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zchandran
Dec 18, 2008, 10:13 PM
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I've been climbing in the gym for a few months and am still very much at the noob level (climbing 5.7 and some 5.8)
I'll be going to Yosemite for the first time in June with two friends to hike up Half Dome. They're not climbers. I would like find a climbing partner and try something easy. Is there something in the Half Dome area that is good for rank beginners?
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altelis
Dec 18, 2008, 10:30 PM
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Omni
Dec 19, 2008, 1:39 AM
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Please tell me that picture is photoshopped..
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altelis
Dec 19, 2008, 1:41 AM
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please tell me you know more about one of our national treasures and a place so important in the history of climbing in this country!!!
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bhickey
Dec 19, 2008, 6:36 AM
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Maybe we can get Ken to chop this.
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panacea82
Dec 19, 2008, 7:01 AM
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Ill be in Yosemite doing Interp work and would be happy to take you climbing one day if you buy me a 6 pack after
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Sarah_Sunshine
Dec 19, 2008, 7:17 AM
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This is a good guide:
http://www.supertopo.com/packs/yofreeclimbs.html
There is a mountaineering shop in Yosemite that should have this book and others if you don't want to get it before you leave.
Stay in Camp 4, the climbers' camp. Post a note that you're looking for a partner or partners and will buy beer/food.
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jmvc
Dec 19, 2008, 12:46 PM
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Bloody hell. I suppose it moves at a snail's pace.
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epoch
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Dec 19, 2008, 12:53 PM
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dingus wrote: Omni wrote: Please tell me that picture is photoshopped.. The picture is not shopped. It is the most climbed rock route in the world, those I bet there are contenders elsewhere. DMT
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PNUT
Dec 19, 2008, 3:17 PM
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Learn to climb trad: get good at placing your own gear. You wont find anything you are familiar with in the gym. Getting on a 5.7 or 5.8 in Yosemite will be quite an eye-opener if you are just used to clipping bolts. If you search around, you may be able to find a few places to set up some decent Top Ropes... Also, Half Dome area will be crazy hot and crowded in June...
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scotchie
Dec 19, 2008, 3:23 PM
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zchandran wrote: I've been climbing in the gym for a few months and am still very much at the noob level (climbing 5.7 and some 5.8) I'll be going to Yosemite for the first time in June with two friends to hike up Half Dome. They're not climbers. I would like find a climbing partner and try something easy. Is there something in the Half Dome area that is good for rank beginners?
Hire a guide. After climbing easy stuff in Yosemite for a week this past summer, my partner and I ended up sharing a table with a couple of hikers who had just got done with Half Dome. They asked what route we liked the most, and we said After 6, to which one of them replied "Oh, I just climbed that yesterday". I don't think she had ever tied-in in her life (if she did, it was in a rock gym once or twice - can't remember for sure). Not only did the guide get her up the route without her having to know gear placement, lead climbing, or anchors, but he found her a great route to boot!
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Gmburns2000
Dec 19, 2008, 4:17 PM
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epoch wrote: dingus wrote: Omni wrote: Please tell me that picture is photoshopped.. The picture is not shopped. It is the most climbed rock route in the world, those I bet there are contenders elsewhere. DMT This place in china.
You know you have a reputation when someone clicks a link without thinking and says, "oh shit, what did I just do?," and then breathes a sigh of relief as nothing bad happens, despite being under the assumption that his defenses have been lowered just enough to get caught in one of Epoch's traps someday soon.
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ckirkwood9
Dec 19, 2008, 4:39 PM
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i was there after about a year of gym climbing... was climbing pretty consistently in the gym on 10s and 11s, outdoors on face climbs up to about 5.9, 9+ (rumney, red river, gunks) had led a few 10- and 10s at new river gorge.
I had NEVER climbed crack. the guy at the gear store in yosemite valley suggested i hit up Manure Pile BUttress. "After 6" (a 5.6/5.7) was my entry into the wonderful world of yosemite crack climbing.
holy crap... crack climbing spanked me hard. It was really REALLY different than face climbing. while i was totally confident/comfortable on faces with dime-edge crimpers... i was a total newbie mess with hand and foot jams.
My point?!? Go to camp 4... ask around and find someone who's more experienced who wouldn't mind a fresh crack climber.
There were plenty of random climbers who were dirt poor (read: no rack) who were more than happy to join me on my pursuit of a first yosemite lead since i had a full rack.
