|
prowsolo
Jan 30, 2009, 5:22 PM
Post #1 of 15
(8972 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 22, 2003
Posts: 17
|
Anyone else aid solo with a stichplate with a spring and a ascender used as the breakhand.
Charles Cole used this method on Space and Heart of Darkness.
Please Advise
Juan
|
|
|
|
|
altelis
Jan 30, 2009, 5:44 PM
Post #2 of 15
(8955 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
|
uh. not quite sure if that "dong, dong" echoey sound i hear is the sound of your massive steel balls knocking against each other as you walk or the sound of your only two brain cells colliding in your empty head.
seriously. either is impressive (in its own way...)
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Jan 30, 2009, 8:00 PM
Post #3 of 15
(8911 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
No, ascenders don't damage the rope unless you happen to fall on them. They do wear the rope, but not enough to be a safety issue.
|
|
|
|
|
skiclimb
Jan 30, 2009, 8:01 PM
Post #4 of 15
(8910 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
|
Using ascenders to stop lead falls (especially buffered by a belay device such as the stich plate) may be effective most of the time.
However when it isn't effective the results are somewhat annoying to rescue/cleanup personel.
(This post was edited by skiclimb on Jan 30, 2009, 8:04 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Jan 30, 2009, 8:03 PM
Post #5 of 15
(8903 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
skiclimb wrote: Using ascenders to stop lead falls may be effective most of the time. However when it isn't effective the results are somewhat annoying to rescue/cleanup personel.
okay, What the fuck?
|
|
|
|
|
milesenoell
Jan 30, 2009, 8:49 PM
Post #6 of 15
(8884 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2006
Posts: 1156
|
Not to imply that it is like aid soloing, but I have done lots of TR soloing using an ascender, and can attest that little TR falls are enough to make your rope prematurely fuzzy but just in little tufts where the teeth bite the sheath. I've examined my rope pretty carefully and never seen any real damage that concerned me. I've also discussed it with others that use similar set-ups and come to feel very comfortable with it, with the one caveat : the ascenders weren't really designed for this, and while it seems plenty safe to TR solo like this, the teeth may be degrading the load strands in ways that can't be seen through the sheath, so consider keeping your TR solo rope seperate from your lead rope. I've considered swithching to a Cinch for the smooth cams just to get rid of this concern.
|
|
|
|
|
ptlong
Jan 30, 2009, 9:40 PM
Post #7 of 15
(8867 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2007
Posts: 418
|
Back of the envelope calculation....
Worst case you whip and the force on you is 10kN. A typical belay device steps this down by a factor of 5 or more. So the jumar is only looking at 2kN. Petzl says theirs is okay up to 3.3kN. At 4.6kN the sheath might rupture, but not the core.
...says you're BOMBER!
|
|
|
|
|
coastal_climber
Jan 30, 2009, 9:48 PM
Post #8 of 15
(8861 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 17, 2006
Posts: 2542
|
Oh, TR solo. Gotcha.
|
|
|
|
|
moof
Jan 31, 2009, 4:25 AM
Post #9 of 15
(8822 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400
|
Back under your bridge you troll!
|
|
|
|
|
graniteboy
Feb 2, 2009, 9:36 PM
Post #10 of 15
(8744 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
|
Yeah, alot of us USED to solo like that.....and, irrespective of Altelis' usual predictable snark, it actually works. I've taken 30 footers on such a funky system...back when SLCDs were a newfangled deal....and rugby shirts were cool.
But why would you wanna go back to 1970s/early 80s methods when we have such better options now? Unless you're just trolling....
|
|
|
|
|
jmvc
Feb 4, 2009, 9:56 AM
Post #11 of 15
(8703 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2007
Posts: 647
|
Wouldn't the brake hand ascender make it very difficult to feed rope?
The system sounds like it would stop a fall, but as previously mentioned, I believe that there are better options out there.
|
|
|
|
|
graniteboy
Feb 4, 2009, 10:06 PM
Post #12 of 15
(8657 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
|
Also, please remember that whoever you are asking this question, Charles Cole's cajones and experience level and climbing skill in the 1970s were 10 times more than yours are now.
Get a real solo belay device. Better yet, a partner...not the silent type. How much is your life worth?
|
|
|
|
|
altelis
Feb 5, 2009, 1:17 AM
Post #13 of 15
(8646 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
|
not that your comment really bothered me- but outa simple curiosity, how is this that much different than my comment?
|
|
|
|
|
graniteboy
Feb 5, 2009, 1:26 AM
Post #14 of 15
(8642 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 1, 2001
Posts: 1092
|
1) Charlie Cole really was a badass, and anyone having to ask about that belay method is obviously not one
2)I never made any statements suggesting that the OP was stupid
3) talk to the hand
|
|
|
|
|
altelis
Feb 5, 2009, 1:30 AM
Post #15 of 15
(8637 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 2168
|
wmapdfofjn ghasf!
(sorry, i got to close to the hand.....things got a little jumbled.....)
|
|
|
|
|
|
