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Partner angry


Dec 21, 2008, 6:15 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:
angry wrote:
justroberto wrote:
Aid climbing would be something more brutal, maybe slaughtering a cow and immediately eating it right off the bone.

No, aid climbing is more like being fed puree steak in a nursing home. The nice thing about it that you're so old and feeble that it still seems epic.


...Unsure

Sorry man, that's progress. Aid climbing is going the way of ham radios and propeller planes. It'll never fully disappear but it is obsolete.


justroberto


Dec 21, 2008, 6:47 PM
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Re: [angry] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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angry wrote:
justroberto wrote:
Aid climbing would be something more brutal, maybe slaughtering a cow and immediately eating it right off the bone.

No, aid climbing is more like being fed puree steak in a nursing home. The nice thing about it that you're so old and feeble that it still seems epic.
Laugh


tradrenn


Dec 22, 2008, 2:30 AM
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Re: [Maddhatter] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Maddhatter wrote:
It's pretty simple, To each there own.
Not every one has trad gear also. To a lot of the kids out there today clipping bolts IS rock climbing.
The real truth is getting clippy is only one small part of being a well rounded climber. As long as I like the look of the line I couldn't care less how hard it is. As long as it's within what I can climb I climb it.
I also love to solo long easy climbs.

I`m with you 100% on that one.


villageidiot


Dec 22, 2008, 3:07 AM
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Re: [justroberto] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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justroberto wrote:
Uh, so don't go to the spurt crag? Didn't you just start climbing two years ago? Give it a couple more decades before you start to wax eloquent about the good ol days.

The was I look at it, the climbing experience is like eating a steak. Sport climbing is like going to Outback Steakhouse - it's pretty decent, you don't have to do much to get it, and occasionally you'll have to wait your turn behind a bunch of other people. Often, they'll even be obnoxious people.

Trad-daddy climbing is like grilling your own. You pick out the steak you like the looks of, you invest more work and time into prepping it, try to cook it to your liking, and eat with certain satisfaction.

Boudering is like McDonands - quick, easy, and leaving you feeling a little hollow inside.

Aid climbing would be something more brutal, maybe slaughtering a cow and immediately eating it right off the bone.

Do you really want more people crowding up your grill?

Trad climbing is more like burning some burgers out back and then trying to taunt the vegans next door.


curt


Dec 22, 2008, 3:17 AM
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Re: [Maddhatter] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Maddhatter wrote:
To a lot of the kids out there today clipping bolts IS rock climbing...

Fuckin' n00bs...

Curt


sungam


Dec 22, 2008, 3:27 AM
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Re: [curt] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
Maddhatter wrote:
To a lot of the kids out there today clipping bolts IS rock climbing...

Fuckin' n00bs...

Curt
Curt, I'm laughing out loud, seriously. The kind where you don't expect to laugh, and you're laughing before you realise what you're laughing at. AWesome.


potreroed


Dec 23, 2008, 4:42 PM
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Re: [sungam] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Aid climbing isn't dead--I'm doing more of it than ever. The difference is that I'm carrying a power drill and leaving behind a great free climb!!


MikeSaint


Dec 23, 2008, 5:04 PM
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Who said Aceto was Dead? [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Ridge lines draw the eyes and the heart. must... climbz....

Yes, Son, You finally see what I am seeing.

Now you virtue will be exemply on rock where u can find divinity threw physical extersion joined with prana oversoul.


sungam


Dec 23, 2008, 5:07 PM
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Re: [MikeSaint] Who said Aceto was Dead? [In reply to]
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MikeSaint wrote:
sungam wrote:
Ridge lines draw the eyes and the heart. must... climbz....

Yes, Son, You finally see what I am seeing.

Now you virtue will be exemply on rock where u can find divinity threw physical extersion joined with prana oversoul.
"prana oversoul" LaughLaughLaugh
Classic.


fresh


Dec 23, 2008, 6:00 PM
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Re: [knieveltech] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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knieveltech wrote:
<drunk>

wtf happened to appreciation for an obviously aesthetic line, regardless of difficulty? WTF is up with recent "generations" of climbers gravitating to contrived/non-obvious lines because they're given a stiff grade? Case in point: sport crags. I've been to several crags where folks spray endlessly about what appears to me to be unobvious (dare I say contrived bordering on eliminate) face climbs when the GLARING FUCKING OBVIOUS dihedral six feet to the left is utterly ignored because it goes at 5.single_digit?

