cracks. And you will need to size with toes curled in a sport shoe if you plan to push yourself on difficult footwork. The heroes and heroines you see in the mags climbing everything from V12 to Grade VI free climbs in the same shoe typically have multiple pairs of the same model in different sizes. When the routes get longer or cracky or high el, they step up a size or two. If I were going to try to climb everything in one single shoe, then I'd size for reasonable comfort in an all-purpose, lace shoe that allowed me to crank the fit tighter or looser depending on the situation.
(This post was edited by k.l.k on Oct 7, 2008, 5:27 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
steinmethod
Oct 7, 2008, 7:21 PM
Post #14 of 18
(1740 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2007
Posts: 125
|
AntinJ wrote: Q: Need to pick out some new shoes - Doe's anyone have any shoe recommendations for me that fit my climbing style and abilities??? I started climbing this summer and currently climb in a pair of Mad Rock Phoenix's about 1 size too big that I picked up on wholesale at a local climbing gym. They get the job done, but after catching the "climbing bug" they are pretty much destroyed AND I'm looking for a more aggressive shoe….I think. Although the Mad Rocks are incredibly comfy, I want to be in severe pain while climbing so I can look extra cool by taking my shoes off immediately after Sending V0- at the gym. On a serious note; I climb all types of rock from sport, bouldering, multi-pitch trad to pulling on plastic - But I spend a majority of the time on single pitch sport/TR and bouldering. I am maxing out on 5.11 (on a good day) and I have pretty wide feet. I'm also pretty sure I want to try some Velcro this time. I was thinking: a) Optimus Prime (Evolve) b) Galileo (5.10) c) Booster (Scarpa) Any suggestions??
I am currently on my 2nd pair of Galileo Five Ten shoes. They have been pretty good indoors and outdoors. They have been extremly comfterable and lived up to my expectations. Im a 5.11 climber and climb pretty hard on them.
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Oct 10, 2008, 11:51 AM
Post #15 of 18
(1664 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
Thanks for all the advice everyone! I went to REI and EMS to try on shoes this week and ended up purchasing a size 11(my athletic shoes vary from size 11.5-12) Evolv Pontas'. They feel great and I can't wait to put them to use this weekend up in Rumney. I had someone explain to me why poor footwork=fast deterioration of shoes and it makes a lot of sense. Hopefully my lack of technique wont destroy these yellow beauties too quickly. I plan on keeping my beat up, oversized Mad Rocks for long trad climbs, I might even have them re-soled. Thanks again for all the advice and suggestions - I'll keep you posted on how they work out for me.
|
|
|
|
|
dlintz
Oct 10, 2008, 12:53 PM
Post #16 of 18
(1657 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 9, 2002
Posts: 1982
|
Did you buy the velcro or lace-ups? I've been very satisfied with my lace-ups for just about every type of climbing.
d.
|
|
|
|
|
AntinJ
Oct 10, 2008, 1:09 PM
Post #17 of 18
(1648 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 4, 2008
Posts: 475
|
The Evolv's are velcro and my Mad Rocks are Lace-ups.
|
|
|
|
|
Betahappy
Oct 28, 2008, 9:29 PM
Post #18 of 18
(1388 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 26, 2008
Posts: 12
|
the katanas are pretty sweet and stiff
|
|
|
|
|
|
