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saxfiend
Nov 6, 2008, 9:33 PM
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Thanks for the eyewitness report, ncclimber. Has anyone heard an update on the condition of the climber who fell? I hope he's recovering.
Regarding parties of five on a route on one rope -- I can't even imagine how you'd do that. Or why anyone would want to. What a nightmare.
JL
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troutboy
Nov 6, 2008, 9:41 PM
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ncclimber wrote: Best guess 30 foot fall on his head with no helmet. The high piece of gear held but all but one of the lower pieces zipped tumbled him another 40 feet.
I do not understand this. If his top piece held, why would he tumble 40 feet ? I can see a couple feet from the extra slack in the rope once the bottom pieces zipper, maybe. But 40 feet ?
I can also see several reasons why he might tumble another 40 feet, but not because the bottom pieces zippered. Am I missing something ?
TS
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ncclimber
Nov 7, 2008, 3:13 AM
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The reason for the extra distance once the pieces zippered was the fact that the pieces were not in a straight line. please understand that the distances are just best guess. and 150 feet of rope where out accounting for rope stretch.
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jalmers
Nov 8, 2008, 1:22 AM
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Hello all,
I am the one that fell at Table Rock on Sunday. Though it is very difficult for me to type at the present moment, I felt that I should let everyone know my status.
I was just discharged from the hospital today. The extent of my injuries are as follows:
1.) Fractured skull
2.) Small blood clot between my skull and my brain
3.) Lacerations and abrasions all over my head
4.) Horrible muscular trauma that can only be compared to full-body whiplash
5.) Separated collar bones and shoulders
I must say that I am truly fortunate to have made it out of this one with only the damage I received. The doctors expect me to make a full recovery, another thing I am extremely grateful for.
As far as what happened, I am not really sure how far I fell. My guess is around 60 feet but I was rendered unconscious somewhere during the fall. We were working on what I believe was the 5.8 variation of The Daddy. I climbed a ways a placed a piece of passive, ultimately, the one that caught me. I climbed a bit further and placed another, and eventually a third. Shortly after placing the third, I made a reach and either missed or my foot slipped and down I came. I believe the last two pieces I placed zippered and and I ping-ponged off the wall. Like I said, I was KO'ed somewhere during the fall and don't remember anything after the initial slip.
I would like to thank EVERYONE who played a part in getting me out of there. You all are heroes in my book and things could have gotten so much worse. My wife thanks you, my 2.5 year old daughter thanks you, and my unborn daughter thanks you.
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saxfiend
Nov 8, 2008, 1:33 AM
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It's good to hear that you're alive and serviceable enough to get on rc.wanker to tell your story! I'm glad you weren't hurt even worse. Keep us updated on your recovery when you're feeling up to it.
JL
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chezdillon
Nov 8, 2008, 1:48 AM
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Glad to hear you are recovering. It is amazing to hear that you are expected to make a full recovery. I hope you heal quickly.
- Jeff
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knieveltech
Nov 8, 2008, 1:51 AM
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Thanks for taking the time to post. I hope you mend quickly.
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gothcopter
Nov 8, 2008, 2:48 AM
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jalmers wrote: I was just discharged from the hospital today. The extent of my injuries are as follows: 1.) Fractured skull 2.) Small blood clot between my skull and my brain 3.) Lacerations and abrasions all over my head 4.) Horrible muscular trauma that can only be compared to full-body whiplash 5.) Separated collar bones and shoulders
Might want to add brain damage to the list -- signing up on rockclimbing.com is a sure symptom! Glad to hear you're alright(ish). Godspeed on the recovery.
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haley913
Nov 8, 2008, 3:40 AM
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Jay...glad to hear you are out of the hospital and beginning to heal. I work for Outward Bound and we were a part of your rescue. I ended up with your rack, shoes, boots, and your wedding ring. A guy from Burke County EMS came by our basecamp yesterday and picked it up. I wanted to make sure that you got all that stuff back...if not i have a phone number for you. i am real glad to hear your alright.
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jalmers
Nov 8, 2008, 3:05 PM
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Thanks so much! I have to say that this is by far, the most pain I have ever experienced. As far as my rack is concerned, a gentleman did bring me a bag of stuff but it was missing a couple of items. My boots (brown leather Timberlands) and my climbing shoes (neon green Evolvs). I got my wedding ring, gear, and partner's climbing shoes.
Again, thanks to everyone for the help and well-wishes.
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LineoFire
Nov 8, 2008, 8:35 PM
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my thoughts have been with you over the last few days and am exceedingly happy to hear that youre on the up and ups. god speed towards your recovery and keep your head up.
