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angry
Dec 21, 2008, 6:15 PM
Post #26 of 53
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Lazlo wrote: angry wrote: justroberto wrote: Aid climbing would be something more brutal, maybe slaughtering a cow and immediately eating it right off the bone. No, aid climbing is more like being fed puree steak in a nursing home. The nice thing about it that you're so old and feeble that it still seems epic. ... Sorry man, that's progress. Aid climbing is going the way of ham radios and propeller planes. It'll never fully disappear but it is obsolete.
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justroberto
Dec 21, 2008, 6:47 PM
Post #27 of 53
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angry wrote: justroberto wrote: Aid climbing would be something more brutal, maybe slaughtering a cow and immediately eating it right off the bone. No, aid climbing is more like being fed puree steak in a nursing home. The nice thing about it that you're so old and feeble that it still seems epic.
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tradrenn
Dec 22, 2008, 2:30 AM
Post #28 of 53
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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Maddhatter wrote: It's pretty simple, To each there own. Not every one has trad gear also. To a lot of the kids out there today clipping bolts IS rock climbing. The real truth is getting clippy is only one small part of being a well rounded climber. As long as I like the look of the line I couldn't care less how hard it is. As long as it's within what I can climb I climb it. I also love to solo long easy climbs. I`m with you 100% on that one.
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villageidiot
Dec 22, 2008, 3:07 AM
Post #29 of 53
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Registered: May 12, 2005
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justroberto wrote: Uh, so don't go to the spurt crag? Didn't you just start climbing two years ago? Give it a couple more decades before you start to wax eloquent about the good ol days. The was I look at it, the climbing experience is like eating a steak. Sport climbing is like going to Outback Steakhouse - it's pretty decent, you don't have to do much to get it, and occasionally you'll have to wait your turn behind a bunch of other people. Often, they'll even be obnoxious people. Trad-daddy climbing is like grilling your own. You pick out the steak you like the looks of, you invest more work and time into prepping it, try to cook it to your liking, and eat with certain satisfaction. Boudering is like McDonands - quick, easy, and leaving you feeling a little hollow inside. Aid climbing would be something more brutal, maybe slaughtering a cow and immediately eating it right off the bone. Do you really want more people crowding up your grill? Trad climbing is more like burning some burgers out back and then trying to taunt the vegans next door.
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curt
Dec 22, 2008, 3:17 AM
Post #30 of 53
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Maddhatter wrote: To a lot of the kids out there today clipping bolts IS rock climbing... Fuckin' n00bs... Curt
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sungam
Dec 22, 2008, 3:27 AM
Post #31 of 53
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curt wrote: Maddhatter wrote: To a lot of the kids out there today clipping bolts IS rock climbing... Fuckin' n00bs... Curt Curt, I'm laughing out loud, seriously. The kind where you don't expect to laugh, and you're laughing before you realise what you're laughing at. AWesome.
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potreroed
Dec 23, 2008, 4:42 PM
Post #32 of 53
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Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
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Aid climbing isn't dead--I'm doing more of it than ever. The difference is that I'm carrying a power drill and leaving behind a great free climb!!
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MikeSaint
Dec 23, 2008, 5:04 PM
Post #33 of 53
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Registered: Sep 19, 2007
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sungam wrote: Ridge lines draw the eyes and the heart. must... climbz.... Yes, Son, You finally see what I am seeing. Now you virtue will be exemply on rock where u can find divinity threw physical extersion joined with prana oversoul.
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sungam
Dec 23, 2008, 5:07 PM
Post #34 of 53
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MikeSaint wrote: sungam wrote: Ridge lines draw the eyes and the heart. must... climbz.... Yes, Son, You finally see what I am seeing. Now you virtue will be exemply on rock where u can find divinity threw physical extersion joined with prana oversoul. "prana oversoul" Classic.
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fresh
Dec 23, 2008, 6:00 PM
Post #35 of 53
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Registered: Aug 7, 2007
Posts: 1199
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knieveltech wrote: <drunk> wtf happened to appreciation for an obviously aesthetic line, regardless of difficulty? WTF is up with recent "generations" of climbers gravitating to contrived/non-obvious lines because they're given a stiff grade? Case in point: sport crags. I've been to several crags where folks spray endlessly about what appears to me to be unobvious (dare I say contrived bordering on eliminate) face climbs when the GLARING FUCKING OBVIOUS dihedral six feet to the left is utterly ignored because it goes at 5.single_digit? </drunk> I think a lot of people like difficult climbs for the aesthetic quality of the climbing itself. complete control of the body. precision. mastery. personally I haven't the patience for it most of the time, but lots of people do.
