|
drumcrazee12
Nov 2, 2008, 6:35 AM
Post #1 of 44
(11802 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
Hello im 20 i live in California, i want to climb halfdome. I was wondering if you guys could help me out as far as exact gear i would need to purchase. I have been climbing for about 7 years now and i just want to further my experience its time to step it up a notch.
(This post was edited by drumcrazee12 on Nov 3, 2008, 1:16 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
coolcat83
Nov 2, 2008, 6:51 AM
Post #2 of 44
(11794 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2007
Posts: 1007
|
drumcrazee12 wrote: Hello im 20 i live in California, i want to climb halfdome. I was wondering if you guys could help me out as far as exact gear i would need to purchase. I have been climbing for about 7 years now and i just want to further my experience its time to step it up a notch. i belive that depends on what you have been doing for those 7 years, and what gear you already own. and what style you want to climb it in.
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 2, 2008, 6:56 AM
Post #3 of 44
(11791 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
I have been lead climbing and doing some trad when i could. I am a strong climber. I just never had the money to buy 5 grand of equipment. I can now tho, i want to trad climb it. I dont have a TON of gear. I have 2 dynamic ropes, a bunch of oval biners, 6 locking biners, a bunch of random length webbing daisy chains etc... I dont have cams or pitons. I have some nuts and hexes ONE cam haha. What am i looking to buy?
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Nov 2, 2008, 8:06 AM
Post #4 of 44
(11766 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
drumcrazee12 wrote: I have been lead climbing and doing some trad when i could. I am a strong climber. I just never had the money to buy 5 grand of equipment. I can now tho, i want to trad climb it. I dont have a TON of gear. I have 2 dynamic ropes, a bunch of oval biners, 6 locking biners, a bunch of random length webbing daisy chains etc... I dont have cams or pitons. I have some nuts and hexes ONE cam haha. What am i looking to buy? Are you sport climber or a trad climber? Either way, your SOL till next year cause weather will be nasty on HD from now on
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 2, 2008, 10:26 AM
Post #5 of 44
(11741 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
I do alot of sport climbing. I mainly stay trad. I have nuts and hexes, i always practice trad and gear placement. If i had more cams i would be all about trad. So the weather is suppose to be really bad till next year? Even in the summer?
|
|
|
|
|
munky
Nov 2, 2008, 1:28 PM
Post #6 of 44
(11712 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2006
Posts: 358
|
I hate to say this, because I'm the last one who would discourage someone from a great adventure and my usual mentality is you'll learn as you go, but from your comments, I would suggest that you start on something a lot easier. Go climb Cathedral Peak up in Tuolomne, and then go do Fairview Dome Reg Route, and then Lucky Streaks on Fairview. If you're still gun ho and doing well, take a run up the Rostrum and don't worry about the technical difficulties just plan on topping out in a day. Then you're ready to climb Half Dome. I assume you mean the NW Face (Reg Rt.)
|
|
|
|
|
ja1484
Nov 2, 2008, 1:47 PM
Post #7 of 44
(11704 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 1935
|
People are actually taking this bait? Christ.
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Nov 2, 2008, 2:56 PM
Post #8 of 44
(11683 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
drumcrazee12 wrote: Hello im 20 i live in California, i want to climb halfdome. I was wondering if you guys could help me out as far as exact gear i would need to purchase. I have been climbing for about 7 years now and i just want to further my experience its time to step it up a notch. If you have to ask, you don't have enough experience yet. Climb climb climb. Read read read. Have you read or do you own a copy of Freedom of the Hills or Climbing Anchors by John Long? If not, buy them and read them. Cover to cover. Nice ambition though.
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 2, 2008, 5:49 PM
Post #9 of 44
(11579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
Actually yes i own Freedom Of The Hills and i have read it cover to cover many times i know all the anchors i even read the ice climbing part for kicks. No you dont get it all i need is a list, i dont want to waste money!!!!
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 2, 2008, 5:57 PM
Post #10 of 44
(11572 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
Bait?
|
|
|
|
|
Lazlo
Nov 2, 2008, 8:02 PM
Post #11 of 44
(11520 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2007
Posts: 5079
|
Lazlo wrote: If you have to ask, you don't have enough experience yet. Climb climb climb. Read read read. I should have just kept my post straight forward. Read everything you can about bigwall and aid climbing. Read Stymingersfink's posts on the subject. Read Pass the Pitons Pete's posts. climb climb climb. Read read read.