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knoxes
Nov 9, 2008, 3:22 AM
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LineoFire wrote: my thoughts have been with you over the last few days and am exceedingly happy to hear that youre on the up and ups. god speed towards your recovery and keep your head up.
Yup - lots of random anonymous climbers out here have their thoughts with you. Extremely grateful those kids still have a dad. Best wishes on your recovery.
And a very big thanks to the rescue group.
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ncclimber
Nov 9, 2008, 10:17 PM
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Jay, you've been on our hearts and minds alot. Great to hear that with time you will heal.
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tmullenix
Nov 10, 2008, 3:52 PM
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I wish to post information regarding this climbing rescue on the Daddy. As always this event has generated a significant amount of confusion and partial truths. I hope that this post will clarify some things and more importantly get climbers thinking about some important points to remember after an accident. I responded as a member of the Mountain Wilderness Team of McDowell County Emergency Medical Services. My team was called by Burke County who commanded the incident. I am also an AMGA certified instructor with Fox Mountain Guides.
Because I was at this scene in an official capacity I can not and will not comment on anything other than the facts of what was done while I was on scene. Please do not ask me to delve into anything connected to why the climber fell or what his condition was.
What I can clarify is how the rescue was conducted for the purposes of making the climbing community more knowledgable about official rescue operations.
Firstly: Information coming into the 911 center by callers was confusing and pointed toward Table Rock and the Mountains to Sea trail. Anyone calling 911 after an accident should be very specific with location of the victim. Dont assume that rescuers will not know climbing routes. The person taking the 911 call will relay your information even if they dont know the area of the climber.
Burke county command utilized recreational climbers who knew the area and this added to the efficiency of the operation. Dont expect this to happen at every scene however. The foremost concept on the incident commanders mind is maintaining control of all persons in the area and preventing further accidents. As we all know attempts to "control" recreational climbers is about at easy as herding cats. It is quite possible that future incidents may result in the quick removal of all non-offical persons from the scene. Please understand the pressure put on rescue commanders to maintain safety. The interaction between climbers on the scene and the offical rescue personell was effective and without conflict from my view. This operation occured without further injury to the best of my knowledge.
Comments were made regarding how slow the operation was. I think that the rescue happened almost as quickly as can be expected given the conditions. Once the decision is made that the injured is unable to assist in any form the scope increases, the size of the equipment increases and the speed decreases. The patient had Paramedic level care quickly in order to monitor and maintain the patient condition. The lesson to be remembered is that if you are unable to self rescue it will be a very long and tedious process that will focus on safety first, second and third. The rescue will then be made a priority. Hopefully every climber is attempting to achieve the highest level of medical and rescue training they can manage.
The rescue itself from my view of participation started after the Paramedic was with the patient. There were four people on the largest ledge on the Daddy. This ledge is on the end of pitch 3. A master point anchor was extended to the edge. A basket was lowered to the ledge. The lowering of the basket was challenging due to the angle of the cliff. The basket wanted to stop frequently. The hazard here is that if the basket stops on a small ledge and slack is continued to be fed the basket will then dislodge and fall free to the persons below. In retrospect I wish I had attached a light source to the basket as I lost visual of it after about 30 feet. The patient was packaged,the Paramedic attached to the basket, the partner secured to a separate haul line and backup belay lines secured. Communication between bottom and top was by radio which causes a delay. The greatest challenge of the haul was getting the basket over the lip and onto the cliff top without flipping the basket. After the patient was moved to a safe area away from the edge the last climber was belayed from the ledge. A national guard helicopter was on stand by and hovered above the top of the buttress. A cable was lowered and the patient was hauled. The National Guard helicopter brought the patient to a landing zone and transferred care to Med Center Air helicopter staff who flew him to hospital care.
I hope that this post will help the climbing world understand more about what happens after a climbing accident becomes a rescue commanded by officals of an Emergency System. I think that we as a climbing community do a great job of keeping ourselves safe and handling our own problems. Occasionally however there will be an incident that requires a 911 call. In order to help determine the distinction between self rescue and a 911 call I encourage everyone that enters the wilderness to obtain medical and rescue training from a certified and experienced source.
Todd Mullenix
McDowell County EMS
tmullenix@mcdowellems.com
Fox Mountain Guides
todd@foxmountainguides.com
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onceahardman
Nov 10, 2008, 11:06 PM
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In reply to: Five(!!?!?!??!!!thefuck?) people in one clump with one rope on the Daddy? For. Fuck's. Sake.
The "one rope" is really the goatfuck here.