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mturner
Dec 23, 2008, 6:39 PM
Post #36 of 53
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Registered: Dec 17, 2005
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fresh wrote: knieveltech wrote: <drunk> wtf happened to appreciation for an obviously aesthetic line, regardless of difficulty? WTF is up with recent "generations" of climbers gravitating to contrived/non-obvious lines because they're given a stiff grade? Case in point: sport crags. I've been to several crags where folks spray endlessly about what appears to me to be unobvious (dare I say contrived bordering on eliminate) face climbs when the GLARING FUCKING OBVIOUS dihedral six feet to the left is utterly ignored because it goes at 5.single_digit? </drunk> I think a lot of people like difficult climbs for the aesthetic quality of the climbing itself. complete control of the body. precision. mastery. personally I haven't the patience for it most of the time, but lots of people do. very good point!
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Gmburns2000
Dec 23, 2008, 7:26 PM
Post #37 of 53
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
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mturner wrote: sungam wrote: Maybe they've already done the dihedral? exactly! don't be mad at climbers pushing their limits. Also, I've been on some really aesthetically pleasing routes that climb like shit and some really ugly routes that climb freakin awesome. I'll take the ugly route that climbs awesome any day of the week.
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Maddhatter
Dec 23, 2008, 7:31 PM
Post #38 of 53
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Gmburns2000 wrote: mturner wrote: sungam wrote: Maybe they've already done the dihedral? exactly! don't be mad at climbers pushing their limits. Also, I've been on some really aesthetically pleasing routes that climb like shit and some really ugly routes that climb freakin awesome. I'll take the ugly route that climbs awesome any day of the week. At this place and time in my life I will climb about any chunk of rock I can get my hands on. Or at least try to.
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mar_leclerc
Dec 28, 2008, 2:45 AM
Post #39 of 53
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 156
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you mean ugly lines like this???? butt ugly eh?
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docburner
Dec 28, 2008, 3:18 AM
Post #40 of 53
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Registered: Jul 11, 2005
Posts: 192
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Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something.
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mar_leclerc
Dec 28, 2008, 5:03 AM
Post #41 of 53
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 156
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Its not me.... its from a random website.
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Lazlo
Dec 28, 2008, 9:14 AM
Post #42 of 53
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
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docburner wrote: Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something. I'm confused. What do you mean?
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sungam
Dec 28, 2008, 4:15 PM
Post #43 of 53
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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Lazlo wrote: docburner wrote: Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something. I'm confused. What do you mean? I don' get it either.
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Lazlo
Dec 29, 2008, 12:45 AM
Post #44 of 53
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
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sungam wrote: Lazlo wrote: docburner wrote: Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something. I'm confused. What do you mean? I don' get it either. The masses want to know!
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mar_leclerc
Dec 30, 2008, 6:01 AM
Post #45 of 53
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
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Its pretty obvious.. in the pic I posted the guy is semi-laybacking a nice corner crack. B/c sport climbers generally don't have the best 'jamming' skills he is assuming the guy in the pic is a sport climber.
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Johnny_Fang
Dec 30, 2008, 6:10 AM
Post #46 of 53
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Registered: Nov 19, 2006
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docburner wrote: Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something. that looks like the split pillar on the chief at squamish, one of the most famous pitches in the world. every photo or video i've ever seen shows people climbing it in this way--layback/jams. that's because it is a dihedral. that's how trad climbers get up dihedrals. i guess you don't recognize this pitch because you're a sport climber. or something.
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docburner
Dec 30, 2008, 6:15 AM
Post #47 of 53
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Registered: Jul 11, 2005
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Perfect hands should be jammed rather then lieback, if it was off fingers or something I'd understand
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Lazlo
Dec 30, 2008, 6:22 AM
Post #48 of 53
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Registered: Nov 14, 2007
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Johnny_Fang wrote: docburner wrote: Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something. that looks like the split pillar on the chief at squamish, one of the most famous pitches in the world. every photo or video i've ever seen shows people climbing it in this way--layback/jams. that's because it is a dihedral. that's how trad climbers get up dihedrals. i guess you don't recognize this pitch because you're a sport climber. or something. That was my thought. The only dihedral I've ever jammed had a wicked flare. You couldn't lieback it.
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sungam
Dec 30, 2008, 4:25 PM
Post #49 of 53
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
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docburner wrote: Perfect hands should be jammed rather then lieback In every situation? You don't know what the situation is with that crack, it could flare way in make a jugtastic lieback and a shitty jamb, or it could just lend the body positions to liebacking. The great thing about climbing is that no 2 climbs are the same, each has a slight variation that spices things up and makes you alter your technique/tactics to meet the new challenge. This isn't football, moves aren't planned on a chalkboard.
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MikeSaint
Dec 30, 2008, 6:50 PM
Post #50 of 53
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Registered: Sep 19, 2007
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sungam wrote: This isn't football, moves aren't planned on a chalkboard. Less you're going to employ siege tactics at the local crag. Fixed lines, advanced camps and stations, air support.
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