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Nov 2, 2008, 9:24 PM
Post #12 of 44
(11484 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
drumcrazee12 wrote: No you dont get it all i need is a list, i dont want to waste money!!!! If you're still asking for this, then, no, you haven't read enough stuff yet nor have you lifted a finger to do any research. John Mittendorf's big wall site? Cllimbing Big Walls? Supertopo?
|
|
|
|
|
irregularpanda
Nov 2, 2008, 10:53 PM
Post #13 of 44
(11427 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 13, 2007
Posts: 1364
|
This is actually going to be the name of my first child. After he survives, then his name will be Trap.
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 3, 2008, 12:16 AM
Post #14 of 44
(11401 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
HAHAHAHA!!! Oh man that made my day.
|
|
|
|
|
clintcummins
Nov 3, 2008, 1:04 AM
Post #15 of 44
(11375 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 1, 2002
Posts: 135
|
You already have enough gear to climb the Cables Route or Snake Dike. If you want to climb the Regular NW Face, it takes a standard lead rack, and ascenders are helpful so the follower can jumar with a pack. It's less about what gear you need; more about having a good partner and having enough experience on long multipitch climbs so that you can climb fast enough on the NW Face to get it done without trying to haul a haulbag. What you might want for a starter lead rack depends on what your partner already has, if you have a partner. Normally it would be something like a set of wired nuts to .5", and a set of cams .4-3.5", 6-8 quickdraws, 6-10 slings, wiregate biners for all these.
|
|
|
|
|
xtrmecat
Nov 3, 2008, 1:04 AM
Post #16 of 44
(11373 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 1, 2004
Posts: 548
|
Your rack should be sufficient to do Snake Dike. Might spend about $10.00 on a couple slings and borrow a couple smaller cams. This should do you for the anchors and the slings and ovals will protect the pitches as well as can be done. Adventure awaits you, go get it. Oh yea, probably want a topo too, as getting off route on this one is serious business, even more serious than the route is, and it is pretty serious itself. The topo on Supertopo has a recommended rack, but the last time I climbed it we took considerably less. Plan on a full day out if you and your partner are in incredible shape, both multi pitch climbing and hiking/exposed approach. Bob
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 3, 2008, 1:15 AM
Post #17 of 44
(11366 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
I just posted a picture of my meager rack. this should be alot more helpful to really know where i stand. i have alot of webbing 2 daisy chains one aid latter, 2 dynamic ropes shoes and a nice harness. i just dont know cam wise, i have none.
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 3, 2008, 1:19 AM
Post #18 of 44
(11360 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b338/drumcrazee12/P1010001.jpg there is a link to a picture of my rack
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Nov 3, 2008, 1:22 AM
Post #19 of 44
(11358 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2806
|
drumcrazee12 wrote: I just posted a picture of my meager rack. this should be alot more helpful to really know where i stand. i have alot of webbing 2 daisy chains one aid latter, 2 dynamic ropes shoes and a nice harness. i just dont know cam wise, i have none. Oh jeeze. Enough already. This trolling is getting boring. If you're planning on doing the NW Face regular route, just buy the Supertopo book and use the suggested rack as your shopping list.
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 3, 2008, 1:41 AM
Post #21 of 44
(11331 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
You think thats plenty? Could use more cams or what? Hey thanks for the picture help i am new to this.
|
|
|
|
|
alleyehave
Nov 3, 2008, 2:44 AM
Post #22 of 44
(11294 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2005
Posts: 461
|
Rack looks sufficient for the regular northwest face route. Although, just to be sure i'd probably buy a pink big bro or it could get thin as far as pro goes. One of the best trolls, ever.
|
|
|
|
|
pbcowboy77
Nov 3, 2008, 5:21 AM
Post #23 of 44
(11253 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2002
Posts: 574
|
If you want to keep it cheap, buy a full set of tri cams and another set of hexes. With that you should be good for regular route on half dome. Make sure you get some 6 mil cord for prusiks too.
|
|
|
|
|
drumcrazee12
Nov 3, 2008, 5:26 AM
Post #24 of 44
(11247 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 2, 2008
Posts: 13
|
Awesome, yea i have enough 6 mil cord to do any thing. I think i pretty much almost have every thing. Just a big wall harness now.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Nov 3, 2008, 5:59 AM
Post #25 of 44
(10575 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 13, 2002
Posts: 8390
|
you are a good trooler and by far better than most n00bs.
|
|
|
|
|
|