</drunk>
I think a lot of people like difficult climbs for the aesthetic quality of the climbing itself. complete control of the body. precision. mastery. personally I haven't the patience for it most of the time, but lots of people do.


mturner


Dec 23, 2008, 6:39 PM
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Re: [fresh] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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fresh wrote:
knieveltech wrote:
<drunk>

wtf happened to appreciation for an obviously aesthetic line, regardless of difficulty? WTF is up with recent "generations" of climbers gravitating to contrived/non-obvious lines because they're given a stiff grade? Case in point: sport crags. I've been to several crags where folks spray endlessly about what appears to me to be unobvious (dare I say contrived bordering on eliminate) face climbs when the GLARING FUCKING OBVIOUS dihedral six feet to the left is utterly ignored because it goes at 5.single_digit?

</drunk>
I think a lot of people like difficult climbs for the aesthetic quality of the climbing itself. complete control of the body. precision. mastery. personally I haven't the patience for it most of the time, but lots of people do.

very good point!


Gmburns2000


Dec 23, 2008, 7:26 PM
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Re: [mturner] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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mturner wrote:
sungam wrote:
Maybe they've already done the dihedral?

exactly! don't be mad at climbers pushing their limits.

Also, I've been on some really aesthetically pleasing routes that climb like shit and some really ugly routes that climb freakin awesome.

I'll take the ugly route that climbs awesome any day of the week.


Maddhatter


Dec 23, 2008, 7:31 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
mturner wrote:
sungam wrote:
Maybe they've already done the dihedral?

exactly! don't be mad at climbers pushing their limits.

Also, I've been on some really aesthetically pleasing routes that climb like shit and some really ugly routes that climb freakin awesome.

I'll take the ugly route that climbs awesome any day of the week.

At this place and time in my life I will climb about any chunk of rock I can get my hands on. Or at least try to.


mar_leclerc


Dec 28, 2008, 2:45 AM
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Re: [knieveltech] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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you mean ugly lines like this????



butt ugly eh?Wink


docburner


Dec 28, 2008, 3:18 AM
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Re: [mar_leclerc] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something.


mar_leclerc


Dec 28, 2008, 5:03 AM
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Re: [docburner] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Its not me.... its from a random website.


Lazlo


Dec 28, 2008, 9:14 AM
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Re: [docburner] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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docburner wrote:
Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something.

I'm confused. What do you mean?


sungam


Dec 28, 2008, 4:15 PM
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Re: [Lazlo] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Lazlo wrote:
docburner wrote:
Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something.

I'm confused. What do you mean?
I don' get it either.


Lazlo


Dec 29, 2008, 12:45 AM
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Re: [sungam] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Lazlo wrote:
docburner wrote:
Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something.

I'm confused. What do you mean?
I don' get it either.

The masses want to know!


mar_leclerc


Dec 30, 2008, 6:01 AM
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Re: [Lazlo] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Its pretty obvious.. in the pic I posted the guy is semi-laybacking a nice corner crack. B/c sport climbers generally don't have the best 'jamming' skills he is assuming the guy in the pic is a sport climber.


Johnny_Fang


Dec 30, 2008, 6:10 AM
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Re: [docburner] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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docburner wrote:
Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something.

that looks like the split pillar on the chief at squamish, one of the most famous pitches in the world. every photo or video i've ever seen shows people climbing it in this way--layback/jams. that's because it is a dihedral. that's how trad climbers get up dihedrals.

i guess you don't recognize this pitch because you're a sport climber. or something.


docburner


Dec 30, 2008, 6:15 AM
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Re: [Johnny_Fang] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Perfect hands should be jammed rather then lieback, if it was off fingers or something I'd understand


Lazlo


Dec 30, 2008, 6:22 AM
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Re: [Johnny_Fang] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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Johnny_Fang wrote:
docburner wrote:
Why are you laybacking that nice looking crack? You must be a sport climber or something.

that looks like the split pillar on the chief at squamish, one of the most famous pitches in the world. every photo or video i've ever seen shows people climbing it in this way--layback/jams. that's because it is a dihedral. that's how trad climbers get up dihedrals.

i guess you don't recognize this pitch because you're a sport climber. or something.

That was my thought.

The only dihedral I've ever jammed had a wicked flare. You couldn't lieback it.


sungam


Dec 30, 2008, 4:25 PM
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Re: [docburner] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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docburner wrote:
Perfect hands should be jammed rather then lieback
In every situation? You don't know what the situation is with that crack, it could flare way in make a jugtastic lieback and a shitty jamb, or it could just lend the body positions to liebacking.
The great thing about climbing is that no 2 climbs are the same, each has a slight variation that spices things up and makes you alter your technique/tactics to meet the new challenge.
This isn't football, moves aren't planned on a chalkboard.


MikeSaint


Dec 30, 2008, 6:50 PM
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Re: [sungam] Difficulty for difficulty's sake [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
This isn't football, moves aren't planned on a chalkboard.

Less you're going to employ siege tactics at the local crag. Fixed lines, advanced camps and stations, air support.

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