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bozher
Nov 14, 2008, 7:02 PM
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I usually carry a 20' peice of webbing and some rings on climbs I suspect the anchors on. I have not had the opportunity to have to tie a new anchor yet. I was wondering what the best way it to tie an anchor (probably around a tree or something) with a single peice of webbing? What are the best knots to use?
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climbingaggie03
Nov 14, 2008, 7:09 PM
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probably a sheep shank
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gandolf
Nov 14, 2008, 7:22 PM
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A water knot, just make sure the ends are about 4" beyond the knot
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flint
Nov 14, 2008, 7:30 PM
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gandolf wrote: A water knot, just make sure the ends are about 4" beyond the knot
second this...
j-
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jungle_george
Nov 14, 2008, 7:38 PM
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Water Knot with plenty o' tail...
But If your tree is further than 10' from the suspect anchor, you can tie an overhand in both ends of the webbing, use a "no-knot" around the tree, and back-up the anchor with the other end...that might give you more distance.
Probably better for the tree that way, anyways.
If you're just thinking about backing up old tat rap anchors around a tree, 20' is overkill. 5' will do you fine in 99.8756% of all cases.
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acorneau
Nov 14, 2008, 7:40 PM
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bozher wrote: I was wondering what the best way it to tie an anchor (probably around a tree or something) with a single peice of webbing? What are the best knots to use?
Put the two rap rings on the webbing and then tie the webbing into a sling using a water knot with 3" or 4" tails.
Separate the two rap rings to opposite ends of the sling, pass one end/ring around the tree/boulder and join back up to the other end/ring.
Tie an overhand in the combined webbing to give you two independent loops around the tree and two loops with rings on the end.
Rap away!
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hafilax
Nov 14, 2008, 7:50 PM
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I prefer the double fisherman's knot. Easier to untie yet less prone to working itself loose like water knots have been known to do.
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shoo
Nov 14, 2008, 8:13 PM
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I prefer the double take-a-class-from-a-qualified-instructor-before-you-kill-yourself-and-/-or-others knot. Works well for both webbing and cord.
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shimanilami
Nov 14, 2008, 8:18 PM
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If I were you, I'd carry at least 200'. And 3 steel rings. And perhaps a couple of screamers. And a knife. And more if you're trad climbing.
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adatesman
Nov 14, 2008, 8:33 PM
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climbingaggie03
Nov 14, 2008, 11:03 PM
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adatesman wrote: climbingaggie03 wrote: probably a sheep shank Ignore this.
ah, cmon, i'm trying to get more, "guess which knot I took a crappy picture of" threads although I do like the guy who said put a double fishermans in it, that's funny.
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billl7
Nov 14, 2008, 11:33 PM
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hafilax wrote: I prefer the double fisherman's knot. Easier to untie yet less prone to working itself loose like water knots have been known to do.
Double fishermans ...
... less prone to work itself loose - yes.
... easier to untie - not necessarily.
The trick to undoing a rock-hard water knot in webbing is to place it on a flat hard surface (e.g., slab), push down on it with the palm of your hand while rolling it back and forth. Loosens it up enough to unthread easily. Funny, i read about this on RC.com and have used it at least a dozen times since.
Still, the few home-made slings I have are tied with triple fishermans.
However, for rap slings I use the water knot since it is easy to inspect by folks who did not tie it. Just pull each individual strand hard until the knot is like a rock.
How do you tell if a fishermans has been tied correctly in webbing? (edit: other than by having carefully tied it yourself)
Bill L
(This post was edited by billl7 on Nov 14, 2008, 11:36 PM)
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hafilax
Nov 14, 2008, 11:36 PM
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The absence of blood on the ground?
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hafilax
Nov 14, 2008, 11:50 PM
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If I don't trust an existing knot I'll retie it. If I can't easily get it undone it's done its job and should be OK. If I'm still sketched I'll back it up for the first person rappelling and remove it for the last. As a last resort I always carry some cord with me so that I can add to the tat pile.
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billl7
Nov 14, 2008, 11:58 PM
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hafilax wrote: If I'm still sketched I'll back it up for the first person rappelling and remove it for the last.
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areyoumydude
Nov 15, 2008, 2:54 AM
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hafilax wrote: I prefer the double fisherman's knot. Easier to untie yet less prone to working itself loose like water knots have been known to do.
Water knots work way better with webbing than a double fisherman knot.
"Why?" you ask.
Because it makes a much cleaner knot.
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hafilax
Nov 15, 2008, 3:12 AM
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This is for a rap anchor. Who cares if it's a clean knot?!
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Lazlo
Nov 15, 2008, 3:14 AM
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hafilax wrote: This is for a rap anchor. Who cares if it's a clean knot?!
me.
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rasoy
Nov 15, 2008, 4:37 AM
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What are the best knots to use?
Knots that do not slip apart .....
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areyoumydude
Nov 15, 2008, 5:39 AM
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hafilax wrote: This is for a rap anchor. Who cares if it's a clean knot?!
Obviously not you, but most climbers do. You could tie a EDK and that would work too, but why. Plus a waterknot is easier to untie.
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bozher
Nov 15, 2008, 11:14 PM
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Allen, this is axactly the kind of reply I was looking for. My real question ,even know I didn't spell it out so good, is how can I tie an rap anchor that is 2 seperate protecton points with one piece of webbing. Thanks for the idea. It sounds simple, quick, and safe.
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bozher
Nov 15, 2008, 11:18 PM
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shoo, I've probably been climbing since you were sucking on your moms tits. I've just never had to set a new rap anchor (on a heavily traveled climb). I could do it, but I don't want to leave a big complicated mess for others. All I'm looking for are a few hints, not another rc.com dumb fuck.
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bozher
Nov 15, 2008, 11:24 PM
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jungle_george wrote: Water Knot with plenty o' tail... But If your tree is further than 10' from the suspect anchor, you can tie an overhand in both ends of the webbing, use a "no-knot" around the tree, and back-up the anchor with the other end...that might give you more distance. Probably better for the tree that way, anyways. If you're just thinking about backing up old tat rap anchors around a tree, 20' is overkill. 5' will do you fine in 99.8756% of all cases.
I'd rather have the 20' so I can make a new one. If an achor is total crap and I have what I need to set a new, safe anchor, I'd prefer to do so. I have been to a few that people have backed up an unacceptabel anchor with new gear. It is hard to distinguish which rings to tie into and hard to check the over all quality of the anchor.
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