Years ago, I led a party of five up Pete's Farewell (3 pitch 5.7) on Pitchoff Chimney cliff in the Adirondacks. It was the day after a buddy got married in Vermont, and a bunch of us who traveled to the wedding got up early and went for it. BUT-we used four ropes, and were all experienced, and I don't think we ever had 3 people on the same belay ledge. It went off without a hitch, and we finished the route in about 2 hours...15 man-pitches. Quick and efficient, inchworm-style.
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jamatt
Nov 11, 2008, 1:43 AM
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hey j.
best wishes to you and your family. i took a 40 footer 10 months ago at shortoff mtn. in the gorge and broke myself up pretty good too. i didn't get a 'copter ride though, instead we self rescued and hiked out. it took almost five hours to get to the truck and i can relate to the "most pain ever" feeling.
i've been out climbing four times this fall. i'm still a little sketchy but every day out is progress.
anyway, i'm in nc also, asheville area, let me know if you need anything--really. a whole bunch of people helped me out and and i feel like i need to pay it forward. you can PM me here or catch me at holleratjohn@gmail.com
john
(This post was edited by jamatt on Nov 11, 2008, 1:44 AM)
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socalclimber
Nov 11, 2008, 3:10 AM
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jamatt wrote: hey j. best wishes to you and your family. i took a 40 footer 10 months ago at shortoff mtn. in the gorge and broke myself up pretty good too. i didn't get a 'copter ride though, instead we self rescued and hiked out. it took almost five hours to get to the truck and i can relate to the "most pain ever" feeling. i've been out climbing four times this fall. i'm still a little sketchy but every day out is progress. anyway, i'm in nc also, asheville area, let me know if you need anything-- really. a whole bunch of people helped me out and and i feel like i need to pay it forward. you can PM me here or catch me at holleratjohn@gmail.com john
Good for you!
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medic67
Nov 11, 2008, 2:18 PM
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I am replying to the fall at Table Rock. I was the Paramedic that repelled down to him. I would just like to say that the climbers that was on the rock and in the area did a great job with assisting with the rescue. The total call time was approx. 14 hours. There was one climber that stayed on the edge and helped for the entire time. My hat goes off to him. This was a very difficult place due to the travel time getting there and the amount of equipment needed to raise the subject off the ledge. You guys were great and provided much needed help and information. The climber that fell should be okay. Can't give details about his condtion but lets just say he was very lucky. A helment would have helped him. You climbers be careful and may God look over you. You have my respect...........Joe
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j_ung
Nov 11, 2008, 6:20 PM
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I detached and recycled a bunch of off-topic arguing and whining. It's I&A, folks. Keep it on topic. Insult each other via PM. 
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ncclimber
Nov 12, 2008, 1:47 AM
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Todd you where awesome out their you represented fox mountain guides with the highest professionalism my hat goes off to you.
THIS WAS A BIG DEAL. Getting out to The Daddy on the rim trail with rescuers carrying heavy bags in the dark is no joke.
The rescuers did the best they could given the area. Things moved smooth and as fast as they could giving the area.
I had tears in my eyes seeing that helo and thinking of all the people out their risking their necks to save one of us climbers. Even though they had no understanding why we do what we do.
God bless everyone who risks their lives to bail out us climbers when we screw up.
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medic67
Nov 12, 2008, 3:16 AM
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You guys did alot to help out on the fall at Table Rock. I am the Paramedic that repelled down to him. That dynamic rope is different, anyway you guys were a great help. The fellowship was obvious there. That rim trail was something else....a danger waiting to happen. The helo was a National Guard Blackhawk from Salisbury. Again thank everyone that was there for there help. Even taking me to the climber was a job. Please be careful and wear helmets
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jalmers
Nov 12, 2008, 6:21 PM
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Joe, I owe you a pack of smokes. You brought the morphine, and for that I am eternally grateful.
For the rest of you, a quick status update. I am up and walking...slowly and with a limp, but walking nonetheless. My black eye is almost gone, the headaches are lessening in both severity and recurrence, and my shoulders are getting stronger. I don't know if it is my personality, remnants of the Marine Corps, or all the prayers and well-wishes I have received but I am recovering faster than I thought I would have.
Thanks again, and be safe out there.
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saxfiend
Nov 12, 2008, 6:47 PM
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jalmers wrote: I am up and walking...slowly and with a limp, but walking nonetheless. My black eye is almost gone, the headaches are lessening in both severity and recurrence, and my shoulders are getting stronger.
So -- you up for the Mummy next weekend? Heh heh!
JL
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jalmers
Nov 12, 2008, 7:06 PM
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saxfiend wrote: So -- you up for the Mummy next weekend? Heh heh!
Uhhhhhh...no. :)
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