SO go, talk to people, enjoy the beauty of Yosemite... oh and if you DO go to camp 4... bring a bottle of wiskey along with your rack... you'll make FAST friends. :)
Cheers
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scottek67
Dec 19, 2008, 4:43 PM
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national treasure??? looks more like an antpile!
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yokese
Dec 19, 2008, 7:18 PM
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zchandran wrote: I've been climbing in the gym for a few months and am still very much at the noob level (climbing 5.7 and some 5.8)
^^^^^^^^
I'd like to remind every respondent to read again the very first paragraph of the OP post, before suggesting a particular route or finding an unknown partner at camp 4.
Based on that paragraph, I assume, perhaps wrongly, that he's climbing 5.7 and some 5.8 in the gym. I assume, perhaps wrongly, that he has no much (if any) experience in crack climbing, pro placement or multipitch climbs.
In my opinion, the best advice so far is Scotchie's: hire a guide.
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knieveltech
Dec 19, 2008, 7:39 PM
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yokese wrote: zchandran wrote: I've been climbing in the gym for a few months and am still very much at the noob level (climbing 5.7 and some 5.8) ^^^^^^^^ I'd like to remind every respondent to read again the very first paragraph of the OP post, before suggesting a particular route or finding an unknown partner at camp 4. Based on that paragraph, I assume, perhaps wrongly, that he's climbing 5.7 and some 5.8 in the gym. I assume, perhaps wrongly, that he has no much (if any) experience in crack climbing, pro placement or multipitch climbs. In my opinion, the best advice so far is Scotchie's: hire a guide.
+1
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rock_ranger
Dec 19, 2008, 7:51 PM
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Snake Dike
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jt512
Dec 19, 2008, 8:11 PM
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zchandran wrote: I've been climbing in the gym for a few months and am still very much at the noob level (climbing 5.7 and some 5.8) I'll be going to Yosemite for the first time in June with two friends to hike up Half Dome. They're not climbers. I would like find a climbing partner and try something easy. Is there something in the Half Dome area that is good for rank beginners?
Definitely hire a guide. There are some classic entry-level routes in Yosemite, but all require solid base of trad climbing skills, which you don't have yet.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 19, 2008, 8:12 PM)
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sungam
Dec 19, 2008, 8:56 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: epoch wrote: dingus wrote: Omni wrote: Please tell me that picture is photoshopped.. The picture is not shopped. It is the most climbed rock route in the world, those I bet there are contenders elsewhere. DMT This place in china. You know you have a reputation when someone clicks a link without thinking and says, "oh shit, what did I just do?," and then breathes a sigh of relief as nothing bad happens, despite being under the assumption that his defenses have been lowered just enough to get caught in one of Epoch's traps someday soon.
Got away with it "this time".
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jimo
Dec 19, 2008, 9:58 PM
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Hire a guide! There are guides-a-plenty. Broke? Save up for it, contact the Mountain Shop and see what the rates are, you'll be glad you did!
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dingus
Dec 19, 2008, 10:24 PM
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sungam wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: epoch wrote: dingus wrote: Omni wrote: Please tell me that picture is photoshopped.. The picture is not shopped. It is the most climbed rock route in the world, those I bet there are contenders elsewhere. DMT I'd sooner be sitting in the Atlanta airport, after a morning fleeing a noreaster in Boston... than click in an epic link. Not gonna happen. DMT This place in china. You know you have a reputation when someone clicks a link without thinking and says, "oh shit, what did I just do?," and then breathes a sigh of relief as nothing bad happens, despite being under the assumption that his defenses have been lowered just enough to get caught in one of Epoch's traps someday soon. *phew* I can't believe I lowered my defenses AGAIN. Got away with it "this time". |
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shimanilami
Dec 19, 2008, 11:32 PM
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panacea82 wrote: Ill be in Yosemite doing Interp work and would be happy to take you climbing one day if you buy me a 6 pack after
Hell. For a sixer, will you rope gun Bachar-Yerian for me? I'll even throw in a few bowls.
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shimanilami
Dec 20, 2008, 12:30 AM
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Can you climb the flakes the the right and left of the cables? I never considered it before, but it actually looks like fun.
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panacea82
Dec 20, 2008, 3:45 AM
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Hell yea i would love to rope gun for anyone trying that amazing climb.
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